I'm still bad with sharpening...but why?

[cudgee]

Ken, just a question. Are the surfaces of your Grandfathers strop smooth or are they the the rougher untreated surfaces, or one of each. ???

Smooth on both sides. They are identical.

Ken

Thanks mate, much appreciated, going to make mine on your grandfathers design over the next few days.

[cudgee]

Okay folks, since you asked here are some pictures of the leather “strop” piece made from an old conveyor belt. I took a picture of the edge also, hope you can see how it is laminated from multiple thin pieces of leather. It’s about 3/8ths of an inch thick total. I don’t use any compound with it, but it does have some kind of natural “oil” that comes to the surface with use. It doesn’t puddle there but you can see moisture on the surface as you’re stropping. Maybe from years of use either in the mine (I suspect they used some kind of treatment to keep it limber) or from sharpening. I’ve had it since my grandfather’s passing, in 1968. The Case 6318 is for size perspective.

02B1B35D-CF7B-4605-8069-85440996A472.jpeg
4EC6CBFD-8489-490C-A3BE-A6FA453F243B.jpeg

Also included a picture of some other miscellaneous sharpening pieces that live in the same bag with the leather piece. The black one is stamped “Buck” on the chromed metal pocket clip, the knurled piece can be turned/loosened to allow the rod to be extended or retracted into the handle. The other smaller one is some kind of hardened steel with a striated surface. Sort of a small version of a chef’s steel.

Ken

Thought you may be interested in this. Finished it last night and have had it clamped between wood to make sure it is completely flat. Have a large Case stockman and a 31/2 inch boys knife to give some size perspective, a bit longer than your grandfathers, but about the same width, and is 3/8 of an inch thick, but only 2 pieces glued together. Just working out what leather treatment apply before i start using it. Have a good Independence Day whatever you have planned.

[Mumbleypeg]

Looks like a good job cudgee, hope it works well for you.

Ken

[cudgee]

I don't know how much they cost over there or the availability of spare rods...

$20 at Knife Center. Spare rods can be found, I believe without much difficulty. I'll shoot you a message when mine arrives.

I also have ceramic stones and rods (Case Moonstone for example), and diamond plate “stones”. They don’t need oil. And a couple of thick pieces of leather, which I seldom use although they work great if you want a shaving edge. One of them belonged to my grandfather and is a piece from an old leather conveyor belt - it’s probably at least 100 years old.

Ditto what Cudgee said: I'd love to see that strop! And you are, of course, correct about the coarser stone being more absorbent.

I'll keep at it. Thanks again for the help, y'all!

How has the Lansky been, has it been any help to you getting an edge. Was doing some packing and sorting out what i would need and not pack away. Keeping my Turnbox sharpeners out, and thought of you and reminded me to see how you're going with your sharpener.

[Dan In MI]

Keeping my Turnbox sharpeners out, and thought of you and reminded me to see how you're going with your sharpener.

Thanks for touching base! I have gotten a little practice in here and there. Lately my test subject has been a 77OT with an altered master blade. I'm pretty sure Lansky has sone rods available that are more coarse than those supplied with the Turnbox, and those might help. The 77OT hasn't improved as rapidly as I'd like, but the improvement is there.

I hope your move is going okay. Moving is always a chore!

[cudgee]

Keeping my Turnbox sharpeners out, and thought of you and reminded me to see how you're going with your sharpener.

Thanks for touching base! I have gotten a little practice in here and there. Lately my test subject has been a 77OT with an altered master blade. I'm pretty sure Lansky has sone rods available that are more coarse than those supplied with the Turnbox, and those might help. The 77OT hasn't improved as rapidly as I'd like, but the improvement is there.

I hope your move is going okay. Moving is always a chore!

Get yourself a set of their diamond rods, they are good for some reprofile jobs, but great for bringing a dull bevel back to sharp, then finish on the 2 ceramic rods. The diamond rods sound exactly like what you need, then you will always have them. The only trick is light pressure, too much pressure will ruin the cutting power and they will wear out too quickly, but they do work and are worth having. There are some other things i can help you with, but worry about that later.

[Dan In MI]

I'll get the diamond rods ASAP!

[cudgee]

I'll get the diamond rods ASAP!

Let me know when you get them, there is a little trick you can use.

[1967redrider]

Has anyone tried this?-

[OLDE CUTLER]

My nominee for the "Worst Sharpening Job Ever" is on this Camillus 883 that I recently picked up for $3. 60 grit bench grinder job?

[Lansky1]

Welcome to the club Dan. I can get a fair edge using my set of stones but somewhere along the way I always seem to screw up the angle and the knife ends up no sharper than when I started. Been using a Lansky turnbox with good results if the edge is already set on the blade. Recently bought a Lansky system to set the bevel on a couple of unsharpened blades and it seems to work very well. Still learning how to use it though.

I concur - all I can say to folks struggling with sharpening is try a Lansky - they're cheap and practically foolproof. THe basic 3 stone set with the accessory base for safety is all you need to get a better than factory edge.

[Colonel26]

Okay folks, since you asked here are some pictures of the leather “strop” piece made from an old conveyor belt. I took a picture of the edge also, hope you can see how it is laminated from multiple thin pieces of leather. It’s about 3/8ths of an inch thick total. I don’t use any compound with it, but it does have some kind of natural “oil” that comes to the surface with use. It doesn’t puddle there but you can see moisture on the surface as you’re stropping. Maybe from years of use either in the mine (I suspect they used some kind of treatment to keep it limber) or from sharpening. I’ve had it since my grandfather’s passing, in 1968. The Case 6318 is for size perspective.

02B1B35D-CF7B-4605-8069-85440996A472.jpeg
4EC6CBFD-8489-490C-A3BE-A6FA453F243B.jpeg

Also included a picture of some other miscellaneous sharpening pieces that live in the same bag with the leather piece. The black one is stamped “Buck” on the chromed metal pocket clip, the knurled piece can be turned/loosened to allow the rod to be extended or retracted into the handle. The other smaller one is some kind of hardened steel with a striated surface. Sort of a small version of a chef’s steel.

Ken

Thought you may be interested in this. Finished it last night and have had it clamped between wood to make sure it is completely flat. Have a large Case stockman and a 31/2 inch boys knife to give some size perspective, a bit longer than your grandfathers, but about the same width, and is 3/8 of an inch thick, but only 2 pieces glued together. Just working out what leather treatment apply before i start using it. Have a good Independence Day whatever you have planned.

IMG_20220704_084733.jpg
IMG_20220704_084744.jpg

Your leather stropping set up is much fancier than mine. I just have an old leather belt that I hold one end, step on the other end, and strop. Your’s is NICE!

[Colonel26]

Like some of the others here on the board, I much prefer free hand sharpening. But since sharpening rods were mentioned, I thought I’d show three of my “secrete weapons”. I actually only use one of them, but it’s one of my favorite sharpening tools.

Here are my three old F. Dick sharpening steels. Two are completely slick, and the one I use barely, and I mean barely has some texture to it. As long as my edge is good, this keeps everything SHARP, and is great for removing burrs after sharpening.

[Oledadsknives]

Okay folks, since you asked here are some pictures of the leather “strop” piece made from an old conveyor belt. I took a picture of the edge also, hope you can see how it is laminated from multiple thin pieces of leather. It’s about 3/8ths of an inch thick total. I don’t use any compound with it, but it does have some kind of natural “oil” that comes to the surface with use. It doesn’t puddle there but you can see moisture on the surface as you’re stropping. Maybe from years of use either in the mine (I suspect they used some kind of treatment to keep it limber) or from sharpening. I’ve had it since my grandfather’s passing, in 1968. The Case 6318 is for size perspective.

02B1B35D-CF7B-4605-8069-85440996A472.jpeg
4EC6CBFD-8489-490C-A3BE-A6FA453F243B.jpeg

Also included a picture of some other miscellaneous sharpening pieces that live in the same bag with the leather piece. The black one is stamped “Buck” on the chromed metal pocket clip, the knurled piece can be turned/loosened to allow the rod to be extended or retracted into the handle. The other smaller one is some kind of hardened steel with a striated surface. Sort of a small version of a chef’s steel.

Ken

Thought you may be interested in this. Finished it last night and have had it clamped between wood to make sure it is completely flat. Have a large Case stockman and a 31/2 inch boys knife to give some size perspective, a bit longer than your grandfathers, but about the same width, and is 3/8 of an inch thick, but only 2 pieces glued together. Just working out what leather treatment apply before i start using it. Have a good Independence Day whatever you have planned.

IMG_20220704_084733.jpg
IMG_20220704_084744.jpg

Your leather stropping set up is much fancier than mine. I just have an old leather belt that I hold one end, step on the other end, and strop. Your’s is NICE!

That’s exactly what I do colonel, hold one end step on the other and strop. Make a sharp knife sharper for sure!

[Dan In MI]

My "strops" are pieces of an old belt that I intend to mount on a plank someday. Now I'm starting to wonder if I would have been better off leaving that belt intact?

[Mumbleypeg]

Unless for some reason you’re compelled to obtain a shaving-sharp edge I wouldn’t spend the time and effort. All you get from it is an edge more difficult to maintain and some satisfaction from doing it. Which in my case became boring once I proved to myself I could accomplish it. A sharp, slightly toothy edge will cut longer and just as well, unless maybe you’re whittling, or planning to shave with the knife (which I also have tried, and don’t recommend ). To get that shaving edge you’re in essence using the leather, ceramic, etc to polish the edge, which removes the “toothiness” left by sharpening. Strops were made for razors.

I still occasionally put a shaving edge on a knife blade if I’m bored, like sitting in camp watching the campfire and “B.S.ing”. In which case I’ll typically use whatever is at hand to do it, like the leather upper of my boot, a piece of newsprint, or even the heel of my hand. Haven’t used a “strop” in years. IMHO on a knife blade it’s time and effort spent for little if any gain.

Ken

[Oledadsknives]

My "strops" are pieces of an old belt that I intend to mount on a plank someday. Now I'm starting to wonder if I would have been better off leaving that belt intact?

Dan, if you get your strop set up believe me you will get a feeling of accomplishment if you strop a sharp edge and then shave a little hair off your arm with it!!

Jimbo

[catspa]

Here are my three old F. Dick sharpening steels. Two are completely slick, and the one I use barely, and I mean barely has some texture to it. As long as my edge is good, this keeps everything SHARP, and is great for removing burrs after sharpening.

F0DDF9BA-40A6-4280-AAE5-702A52FE66ED.jpeg

You bet Colonel, aren’t those between-the-wars smooth Dicks something else? I love mine. Some of them have slight pitting and flaws, so I use them with a trailing stroke.

I read somewhere that F. Dick made burnishing steels on contract for Henckels in some timeframes. I don’t have any Henckels steels to compare though.

Parker

[Colonel26]

Here are my three old F. Dick sharpening steels. Two are completely slick, and the one I use barely, and I mean barely has some texture to it. As long as my edge is good, this keeps everything SHARP, and is great for removing burrs after sharpening.

F0DDF9BA-40A6-4280-AAE5-702A52FE66ED.jpeg

You bet Colonel, aren’t those between-the-wars smooth Dicks something else? I love mine. Some of them have slight pitting and flaws, so I use them with a trailing stroke.

I read somewhere that F. Dick made burnishing steels on contract for Henckels in some timeframes. I don’t have any Henckels steels to compare though.

Parker

They're most awesome in my opinion. I had no idea they were that old, I know nothing about dating them. I bought the one that's just barely got any texture at a junk type auction several years ago for a whole $11 I think. I fell in love with it right then.

The slicks I got from right here on aapk. Muskrat man had refurbished them and had them for sale. I though the price was good enough I bought them both.

It wouldn't surprise me if F. Dick made the steels and slicks for Henckles.

[FRJ]

If you research the F. Dick steels you can get a relative time frame on age by the direction of the arrow on the shank.

I think I have at least two. Mine are not early steels.

They were/are apparently top of the line.

[Colonel26]

If you research the F. Dick steels you can get a relative time frame on age by the direction of the arrow on the shank.

I think I have at least two. Mine are not early steels.

They were/are apparently top of the line.

Thank you for that information. I’ve been well pleased with mine for sure.

[Colonel26]

Unless for some reason you’re compelled to obtain a shaving-sharp edge I wouldn’t spend the time and effort. All you get from it is an edge more difficult to maintain and some satisfaction from doing it. Which in my case became boring once I proved to myself I could accomplish it. A sharp, slightly toothy edge will cut longer and just as well, unless maybe you’re whittling, or planning to shave with the knife (which I also have tried, and don’t recommend ). To get that shaving edge you’re in essence using the leather, ceramic, etc to polish the edge, which removes the “toothiness” left by sharpening. Strops were made for razors.

I still occasionally put a shaving edge on a knife blade if I’m bored, like sitting in camp watching the campfire and “B.S.ing”. In which case I’ll typically use whatever is at hand to do it, like the leather upper of my boot, a piece of newsprint, or even the heel of my hand. Haven’t used a “strop” in years. IMHO on a knife blade it’s time and effort spent for little if any gain.

Ken

I think I’ve agreed with you on this topic once before, but just in case, I agree. Toothy is my preference. Case in point I usually use one of my pocket knives to peel and slice tomatoes since my wife cannot stand to have a good kitchen knife or to not throw it in the sink or dishwasher. A highly polished edge may shave hair, but it’ll just smush a tomato.

I do occasionally strop a knife. I use the leather, no compound, and typically the rough side. But I only use it or the steel to remove the burr after sharpening or to freshen up a blade I’ve used and is on the dull side.

My favorite way to get the toothy edge I, and you, prefer is to set a good long bevel with a coarse stone or 400 grit diamond hone. Then a lick or two on a medium if using a natural stone, then strop or most of the time a steel to remove the burr. If using the 400 grit diamond hone I'll go straight from it to strop or steel.

I rarely use a fine stone as it takes all the tooth out.

[Colonel26]

My nominee for the "Worst Sharpening Job Ever" is on this Camillus 883 that I recently picked up for $3. 60 grit bench grinder job?
IMG_4866.JPG
IMG_4867.JPG

Looks like something my daddy would do.

[cudgee]

Unless for some reason you’re compelled to obtain a shaving-sharp edge I wouldn’t spend the time and effort. All you get from it is an edge more difficult to maintain and some satisfaction from doing it. Which in my case became boring once I proved to myself I could accomplish it. A sharp, slightly toothy edge will cut longer and just as well, unless maybe you’re whittling, or planning to shave with the knife (which I also have tried, and don’t recommend ). To get that shaving edge you’re in essence using the leather, ceramic, etc to polish the edge, which removes the “toothiness” left by sharpening. Strops were made for razors.

I still occasionally put a shaving edge on a knife blade if I’m bored, like sitting in camp watching the campfire and “B.S.ing”. In which case I’ll typically use whatever is at hand to do it, like the leather upper of my boot, a piece of newsprint, or even the heel of my hand. Haven’t used a “strop” in years. IMHO on a knife blade it’s time and effort spent for little if any gain.

Ken

I think I’ve agreed with you on this topic once before, but just in case, I agree. Toothy is my preference. Case in point I usually use one of my pocket knives to peel and slice tomatoes since my wife cannot stand to have a good kitchen knife or to not throw it in the sink or dishwasher. A highly polished edge may shave hair, but it’ll just smush a tomato.

I do occasionally strop a knife. I use the leather, no compound, and typically the rough side. But I only use it or the steel to remove the burr after sharpening or to freshen up a blade I’ve used and is on the dull side.

My favorite way to get the toothy edge I, and you, prefer is to set a good long bevel with a coarse stone or 400 grit diamond hone. Then a lick or two on a medium if using a natural stone, then strop or most of the time a steel to remove the burr. If using the 400 grit diamond hone I'll go straight from it to strop or steel.

I rarely use a fine stone as it takes all the tooth out.

Colonel, sounds like you have it all covered. A toothy edge is perfect for an EDC, and you can get a sharp toothy edge on a 240-600 grit stone. And a few strops every now and then will keep the edge in great working order.

[fergusontd]

I still use my Lansky pullthru much to the disdain of the purists posting on here. It gives me a good serviceable edge that I can slice paper with ease. I've tried using stones but can't get the edge I want. I don't need shaving sharp just a good decent edge. ftd