Oil vs Water

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kingknight
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Oil vs Water

Postby kingknight » Sun Feb 03, 2019 1:07 am

Curious about your preferences for oil or water as a lubricant. Personally I prefer diamond and wet stones which require water. I find water is an easier clean up than oil. In your opinion which is the better vehicle for moving swarf?
"Every normal man must be tempted at times, to spit on his hands, hoist the black flag, and begin slitting throats."
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FRJ
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Re: Oil vs Water

Postby FRJ » Sun Feb 03, 2019 3:13 am

I have been sharpening on stones of various kinds for over fifty years. I stopped using oil early on.
I could not see the need for a lubricating medium in the process of removing metal from the edge of a blade.
It serves no productive purpose that I can see. I don't want the blade to glide across the stone.
I want the stone to abrade the blade edge. And it will do that when using oil. We all know that.
But without the oil and with the use of water I think the process occurs much more efficiently.
As for removing swarf, I am quick to rid the stone of that too. It can literally be splashed away with water.
Having the swarf residue rolling under the cutting edge and impeding the metal removal process is something
I also like to avoid. Clean stone, clean edge, clean fast cut.
I use water stones most of the time but I have many other kinds of stones of various grits and sizes that I am quite fond of using and will often reach for them.
Joe

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Mumbleypeg
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Re: Oil vs Water

Postby Mumbleypeg » Sun Feb 03, 2019 3:18 am

I’ve also used several kinds of stones. My grandfather taught me how to freehand sharpen when I was about 10 or 12 years old, using both oil and water stones. I haven’t noticed any discernible difference in the results from using either oil or water, but I prefer water for the reasons already mentioned.

Ken
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Doc B
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Re: Oil vs Water

Postby Doc B » Sun Feb 03, 2019 12:16 pm

I can't argue, too much, with the use of water. Guess I've just gotten used to oil on diamond. I know most will probably say you don't need oil on diamond. Mineral oil is cheap. Anyway...I like the knife to slide along and I guess I've just developed a "feel". One advantage to oil...is that (depending on the metal of the knife) is I don't have to worry about residual water in the tang area, or under scales and flushing with WD 40. The vast majority of time, my knives only need a couple of swipes on a 600 or 1000 grit diamond stone, to bring an edge back...so it's quicker to not have to lube up an old traditional knife and worry about the water aspect.
But to the primary point of your question...probably the quick water wash, does get rid of the swarf faster.
One thing for sure...is, although principles are the same...like fingerprints...I think everyone develops their own unique methods. Just read the sharpening forum and you'll get a million ways to do it. I'll never argue with success!
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kingknight
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Re: Oil vs Water

Postby kingknight » Sun Feb 03, 2019 3:36 pm

One thing for sure...is, although principles are the same...like fingerprints...I think everyone develops their own unique methods. Just read the sharpening forum and you'll get a million ways to do it. I'll never argue with success!


One of the reasons I enjoy this forum so much is being able to draw on the knowledge and experience of others, especially the wisdom that goes back generations.
"Every normal man must be tempted at times, to spit on his hands, hoist the black flag, and begin slitting throats."
H L Mencken

mrwatch
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Re: Oil vs Water

Postby mrwatch » Sun Feb 03, 2019 5:38 pm

I never gave Norton oil stones any thought until I went to watchmakers school. The instructor/teacher on the first day sat us at jewelers lathes. He gave each of us a new lathe tool. Every thing was done free hand. This tool is dull, he took a stone and held the end to the stone and slightly moved it back and forth. That's how you sharpen it and walked away. By the end of the day my finger tip was hurting. In the evening I went over to the micro machine tech. class room and borrowed at jig. I learned about lubes and when to put the stone into the ultrasonic cleaner to get the grit out of it. He would send back my lathe project say the corner was rounded. Finally put the second loop on it and seen it was and that my tool really was not sharp. Passed three project and a balance staff. Last was a winding stem, all from blue prints. He came over to show me how to tun my project around in the collet but I had all ready finished it as it was. He said my tool must have been really sharp! Didn't have to thread it. Speaking of, you wouldn't believe some of the tap and dies and set for watch screws.
So in short yes a dry stone is not a good idea.
Bob

richard bissell
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Re: Oil vs Water

Postby richard bissell » Mon Sep 02, 2019 7:05 pm

A very long time ago an edition of Pop. Science or Pop. Mechanics magazine had an article about sharpening in which they showed micro-photographs of sharpened tools. The pics showing the best edges were of blades which were repeatedly done with stones washed alot with water consistency liquids , which process got rid of the metal particles more effectively than other thicker fluid such as oil.'; unfortunately, some stones are sold with oil already in them...thank you...

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Dinadan
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Re: Oil vs Water

Postby Dinadan » Mon Sep 02, 2019 9:47 pm

I have not used a lot of different kinds of stones over the past fifty years, so my knowledge is kind of narrow.

I mostly use soft Arkansas stones. For my pocket stone I often use beer for a lubricant, since that is what I usually have available out on the back porch. It works just fine. So does tea (unsweetened). Other than color unsweetened tea is just water.

For my bigger Arkansas stones that I use in the kitchen I use bacon lard. I strain it through a coffee filter and store it in spice jar. I think it is the best lubricant for oil stones since it is semi solid, easy to handle, free if you eat bacon, and works good.
Mel


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