Work Sharp Belt Sharpener

[Sharpnshinyknives]

I recently bought a Work Sharp belt sharpener system. I wish I had gone for the Ken Onion version, but this one is great. I have arthritis in my right shoulder and sharpening on a stone gets to be a painful process. I have always had trouble sharpening stainless steel to my satisfaction too. But now with this Work Sharp system, I have made all the knives in the house sharp enough to shave hair and love it, love it, love it. One thing that I find deeply satisfying is pulling a knife out of a drawer and having it this sharp.
My only problem so far is that I have taken the tip off of a couple of knives and for the life of me, I can’t figure out why? Only on a couple of them that were particularly long. I wonder if I am pointing the tip into the belt as I follow the contour of the blade? Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks

[Madmarco]

I know how much you like that sharpener Mark, since that's what you said the day you got it. Wish I could help with the tip issue, but as I told you, I know absolutely nothing bout sharpening knives, but I'm sure some of the pros on this forum will come to your aid! Good luck!

[Railsplitter]

Mark, I know what I want to recommend but it's difficult to describe without a visual demonstration. If you can make any sense of this, try it and see if it helps.

Assuming you are holding the blade vertically, instead of following the contour of the blade, when you reach the belly near the tip start gradually moving your hand sideways. If you are sharpening the left side of the blade move your hand to the right. If you are sharpening the right side of the blade move your hand to the left.

The closer you get to the tip, the farther you move your hand. When you get real close to the tip reduce pressure. By the time the tip is against the belt it should be just barely making contact.

Keep the blade at the same angle during the entire process. For example, if you started out at the heel with the blade straight up and down keep the blade straight up and down. Don't tilt it. Just move your hand sideways. Do this gradually from where the belly begins all the way to the tip.

This takes a little practice but you'll get it if you can make any sense of what I wrote.

[rea1eye]

I do not own this sander but I know ruining the tip is a common problem.
Seems to me one time I read the instruction sheet when I was in a sports store
and it mentioned the problem and how to avoid it.

I considered buying one a few years back. I believe YouTube also
Identified the problem and gave some hints.

Let us know how this turns out.

Bob

[Sharpnshinyknives]

Thanks Rick and Bob. It does make sense Rick and I will try that technique.
I always forget to check for a You Tube video. I am seldom on there and forget it exists, thanks Bob.

[edge213]

Bob is correct. In the instructions it mentions this problem and how to avoid it.
I don't remember exactly what it was. I think it said to release the trigger as you get close to the tip.
I will look for my instruction booklet and post the information. That is if I find the instructions.

[Doc B]

Mark, I too like the WS, especially if I am having a hard time achieving an edge. I watched a different video...but, here is one that sort of mentions the same method: Stop the machine,with the tip in the middle of the belt. It's about 2:30, on the video. I make an effort to minimize tip exposure and finish it on a stone, if it's not satisfactory. Usually, after getting an edge...I can keep my knives sharp, with stropping, or light stone use. I rarely go back to the WS...unless I'm having problems getting the edge back. I really like it. The only thing I haven't had too much luck with is stropping on the leather belt. For me...it seems I get a better final edge by hand stropping.

[OLDE CUTLER]

The issue with the tip removal is probably caused by making a TINY mistake and how fast they remove metal. I will stick to my Lansky.

[Sharpnshinyknives]

The video is helpful. I am doing all the steps right, I think these longer kitchen knives are just harder to keep perfectly flat against the belt. Just a slight movement in or out and it gets amplified on the tip.
I agree about using a Lansky, and I have one, but it’s just too time consuming and painful with my arthritis.

[Stanwade]

Mark, I know what I want to recommend but it's difficult to describe without a visual demonstration. If you can make any sense of this, try it and see if it helps.

Assuming you are holding the blade vertically, instead of following the contour of the blade, when you reach the belly near the tip start gradually moving your hand sideways. If you are sharpening the left side of the blade move your hand to the right. If you are sharpening the right side of the blade move your hand to the left.

The closer you get to the tip, the farther you move your hand. When you get real close to the tip reduce pressure. By the time the tip is against the belt it should be just barely making contact.

Keep the blade at the same angle during the entire process. For example, if you started out at the heel with the blade straight up and down keep the blade straight up and down. Don't tilt it. Just move your hand sideways. Do this gradually from where the belly begins all the way to the tip.

This takes a little practice but you'll get it if you can make any sense of what I wrote.

Great advice 👍🤝! My uncle and myself recently purchased a Ken Onion edition Work Sharp...I absolutely love it.. most knives I have sharpened for myself and for friends just needed a little touch up so I haven't had to use the more aggressive belts at all yet...I still use my Lansky Turnbox with the ceramic hone sticks to finish everything and for maintenance... I've had really good results using the last three belt grits---fine, very fine then the honing belt before I hit them on the Lansky.. after reading the instructions when I bought it I've personally come to find out what the instructions suggest is way too many passes so I just go by feel and touch... I'm getting better at it every time I use it and I really enjoy sharpening knives for friends and family... Most pocket knives or kitchen knives I can sharpen in 5 to 10 minutes from start to finish.. I've learned to only use medium speed or less.. I've been using the 25 degree setting for pocket knives, 20 degree for kitchen knives which both match the options on the Turn Box..

[Sharpnshinyknives]

Ryan, Glad you brought this thread back up. Also glad you picked one up. I have thought about moving up to the Ken Onion version with the wider belts and more angle options. I did just buy 24 new belts for the one I have. Trying some different grits than the ones that came with it. Mostly finer grits to really put a fine edge on some blades.
One thing I found out the hard way, and maybe the better version wouldn’t have this issue, is that thumb studs present a real problem if the studs come out away from the bolsters very far. You just can’t get the entire cutting surface to the belts and your bevel is now off. Trust me you don’t want to take the guides off to fix the problem.
I agree with you about how many passes are needed. You don’t want to use the coarse grits on a blade as many times as they suggest. This thing really takes off metal. I was surprised on a really old knife I have how much more blade loss I had after I took just one pass on the coarser grits. Best to start out with less than you think and work up and back down.

[Stanwade]

Ryan, Glad you brought this thread back up. Also glad you picked one up. I have thought about moving up to the Ken Onion version with the wider belts and more angle options. I did just buy 24 new belts for the one I have. Trying some different grits than the ones that came with it. Mostly finer grits to really put a fine edge on some blades.
One thing I found out the hard way, and maybe the better version wouldn’t have this issue, is that thumb studs present a real problem if the studs come out away from the bolsters very far. You just can’t get the entire cutting surface to the belts and your bevel is now off. Trust me you don’t want to take the guides off to fix the problem.
I agree with you about how many passes are needed. You don’t want to use the coarse grits on a blade as many times as they suggest. This thing really takes off metal. I was surprised on a really old knife I have how much more blade loss I had after I took just one pass on the coarser grits. Best to start out with less than you think and work up and back down.

Mark-- on the Ken Onion edition the front horizontal blade rest/guide pivots out of the way for pocket knives. Does the regular edition do this? I always pivot it out of the way when sharpening pocket knives for the reasons you stated above. I don't think I would use a belt on a "valuable" or a "collectible" knife coarser than the very fine or honing belt.
Here is a picture of the blade rest on ours (screen shot from the internet). You pull out on it and it pivots to the vertical position if needed (It's spring loaded). You have to get a feel for it as the blade you're sharpening will just sit on the back horizontal blade guide/rest. After a few tries you'll get the feel for it.

[Stanwade]

https://www.rockler.com/work-sharp-ws30 ... pcQAvD_BwE

I just come across this model while looking for some belts for ours. What a neat tool sharpener! I wouldn't need this version now, but if I were still into woodworking, home building etc.. I would definitely buy one...

[Sharpnshinyknives]

Ryan, it does not have a guide that pivots. I wish I had known before I bought the difference. That tool sharpener does look pretty nice!