Loosing snap when re-handling slip joints

[RonP]

I have been re-handling quite a few mostly case trappers by using epoxy on scales not pins I have had mixed results. Scales, bolsters turn out great look fantastic my issue is when closing the knife some of them will loose there snap when closing sort of hang open. I have cleaned them real well blew out with air oiled the front pin real well and will still not snap closed. I have been having to insert razor blade or similar item in front pin to slightly open the bolster which works but it also makes the front pin show so you have to work front bolster to hide pin. Trying to figure out what I am doing wrong to make them loose the snap I thought it might be heat from buffing but while problem solving it is happening with just the bolster glued on before I grind or buff any of the knife. The crazy part is some do it and some don't can't figure out what I am doing to cause this. Any ideas on what I might could change to help with keeping the snap while closing?

[OLDE CUTLER]

Could be glue oozing thru pin holes and getting inside knife?

[Meridian_Mike]

Could be glue oozing thru pin holes and getting inside knife?

That would be my guess too...

AND.... you glue bolsters on????

WAY too much glueing.... the pins would do a much better job of holding the pieces on a knive.

[Jeffinn]

If your new handle pieces aren’t perfectly flat you could be distorting the liners when putting the new scales on. I’m assuming that you’re installing the handles on an assembled knife (not disassembling the knife to install the handles).
If you are disassembling the knife, then you need to use a slackener when reassembling the knife to keep a small bit of clearance between the blade and liners. Opinions vary but somewhere between .003” and .008” gets the job done depending on the knife.
Jeff

[RonP]

I only epoxy the scales on bolster are soldered on at Case factory I put tiny small dot sticker over the holes to try and prevent epoxy getting through holes usually does a good job. You have me pondering on flatness most of what I have issues with is stablized wood I flatten the back side by running through a drum sande or sometimes on a 12" disk sander so I think they are flat but worth re-checking. sometime I do take the knife apart and peen the handles and a .003 feeler gauge has worked well for spacing on the blade and liners. Thanks for the help.

[herbva]

Ron, there are a number of factors involved with the problem you are asking about. But, first, what Jeff said. I find that you have to use slackeners when peening the bolster pins. The amount of peening required to get the pin heads to "squash out" to adequately and completely fill the bolster holes will create too much pressure on the blade tangs unless you use the slackeners. Second, make sure you are getting all the "mating" surfaces that will rub on each other clean, flush and very smooth. I use very fine sandpaper on all of the blade tang and liner surfaces that are going to be in touch with each other before you reassemble a knife. I like to think of it as "smooth on smooth". I hope this makes sense.

[Eelephant]

If your new handle pieces aren’t perfectly flat you could be distorting the liners when putting the new scales on. I’m assuming that you’re installing the handles on an assembled knife (not disassembling the knife to install the handles).
If you are disassembling the knife, then you need to use a slackener when reassembling the knife to keep a small bit of clearance between the blade and liners. Opinions vary but somewhere between .003” and .008” gets the job done depending on the knife.
Jeff

Could you provide further details on this “slackener”? What is it/are they? Where does one get one? Googling, searching on Janet’s, etc.., isn’t turning anything up. Thank you!

[Jeffinn]

Sure. Here’s a post with some pictures and additional information. https://www.allaboutpocketknives.com/k ... er#p638182
Jeff

[herbva]

If your new handle pieces aren’t perfectly flat you could be distorting the liners when putting the new scales on. I’m assuming that you’re installing the handles on an assembled knife (not disassembling the knife to install the handles).
If you are disassembling the knife, then you need to use a slackener when reassembling the knife to keep a small bit of clearance between the blade and liners. Opinions vary but somewhere between .003” and .008” gets the job done depending on the knife.
Jeff

Could you provide further details on this “slackener”? What is it/are they? Where does one get one? Googling, searching on Janet’s, etc.., isn’t turning anything up. Thank you!

Just buy a cheap set of feeler gauges and modify the ends with tinsnips to turn them into slackeners. I generally use the .007 and .008 on smaller and medium knives and the .009 and .010 ones on larger knives. Make sure that you taper the bolster holes and use the correct size pin stock for the knife that you are working on.

[BIGHEAD]

I only epoxy the scales on bolster are soldered on at Case factory I put tiny small dot sticker over the holes to try and prevent epoxy getting through holes usually does a good job. You have me pondering on flatness most of what I have issues with is stablized wood I flatten the back side by running through a drum sande or sometimes on a 12" disk sander so I think they are flat but worth re-checking. sometime I do take the knife apart and peen the handles and a .003 feeler gauge has worked well for spacing on the blade and liners. Thanks for the help.

Your feeler guage is too thin IMHO on a trapper I use either .007 or .008. Also if you leave too much pin material sticking out when yku peen it will warp that end of the knife slightly.
Also if you peen the spring pin too tight it will cause your problem. I know sounds crazy but it will. Don’t ask how I know.

A well used .007

[BIGHEAD]

And I must ask why are you taking the knife apart if your not pinning the scales. (Inquiring minds and the like)

[RonP]

I am not taking the knives apart I think maybe some of them thought I was because in my post I said scales and bolsters look fantastic what I was referring to after scales were fitted and sanded flush I buff bolsters to shine up and remove any light sanding scratch pattern. However in some cases I do take them completely apart and peen the scales so I was appreciative of all the advice either way the scales are attached. I have quiet a few to get finished up right now and I do everything the same and about every 2 or 3 one will not snap shut have to mess with it oil it sometimes open front pin a little bit to make it snap shut. Can’t figure out what I am doing wrong some snap shut perfect and some don’t.

[orvet]

Instead of using a razor blade to open up the tight bolsters, I use a liner from an old pocket knife. I can sand it down if I need to to thin it a little bit, but being brass it doesn't tend to scratch the liner or the blade. I have even tapped the liner in between the blade and the outside liner. I will also close the blade with the extra liner wedged between the liner and the blade. That usually cures the problem. If you're having trouble with your pivot pins recessing when you do that, then adjust your walk and talk before you sand your pens flush. That way you're not pulling the pin down inside after you have the proper tension set.


I agree with the others, if you're using a slacker I almost always use an .008" slacker.

[btrwtr]

If the scales are fit very tightly you could be stressing the frame of the knife which can cause problems with snap. The scales should fit but should not at all be forced to fit.