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vieu101 wrote:Looking good Elvis...you gunna post pictures of the knife I sent you LOLOLOLOLOLO
0078 wrote:Bob I'm going to give this a try did you mig, tig, or braze I'm try it on some junk knifes first. Ill keep you posted, thanks for the thread. Greg
Elvis wrote:jerryd6818 wrote:Are you going to weld and re-drill the pivot hole or will you just drill it slightly oversize to get rid of the out of round and use a larger pin?
Steady as she goes on this one.
Steady as she goes is right. First I'll trace out the exact shape and size of the remaining intact piece of tang to give me a guide as I regrind and normally there is no problem with the hole. TIG welding uses a rod (in this case) that is about 1/16" and the guy that does my welding can add the needed metal without filling the hole. Its what he does for a living and he's gotten very good at it. My biggest concerns will likely be grinding the blade back to 1 or 2 thousandths less than the width of the backspring and making sure the backspring grinding is as seamless as possible. After that, it should be a straight-forward reassembly since we're using the original handle material.
If the hole were to see some added metal, I'd take a small Dremel attachment (after grinding to the correct width) and try to bring the hole back to match the other blade in the knife. I'm not a fan of enlarging the pin size except as a last resort. It is a good option that is nice to have as a fall-back should problems arise, but I try to save it if I can.
btrwtr wrote:Have you or your welder ever used a heat absorption paste to keep the heat generated from the welding process from ruining the blade temper?
btrwtr wrote:I've always referred to the small tabs of metal that develop as "ears".
Not sure if there is another term but that's what they look like to me so that is what I call them. Any other terms you use or suggestions to describe?
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