Polishing Compounds and Wheels

[Jeffinn]

I have a low speed buffer that uses 8” wheels. Currently Im using black magic compound for most of my metal polishing and pink scratchless for everything else.
What are you folks using to get the best finishes on your knives? Also, how often do you replace your buffing wheels with new ones? I’m assuming there’s a point where they’re just to clogged up to use?
Thanks.
Jeff

[Meridian_Mike]

I'm glad you ask this Jeff.....
I have used one of my wheels 'till it is half the diameter it started at.....LOL. (It needs changing!)
I also need some rouge advice. I have always used red first.... then.... ??? (what ever I grabbed)

SO, I also would like to know some good polishing wheel practices.

I'm clueless....

[rea1eye]

I don't have any wheels or polishing compounds either but I am interested in learning too!

Maybe someday I will get them.

Bob

[Doc B]

It's been a while...but in a jewelry making class, I took in high school. We used ( and I still use) tripoli first and finish with red rouge. I just use small mandrel polishing wheels in a variable speed handpiece. I'm sure there are a million proper combinations.

[orvet]

I have a low speed buffer that uses 8” wheels. Currently Im using black magic compound for most of my metal polishing and pink scratchless for everything else.
What are you folks using to get the best finishes on your knives? Also, how often do you replace your buffing wheels with new ones? I’m assuming there’s a point where they’re just to clogged up to use?
Thanks.
Jeff

What you use Jeff is pretty much the same as I use. I have tried different compounds over the years, I used green Tripoli to start with because I had some, but found it was not very effective on bone, brass and nickel silver.

For most General applications the Black Magic Rouge works well for General applications and the No Scratch Pink is great to get out tiny surface scratches and give things a final gloss. I use it on bone, stag, nickel silver and brass. But I keep separate wheels for bone and stag, if you polished nickel silver or brass it will turn the remaining Rouge black and then deposit it in the pores of the bone or the Stag (or ivory). I always use a newer clean 8 in muslin wheel for the application of No Scratch Pink to bone, ivory and stag. With Ivory and white bone I find it helpful before polishing it if I seal it with thin CA adhesive. This feels most of the pores and prevents the black and Rouge from filling the pores.

I also use Emory compound, I think I got it from Jantz, or heavy cutting of Steel especially. The Emory does a better job of taking the heavy or scratches out then the Blackmagic does. Mostly I use the emery if I'm trying to polish a blade or another Steel part.

[Bill DeShivs]

I don't think you can clog up a buffing wheel.
I never have.

[orvet]

Also, how often do you replace your buffing wheels with new ones? I’m assuming there’s a point where they’re just to clogged up to use?
Thanks.
Jeff

Sorry I missed this part of the question earlier. I usually start a Muslim wheel with No Scratch Pink or even with Carnauba wax. I will use this until it becomes dirty or contaminated with rust, steel particles etc. Depending on the contamination I will move it to a material less particular about being buffed.
For example:
I started a buff out using it to apply wax to wood or bone and stag handles. Once I get it a little dirty with perhaps dye from dark-colored bone I will move it to a bone/stag buff that I use with no scratch pink before the pins of been installed in the material, because the pins and bolsters (brass & nickel silver) will turn that buff black. After that I use it to buff whole knives, handles and bolsters. The next place I will use that buff after it is becoming too contaminated doing the handles, I will probably change it to a black magic buff and use that for general purpose buffing but it will probably be the wheeling is most around the shop. I just start using it for a Black Magic rouge. Then if I get some steel slivers and this one, I start noticing it scratching up the brass that I'm buffing I will probably change that buff to Emory which is much coarser and I will use that one for steel.

The reason I do this a it's cheaper and because I am going to a coarser rouge on each wheel and in general moving towards harder materials as well.
Like Bill said, you really can't plug them up, but you don't want to use a steel buff that may have some steel splinters and it on brass the softer metal.
It seems to me that the more you use the wheel, the better it works. I do use a rake on it periodically to get it to better.

I don't know if this way is right or wrong, because I didn't have anyone to teach me, I just start experimenting, this is how my buffing sort of evolved.

[just bob]

This is a bit lengthy but very good.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lDxuZse-214

[Meridian_Mike]

I never knew what grit each color contained. I found this on the net.....

See if you agree....

So here's a general guide:

BLACK = Emery Compound, a course abrasive material for removal of scratches, pits, paint, rust etc.
BROWN = Tripoli compound used for general purpose cut and color on most soft metals.
WHITE = Blizzard compound, used for color and final finish of harder metals, has a cutting action.
RED = Jeweler's Rouge, designed to polish without any cutting action. Safe on thin plates. Use on its own wheel.
BLUE = A dryer, almost greaseless wheel - designed to polish without any cutting action. Safe on thin plates. Use on its own wheel.
GREEN = Used exclusively for Stainless Steel.

If you just want to polish plastic that is already smooth, use Rouge. If there are scratches that need to be removed before polishing, start with Tripoli. These are all designed for use with a buffing wheel, and it's easiest to have one wheel for each compound, otherwise you have to clean the wheel when changing compound. Blue and white may also be useful on plastic.

If you want to polish with a cloth and not use a wheel, the liquid compounds are easier to use.

Be careful when using the wheel with plastic; it is easy to overheat and melt some plastics. If you are not getting the results you want quickly enough with light pressure, start with a coarser compound.

Another question I had is answered in this explanation. I wondered if you needed different wheels for each compound. Looks like you do need to keep some finer compounds on their own dedicated wheel.

[Jeffinn]

Thanks for the responses everyone.

[Bill DeShivs]

You never clean a buff to use a finer compound. As Orvet said, you can go coarser. ALWAYS use a separate buff for each compound. Keep unused buffs in plastic baggies.

I have a half dozen buffers in my shop. The most used is a 1750 RPM 8" model that is used exclusively with green compound. It's used for final finish on knives-both handles and blades. I find that using red or white rouge makes the knives too shiny. Few are that shiny from the factory. I use rouge on jewelry.

If I get polishing compound in pores of handle material, I scrub it with WD 40, then a paste of Baking soda and Dawn detergent. If necessary, I have a steam cleaner.

I have never used a buffing rake, nor do I see the need for one.

There are different buffs for different purposes- Soft for getting into tight places and leaving a fine finish. Hard felt (or, even wood) laps for finishing flat areas, muslin wheels for general polishing, etc.

[Jeffinn]

You never clean a buff to use a finer compound. As Orvet said, you can go coarser. ALWAYS use a separate buff for each compound. Keep unused buffs in plastic baggies.

I have a half dozen buffers in my shop. The most used is a 1750 RPM 8" model that is used exclusively with green compound. It's used for final finish on knives-both handles and blades. I find that using red or white rouge makes the knives too shiny. Few are that shiny from the factory. I use rouge on jewelry.

If I get polishing compound in pores of handle material, I scrub it with WD 40, then a paste of Baking soda and Dawn detergent. If necessary, I have a steam cleaner.

I have never used a buffing rake, nor do I see the need for one.

There are different buffs for different purposes- Soft for getting into tight places and leaving a fine finish. Hard felt (or, even wood) laps for finishing flat areas, muslin wheels for general polishing, etc.

Thanks for the tip on using WD40, then a paste of baking soda and Dawn detergent. I occasionally have trouble getting compound out of the pores in bone handles. I have an ultrasonic cleaner (left from my jewelry days) that I use from time to time which helps.
And I was going to buy a buffing rake but will hold off on that based on your comments. I appreciate you sharing your knowledge with us!
Jeff

[orvet]

You never clean a buff to use a finer compound. As Orvet said, you can go coarser. ALWAYS use a separate buff for each compound. Keep unused buffs in plastic baggies.

I have a half dozen buffers in my shop. The most used is a 1750 RPM 8" model that is used exclusively with green compound. It's used for final finish on knives-both handles and blades. I find that using red or white rouge makes the knives too shiny. Few are that shiny from the factory. I use rouge on jewelry.

If I get polishing compound in pores of handle material, I scrub it with WD 40, then a paste of Baking soda and Dawn detergent. If necessary, I have a steam cleaner.

I have never used a buffing rake, nor do I see the need for one.

There are different buffs for different purposes- Soft for getting into tight places and leaving a fine finish. Hard felt (or, even wood) laps for finishing flat areas, muslin wheels for general polishing, etc.

Very helpful stuff Bill, thank you.

When I started out working on knives about 15 years ago the only other person I knew doing that was Kaleb, Muskrat Man.
We both started out about the same time as I recall.
Most of the learning I did was by trial and error, and believe me I made a lot of errors.
I bought a lot of things that I could have done without but there are a few things I wished I had found sooner.

I am curious as to why you see no need to use a rake on your wheels. I seldom use a rake, but when I have been using black magic or emery rouge, sometimes the wheel becomes a bit matted and I find it helpful to loosen it up and remove a little bit of excess rouge. I modeled one when I started because everything I read said that was one of the tools you needed. I am wondering what is the rationale for the rake?

[Bill DeShivs]

I want my wheels to have a good "head" of polishing compound.
I guess if you want your wheels fluffy, a rake may come in handy.
If i need a fluffy wheel, I just use a loose wheel.

Here's another tip- spraying your work (or buff) with WD 40 will make the compound cut smoother and more aggressively. Just a tiny squirt while the wheel is running, or on your work.

[orvet]

Bill, does the WD40 on the buff help prevent 'pulling' of the brass?

[Bill DeShivs]

Yes, it does prevent that. It is also very useful buffing aluminum.
Helps quite a bit on steel, too.

[orvet]

Bill,
I tried your suggestion with the WD-40 while buffing the liners on the inside of a knife I was putting together. I was impressed and how much quicker the wheel cut, requiring less pressure and less time buffing.
Thank you for the tip, I think it will be very helpful.

[Jeffinn]

Bill,
I tried your suggestion with the WD-40 while buffing the liners on the inside of a knife I was putting together. I was impressed and how much quicker the wheel cut, requiring less pressure and less time buffing.
Thank you for the tip, I think it will be very helpful.

I had the same experience with WD40, I used some while buffing the steel bolsters on my latest knife and it worked really well.

[stockman]

My compound is very old, may 15 years. Is it still good? I used some it didn't seem right. Harold

[Bill DeShivs]

That depends on what kind of compound it is. Standard stick compounds should last.
Greaseless and glue-based compounds must be periodically replaced.