Hi Guys,
I have just unpacked my most recent score from thief Bay.
It was described as a Case XX 2 1/4" vintage pocket knife, but I believe it to be a CASE XX 2 1/4" red bone Muskrat pattern.The Ebay description had noted a poor snap on the small blade.
I soaked it in denatured spirits and scrubbed and brushed a heap of dirt and rust from the pivots then oiled it.
I notice that there is poor snap when the opposing blade-opposite end of the spring- is closed.
However when the opposing blade is semi open-ie; right angles to the body- the snap improves greatly.
I suspect that the spring is either weak or bent.
Whats your opinion of what to do, as a cure? I am thinking I can remake the spring or perhaps just re-temper it. Apart from the rust which cleaned up leaving small corrosion pits I can live with, and the week snap it is in good condition.
Thanks
Ozwelder
Fixing poor snap on CaseXX 2 1/4" Blade Red Bone Muskrat
Re: Fixing poor snap on CaseXX M2 1/4"Red Bone Muskrat
I had a closer look.
The weak snap blade is "droopy when completely folded out. There is a good bit of side to side play and the bolster and liner has spread as indicated by the pin which is now slightly below the surface of the bolster. There is still black crud floating out in the oil.
So the possibilities are :
weak spring
worn pivot face on blade
worn area on contact surface of the spring.
bolsters spreading causing side play
Opinions ?
The Muskrat is certainly a candidate for surgery but due to my limited experience I shall leave it for now. I really like Case knives and would hate to ruin this one.
I will pull apart less worthy shell type knives to gain the knowledge and experience I so sorely need to effect a good repair on these knives.
Oz
The weak snap blade is "droopy when completely folded out. There is a good bit of side to side play and the bolster and liner has spread as indicated by the pin which is now slightly below the surface of the bolster. There is still black crud floating out in the oil.
So the possibilities are :
weak spring
worn pivot face on blade
worn area on contact surface of the spring.
bolsters spreading causing side play
Opinions ?
The Muskrat is certainly a candidate for surgery but due to my limited experience I shall leave it for now. I really like Case knives and would hate to ruin this one.
I will pull apart less worthy shell type knives to gain the knowledge and experience I so sorely need to effect a good repair on these knives.
Oz
Re: Fixing poor snap on CaseXX M2 1/4"Red Bone Muskrat
Here is a thread that I started a couple of weeks ago.
If you look down near the end, silver-soldering a steel shim on the spring worked better than trying to build up the worn tang. Either way, you are just trying to replace the metal that has worn down from lack of lubrication.
I have since tried this on a few knives, including a Case that belongs to my Brother-in-law. It worked great!
I do recommend trying it on a few cheaper knives, to see what you think of the idea.
viewtopic.php?f=37&t=64344
If you look down near the end, silver-soldering a steel shim on the spring worked better than trying to build up the worn tang. Either way, you are just trying to replace the metal that has worn down from lack of lubrication.
I have since tried this on a few knives, including a Case that belongs to my Brother-in-law. It worked great!
I do recommend trying it on a few cheaper knives, to see what you think of the idea.
viewtopic.php?f=37&t=64344
Jesus is life.
Everything else is just a hobby.
~Reverand
Everything else is just a hobby.
~Reverand
Re: Fixing poor snap on CaseXX M2 1/4"Red Bone Muskrat
Hi Reverand,
I am postive you are correct. I have just retrieved a loupe from deep within a not often used tool box and it was an eye opener.
With that eyepiece and and the aid of a strong flash light I was able to take a really good look at the pivot heel of the blade that would not snap.
It was all worn away except for a tiny thin sliver which rises vertically from the pivot heel and is possibly only a few thou wide. It matches exactly against a gap between the spring and the liner, obviously caused by the pivot pin slipping in the bolster and allowing the bolsters and liners to spread apart.
It is as clear as day now once it can be seen with good optics and sufficient light.
I well remember your post and yes I will be practicing on the junk knives. I think a very strong magnifying lens with a bright LED light is in my future tool purchases.Very soon I would say.
Your repair is way preferable than having to remake a spring. I have been using 45% silver solder most of my working life so that procedure should be no problem.
Thank you for your reply
Ozwelder
I am postive you are correct. I have just retrieved a loupe from deep within a not often used tool box and it was an eye opener.
With that eyepiece and and the aid of a strong flash light I was able to take a really good look at the pivot heel of the blade that would not snap.
It was all worn away except for a tiny thin sliver which rises vertically from the pivot heel and is possibly only a few thou wide. It matches exactly against a gap between the spring and the liner, obviously caused by the pivot pin slipping in the bolster and allowing the bolsters and liners to spread apart.
It is as clear as day now once it can be seen with good optics and sufficient light.
I well remember your post and yes I will be practicing on the junk knives. I think a very strong magnifying lens with a bright LED light is in my future tool purchases.Very soon I would say.
Your repair is way preferable than having to remake a spring. I have been using 45% silver solder most of my working life so that procedure should be no problem.
Thank you for your reply
Ozwelder