Low Temp welding rod to fix proud blades?

[Robo]

I just saw an ad on pintrest (See link) that promotes this low temp welding rod that you can use-- supposedly very effectively --to weld any type of metal easily with a hand-heldpropane welding torch. I was wondering if I could use something like this to create a 1/16" or even less "spacer" where the blade meets the back spring in order to get just the right degree tilt to restore the symmetry of the knife when it's open.

Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated. I have several old toothpick knives with slightly proud blades. If I squish up a little bit of cardboard and drop it between where blade and back spring meet the put the blade in the open position, the knife goes from looking a tad off in profile to having that perfect couple of degree tilt it needs. It's like an instantaneous, noticeable, difference. Unfortunately, the solution is temporary and lame on a few different levels.And I don't want take the knives apart.

Thanks--Robo



https://sanrico.com/products/low-temp-w ... FBR0VreENv

[Meridian_Mike]

Well.....

I have a wire welder and that is what I use. I have welded blade edges with it and had pretty good success.
I can't speak for any welding rods.
The one thing about welding is this.... you have to get the host metal hot enough to allow the welding metal to attach (bond).

So a "cooler" rod might not work.... (I'm just throwing things out there).

Also.....

I don't see any way around taking a knife apart so any repairs will be "properly" done.

Good luck!

[herbva]

Robo, I use a wire welder (also called a flux welder) as well when I want to add steel back on to a spring to fill in where a depression has been worn, or to add steel back onto a tang that has become worn down. But, the knife definitely has to be apart to do this. I have to confess that I'm not clear on what you are trying to do. By "proud" are you referring to a blade tip that is sitting outside of the blade well when the knife is closed? In this case all I do is file a bit off the kick to adjust the closed position of the blade.

[OLDE CUTLER]

At 732 degrees, this is going to be soldering, not welding. If the knife originally wore out the hardened steel, soldering with a softer metal is not going to last at all. And the knives would certainly have to be dis assembled.

[ea42]

Robo, I use a wire welder (also called a flux welder) as well when I want to add steel back on to a spring to fill in where a depression has been worn, or to add steel back onto a tang that has become worn down. But, the knife definitely has to be apart to do this. I have to confess that I'm not clear on what you are trying to do. By "proud" are you referring to a blade tip that is sitting outside of the blade well when the knife is closed? In this case all I do is file a bit off the kick to adjust the closed position of the blade.

Herb I think he's referring to the blade position when the knife is open. Sounds like it has the broken back effect where it looks like the blade opens too far. Looking to add metal to the end of the spring.

Eric

[herbva]

Robo, I use a wire welder (also called a flux welder) as well when I want to add steel back on to a spring to fill in where a depression has been worn, or to add steel back onto a tang that has become worn down. But, the knife definitely has to be apart to do this. I have to confess that I'm not clear on what you are trying to do. By "proud" are you referring to a blade tip that is sitting outside of the blade well when the knife is closed? In this case all I do is file a bit off the kick to adjust the closed position of the blade.

Herb I think he's referring to the blade position when the knife is open. Sounds like it has the broken back effect where it looks like the blade opens too far. Looking to add metal to the end of the spring.

Eric

Eric, I think you may be right - that sounds more likely. I've been using my wire welder for about a year now, and am getting better at adding metal, but it is a bit tricky. Regardless, I also think that low temp welding isn't going to last very long. I just can't imagine that material holding up to hardened steel for very long.

[Mumbleypeg]

Whether the spring or the blade, if it’s heated enough to be welded it likely will loose it’s temper, and will need to be re-tempered. The spring hardness and the blade tang hardness need to be the same (or very nearly so) else one will wear the other at a disproportionate rate. I see no way any of it could be done without disassembling the knife.

Ken

[Robo]

Robo, I use a wire welder (also called a flux welder) as well when I want to add steel back on to a spring to fill in where a depression has been worn, or to add steel back onto a tang that has become worn down. But, the knife definitely has to be apart to do this. I have to confess that I'm not clear on what you are trying to do. By "proud" are you referring to a blade tip that is sitting outside of the blade well when the knife is closed? In this case all I do is file a bit off the kick to adjust the closed position of the blade.

Herb I think he's referring to the blade position when the knife is open. Sounds like it has the broken back effect where it looks like the blade opens too far. Looking to add metal to the end of the spring.

Eric

Yes, correct, the blade opens too far. unfortunately the knives in question are ones I'm collecting, not users, so I don't want to take them apart and risk cracking the old celluloid or bone covers, etc.. Thanks everyone, I really appreciate your thoughts. Looks like the "little-bits-of-carboard-between-backspring -and-blade" method is going to have to suffice.

[Bill DeShivs]

We do laser welding. It is extremely precise, and the heat is localized.
Designed for the jewelry business, you can weld a ring shank while holding it in your hand.
This type of welding has become a staple in my knife repair business.