I replaced the Main blade in this 34OT and cleaned up the other two blades a little.
I had the same thing happen last year on a larger Uncle Henry stockman. Have any of you other guys experienced this? Any ideas why?
I guess it is purely an academic question, as I will probably pin both ends from now on, just curious.
At first I left the Swinden key in place for the rear pen blade. After doing a test fit I noticed that the rear pen blade was stiff and had little snap. It had been fine before replacing the front blade. I took it back apart, drilled out the rear bolster and through-pinned both ends. After that it now has great walk and talk. Old Timer 34OT
Old Timer 34OT
Jesus is life.
Everything else is just a hobby.
~Reverand
Everything else is just a hobby.
~Reverand
Re: Old Timer 34OT
I have a 34OT very similar to yours. You got
yourself a nice knife. Hope it sharpened well
like mine did.
Bob
yourself a nice knife. Hope it sharpened well
like mine did.
Bob
Re: Old Timer 34OT
Reverand it may have only needed a bit of cutlering. Open one of the blades halfway and lay the tang on the stiddy at about a 45 degree angle, then give the high side a bit of a rap with a mallet, then turn it so the other side of the tang is on the high side and give that a rap (lightly at first). Repeat until the blade has good walk and talk. Don't overdo it or you'll make the blades too loose, check after each hit.
Eric
Eric
Re: Old Timer 34OT
Looks great Reverand!
I have had the same thing happen on the Schrades. I like to save the rear key if possible. Sometimes they must not sit correct after drilling the bolsters.I have just flipped the knife over and tapped on the springs. They seem to free up.
Nev
I have had the same thing happen on the Schrades. I like to save the rear key if possible. Sometimes they must not sit correct after drilling the bolsters.I have just flipped the knife over and tapped on the springs. They seem to free up.
Nev
Re: Old Timer 34OT
Thanks for the tips. The "cutlering" method sounds like how I was shown to straighten a blade that is hitting somewhere. I had not thought of going back and forth to loosen one.
I never did go back and fix that Uncle Henry with the same problem. I will try the offered advice on it and see if they work!
I never did go back and fix that Uncle Henry with the same problem. I will try the offered advice on it and see if they work!
Jesus is life.
Everything else is just a hobby.
~Reverand
Everything else is just a hobby.
~Reverand
- Meridian_Mike
- Posts: 4981
- Joined: Mon Apr 21, 2014 8:36 pm
- Location: Mississippi
Re: Old Timer 34OT
Good work Reverand!
That is a nice CLEAN and useful knife now!
Good save!
That is a nice CLEAN and useful knife now!
Good save!
"Life is tough.... but it's tougher if you're stupid."....John Wayne
Re: Old Timer 34OT
Looks factory fresh! I agree with Eric, as sometimes it just takes a little whack this way or that to revive that action...it could also have something to do with the replaced pin, if it wasn't the same size/location as the swinden rivet.
Re: Old Timer 34OT
Very nice work Reverand! I don't work on Schrades very often, but when I do, and have a loose blade or wobble issue at either end, I drill out the bolsters on both ends and replace both Swindens (like you did) with conventional pivot pins and that always seems to work. I wish that I could give you a logical explanation, but I have also found that just replacing the Swinden on one end doesn't seem to work out. I guess that you are just disrupting the order of the knife universe if you only replace the Swinden on one end.
"Better to do something imperfectly, than to do nothing flawlessly." ~ Robert H. Schuller
Herb
Herb