Bearbear wrote:So brass pins are ok to use on the blade pivot pin? I would have thought they would be a tad soft and you might be better off using something harder. Also you used 1/16' pins and state that the pins you removed were .070"........ 1/16" pins are .063" so you have .007" slop correct? So when you peen the pin, the slack is taken up in the hole in the blade or not? I fullt understand that you need a spacer in between the blade and the liner otherwise the blade will jam when you peen it.
I used nickel silver for the pivot pin; the pin through the bolsters and the pivot hole in the blade. On such a small pin I think brass would be too soft. However, Buck uses a much larger 1/8” brass pin on some of their 110 models, but since it is so much larger there is not a wear problem (at least not that I have ever seen in a 110.
The .070” brass pins were for the rocker pin (that holds the spring in place) and the end pin that holds the back end of the handles & spring in position.
In step 7 of taking the knife apart, I used a 1/16” pin punch (see pic #5) to drive the rocker pin out of the knife.
In the Reassembly step #1 you will see I used .070” brass pins. I replaced the .070” brass pins with ones the same size.
If you have any more questions just post then up here.
I am always happy to answer questions for people learning to work on their own knives.