Some steps to replacing handles on a slipjoint

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orvet
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Post by orvet »

Kaleb is right, they are peened & that is much easier to do if the knife is disassembled.
I have never seen braised pins. That would probably heat the handle material too hot and burn it.

I am working on a tutorial for you. Taking pics of my grandsons as they work. It is much easier to take pics if you aren't trying to do the work & take the pics both at the same time.

Dale
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Post by muskrat man »

orvet wrote:. Taking pics of my grandsons as they work. It is much easier to take pics if you aren't trying to do the work & take the pics both at the same time.

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I'm looking forward to it.

Post by dewman »

orvet wrote:Kaleb is right, they are peened & that is much easier to do if the knife is disassembled.
I have never seen braised pins. That would probably heat the handle material too hot and burn it.

I am working on a tutorial for you. Taking pics of my grandsons as they work. It is much easier to take pics if you aren't trying to do the work & take the pics both at the same time.

Dale
I'm looking forward to it. I have two Camillus electricians knives at the ready, hoping to make them into a one blader. The ones I've seen on the forum really caught my eye. I have some nice ambonia wood I plan to use for the scales. If the first one goes as planned, I also have some fiddleback maple I'll use on the other.

Pictured is the ambonia. Nice stuff to work with. About the same hardness as walnut. It has a unique feature of sort of an irridescense (sp?) when you turn it on a different plane with sunlight on it.
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orvet
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Post by orvet »

Nice wood ::tu::
You should see the Amboyna Burl, absolutely amazing.
Yesterday I found a new source for wood locally. I won some Koa on ebay and saw it was local. I made arrangements for local pickup. It turns out that I used to work with the guy about 10 years ago. (It's a small world, but I would hate to paint it) :mrgreen: He has some of the finest burl I have seen & a number of woods I have not heard of before.

Here is a pic of the wood I got yesterday:
The large piece on the left is stabilized Buckeye Burl, Koa on top left, Red Mallee in left center & Sepele on the bottom left.
Does anyone need a knife re-handled? :lol:

Dale
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Post by Hukk »

Would that place be in Klamath Falls? I was drooling through a warehouse over there last summer. Fantastic selection and nothing like picking out your own wood. I have a piece of KOA (5A EXTRA CURLY XF lumber) coming from Klamath Falls also, along with some very nicely striped Brazilian Tulipwood.

Real nice haul Dale! ::drool:: Makes me want to be up around those exotic wood warehouses. ::tu::

P.S. That sure is a great looking piece of Buckeye, indeed one of my top 5 favorites! ::drool:: ::tu:: ::tu::
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Post by orvet »

Nice Hukk. ::tu:: ::drool::
This guy has a lot of instrument grade wood & exhibition grade too as he gets it in. I saw a piece of Koa that would make a guitar back.....Knock your socks off.

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Post by Edgewise »

muskrat man wrote:it isn'tt mandatory to disassemble the whole knife to show pins, but to be done properly it helps, ...
Is that why the pins were not replaced?
Does this mean that, with modern hi-tech epoxy, pins are not necessary?
Or does the beauty of the scales determine whether pins are put or not?

Thanks for the insider look, agteacher2. For me, it's like a mystery being revealed. You really brought out a glow in that bois d'arc.
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do you

Post by revencer »

do you sand the wood all the way down to the grips shape or do you cut them down to an outline then sand? If so what do you cut?
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orvet
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Re: do you

Post by orvet »

revencer wrote:do you sand the wood all the way down to the grips shape or do you cut them down to an outline then sand? If so what do you cut?
For me, it all depends on the knife and the handles that were on it. If I am replacing the wood handles of a Schrade LB-7 I will use wood the same thickness as the bolsters, just like on the original.
If I am doing a Stockman, I will leave the wood a bit thicker in the middle and taper it down to meet the bolsters.

I usually use the old handles as a pattern to make the new handles. Of course you have to fit the length precisely to the bolsters, but I will usually leave it wider on the sides and sand it down to fit the liner after I have glued it on.

I hope this helps,
Dale
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Re: Some steps to replacing handles on a slipjoint

Post by vikingfisher »

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Re: Some steps to replacing handles on a slipjoint

Post by cactus2020 »

this might seem like a stupid question, but how do you hold the handles on, without pins
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Re: Some steps to replacing handles on a slipjoint

Post by jonet143 »

not a stupid question, glue is the answer.
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Post by bluerush55 »

agteacher2 wrote:Thanks Sunburst,

If I had a photographer to stand by and take the pictures of each step it would be a better turorial. I get going and forget about the camera. ::shrug::

Glad you enjoyed it!!!
Jeff
Thta was great Jeff. IM from just down the road, out by Longview airport. I was wondering what the best glue to use is?
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Re:

Post by bluerush55 »

orvet wrote:Nice wood ::tu::
You should see the Amboyna Burl, absolutely amazing.
Yesterday I found a new source for wood locally. I won some Koa on ebay and saw it was local. I made arrangements for local pickup. It turns out that I used to work with the guy about 10 years ago. (It's a small world, but I would hate to paint it) :mrgreen: He has some of the finest burl I have seen & a number of woods I have not heard of before.

Here is a pic of the wood I got yesterday:
The large piece on the left is stabilized Buckeye Burl, Koa on top left, Red Mallee in left center & Sepele on the bottom left.
Does anyone need a knife re-handled? :lol:

Dale
Dale is there any way we could get to know this guy with the wood????? Don G
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Re: Some steps to replacing handles on a slipjoint

Post by orvet »

Don,
Here is his eBay store. http://stores.ebay.com/That-Burly-Guy
His name is Gary.

Tell him I sent you.
We used to work together.

Dale
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bluerush55
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Re: Some steps to replacing handles on a slipjoint

Post by bluerush55 »

orvet wrote:Don,
Here is his eBay store. http://stores.ebay.com/That-Burly-Guy
His name is Gary.

Tell him I sent you.
We used to work together.

Dale
Thanks Dale all I can say is wowie, he's got some wood... DOn G
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orvet
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Re: Some steps to replacing handles on a slipjoint

Post by orvet »

You said that right.
I love to go to his house & pick out what I want. :mrgreen:
He said he has the harvest rights on 60 acres of Koa in Hawaii.
Koa can only be harvested after it has blown down. Well, a storm hit this area several years ago, so this wood he is getting has air cured before it is cut.
He has some beautiful Koa.

Dale
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Re: Some steps to replacing handles on a slipjoint

Post by bluerush55 »

Dale he said he's opening a web site
Quote:

Thank you we will be moving to the web towards the end of January at www dot thatburly guy dot com.
Burly

I can't wait great wood...
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Re: Some steps to replacing handles on a slipjoint

Post by TLARbb »

jonet143 wrote:not a stupid question, glue is the answer.
Can you be more specific on the particular glue you are using? And speak to metal prep for good adhesion if you will please. I know this is an old thread, but I would like to know more about this subject (repairing slipjoints).

Ed
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orvet
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Re: Some steps to replacing handles on a slipjoint

Post by orvet »

Hi Ed,
Welcome to AAPK.
It may be an old thread but the techniques have not changed.

Here is a link to the glue I use: http://www.usaknifemaker.com/store/epox ... p-571.html

I use this glue for most applications in knife making & repair.
I find it works MUCH better than most of the consumer grade adhesives available at the Lowe's or Home Depot type stores. The only exception to that is if I am gluing wood to the metal liners. Then I sometimes use Sumo or Gorilla Glue if it is a flat fit with no spaces, (like in a stick tang).

For a great discussion on glues and which are best a couple knife makers, Steve S. and Tracy Mickley, did exhaustive testing on glues, currently at 19 pages of testing and comments. You can read about it at: http://www.knifenetwork.com/forum/showt ... light=glue

For prep I rough up both surfaces, the liner or tang (if it is a fixed blade) and the handle material with coarse sandpaper. Then I wipe them with 99% pure isopropyl alcohol. Alcohol is one of the best cleaners and it leaves almost no residue like acetone or other detergent or oil based cleaners can.

Allow a few seconds for the alcohol to dry and you are ready to mix your epoxy and glue.
If I am are using polyurethane glue like Sumo or Gorilla I prep the same way. Then I spray one piece to be glued with water (it activates the glue) and apply the glue to the other piece. Then I clamp it and allow the recommended time for drying.

Tip- polyurethane glues tend to foam when drying. It is easier to remove the foam if you get to it before it sets up completely.

I hope this helps,
Dale
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Re: Some steps to replacing handles on a slipjoint

Post by Bearbear »

Wow I clicked on your link and we definately dont read Japanese?
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orvet
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Re: Some steps to replacing handles on a slipjoint

Post by orvet »

Which links Bear?
The ones in the previous post are working......... I just checked them.
You might try them again.
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