Spring for LB7?

[Byrd]

I,m looking for one of the roundwire s shaped springs for an LB7. Let me know if you can help!

[OLDE CUTLER]

You don't necessarily need a round piece of spring pin steel. I have fixed more than one of the big lock blade Schrades using an Allen wrench for a replacement spring. After you take out the pivot pin, take the small end of the L shaped Allen wrench to test to see what size will fit into the spring recess slot. After this is determined, cut off the short end of the L with a Dremel cut off wheel. Slip the Allen wrench piece down into the slot, compress the new "spring to re assemble the rocker pin. Done. Show is an Uncle Henry LB8 that I fixed this way.

[OLDE CUTLER]

Here is another one, a Craftsman 95206 that is probably identical to a Schrade that I fixed with an Allen wrench for a spring.

[Meridian_Mike]

Now that is just too cool.
I didn't know an allen key had any spring to it...
I am going to have to file that knowledge away for future use!

[OLDE CUTLER]

Now that is just too cool.
I didn't know an allen key had any spring to it...
I am going to have to file that knowledge away for future use!

Allen wrenches have to be hardened or they would round off the corners too easily. I cut them with a Dremel cutoff wheel because they are too hard for a hacksaw blade to cut.

[Meridian_Mike]

Very good!
Now that I think about it, I remember some of the smaller ones flexing a bit during use.
Thanks for that info!!!

[orvet]

I have also used the end of the coil spring from squeeze clamps. Harbor Freight sells clamps that are about 3 inches long and have a coil spring in the middle with the end of the spring being straight. It is attached inside of the paddles that you squeeze to open the clamp. I use a Dremel cut off wheel and cut the straight arm off the spring off at the coil. It works great for an LB7, in fact you have to cut a little more off usually. You can get two springs out of one little clamp which are sometimes on sale for a dollar or less.

You can also buy spring steel bars from Jantz supply. They have them in 6 inch links and I think they have some of them in 12 inch links, at least they used to. You will have to file down the bar to size but that shouldn't take too much.

[Meridian_Mike]

Another great idea!
Thanks so much for that input Dale!

[Byrd]

Wow! Thanks guys! What an easy solution. I have a small drawer full of allen wrenches that I can use. As always I appreciate the feedback, help and advise.

[orvet]

Very good!
Now that I think about it, I remember some of the smaller ones flexing a bit during use.
Thanks for that info!!!

I have a good set of Allen wrenches that have considerable flex to them when I use them, especially twisting. I have also had inexpensive Allen wrenches that broke when I exerted a lot of twisting on them. I think they were not annealed enough and were still too hard.

It is good to know about using an Allen wrench as a spring. However, before I do that I think I will try and devise a test to determine how flexible versus how brittle a particular Allen wrench is, because like a lot of guys I have a drawer full of Allen wrenches. Unless the brand name is stamped on the wrench itself I have no clue as to its origin. I would hate to get an Allen wrench spring installed in a knife, only to have it break a few days later.

Definitely good information OC, thanks for sharing it!

[OLDE CUTLER]

Very good!
Now that I think about it, I remember some of the smaller ones flexing a bit during use.
Thanks for that info!!!

I have a good set of Allen wrenches that have considerable flex to them when I use them, especially twisting. I have also had inexpensive Allen wrenches that broke when I exerted a lot of twisting on them. I think they were not annealed enough and were still too hard.

It is good to know about using an Allen wrench as a spring. However, before I do that I think I will try and devise a test to determine how flexible versus how brittle a particular Allen wrench is, because like a lot of guys I have a drawer full of Allen wrenches. Unless the brand name is stamped on the wrench itself I have no clue as to its origin. I would hate to get an Allen wrench spring installed in a knife, only to have it break a few days later.

Definitely good information OC, thanks for sharing it!

I should have added a couple of useful details in addition to what I already posted. When cutting the short leg of the Allen wrench off, cut it so you leave a little of the rounded corner to rub on the spring. Or radius the end so you don't have a square, sharp corner that will gouge into the locking lever. Length will have to be determined, then cut the opposite end from the one that is radiused. On the Uncle Henry I showed above, I removed the rocker pin to install the Allen wrench spring. On the Craftsman shown above, I did not remove the center pin, or dis assemble the knife, but cut the Allen wrench to length, laid it down into the knife, and using a piece of brass rod, gave it a tap with a hammer to pop the spring into place. About a 2 second installation of the new spring. I don't think this application will bend an Allen wrench enough to cause any problems with breakage. Just make sure you check the fit of the Allen wrench into the retaining slot so it is snug.

[Meridian_Mike]

Very good!!
I LIKE this thread!!

[Tony_Wood]

Good info, fellas.
Never thought of using an ALLEN wrench.

[loonyone]

This is an awesome thread! One concerning facet I have with my broken spring is that the broken piece is still locked in and I can’t seem to pry it out. With the latest tip, not removing the pivot pin, this won’t work for me.
What’s is the simplest method to remove the pin? I’ve had this knife for almost 45 years so don’t want to screw it up

[Madmarco]

This is an awesome thread! One concerning facet I have with my broken spring is that the broken piece is still locked in and I can’t seem to pry it out. With the latest tip, not removing the pivot pin, this won’t work for me.
What’s is the simplest method to remove the pin? I’ve had this knife for almost 45 years so don’t want to screw it up

I can't answer your questions L.O., but check back to this thread because someone will eventually see it and likely have answers for you. And BTW, to AAPK!

[mrsethshoe]

Hey Guys! I don’t mean to resurrect an old post, but also don’t want to start a new thread where it’s not needed.

My spring just broke this morning - and this is my EDC knife. It’s like an old friend. I’ve never done any knife smithing so I have zero experience working on them. It does appear part of the spring is broken off in the butt of the knife. How would I extract before being able to “hack” in a replacement spring?

Any recommendations where I could contact to have it replaced? I haven’t looked at knives or any idea where to look in a long time (as I was given this many years ago).

Thanks in advance for any info!

[Madmarco]

Hey Guys! I don’t mean to resurrect an old post, but also don’t want to start a new thread where it’s not needed.

My spring just broke this morning - and this is my EDC knife. It’s like an old friend. I’ve never done any knife smithing so I have zero experience working on them. It does appear part of the spring is broken off in the butt of the knife. How would I extract before being able to “hack” in a replacement spring?

Any recommendations where I could contact to have it replaced? I haven’t looked at knives or any idea where to look in a long time (as I was given this many years ago).

Thanks in advance for any info!

to AAPK, Seth!
I can't answer your questions either since I'm not a mechanic, but keep checking this thread for answers as many guys here are mechanics and possibly will have the info you need once they've had a chance to read this. I have had work done by Muskratman, a member, and Rubens Blades prior to his joining AAPK, and have made several purchases from others, all with complete trouble-free success. Bill De Shivs, the designer of the "Leverletto" leverlock auto is also a member, and he does work by appointment, as well as "herbva" and a few others that currently escape me. So, as you can see we are fairly well equipped for answering questions, doing repairs, and/or buying knives, and since these things seem to be what you need, why not kick-up your feet and stay awhile, you'll be glad you did!

[Jeffinn]

Hey Guys! I don’t mean to resurrect an old post, but also don’t want to start a new thread where it’s not needed.

My spring just broke this morning - and this is my EDC knife. It’s like an old friend. I’ve never done any knife smithing so I have zero experience working on them. It does appear part of the spring is broken off in the butt of the knife. How would I extract before being able to “hack” in a replacement spring?

Any recommendations where I could contact to have it replaced? I haven’t looked at knives or any idea where to look in a long time (as I was given this many years ago).

Thanks in advance for any info!

If you can see a bit of the spring sticking out (down inside the blade well), then you can probably grab hold of it with some small needle nose pliers. If you can’t retrieve it then you’ll have to have someone disassemble the butt end of the knife to remove the spring. Most of the LB7’s that I’ve worked on had springs that were easily removed (fairly loose fitting in the spring holder).
YMMV
Jeff

[OLDE CUTLER]

Hey Guys! I don’t mean to resurrect an old post, but also don’t want to start a new thread where it’s not needed.

My spring just broke this morning - and this is my EDC knife. It’s like an old friend. I’ve never done any knife smithing so I have zero experience working on them. It does appear part of the spring is broken off in the butt of the knife. How would I extract before being able to “hack” in a replacement spring?

Any recommendations where I could contact to have it replaced? I haven’t looked at knives or any idea where to look in a long time (as I was given this many years ago).

Thanks in advance for any info!

If you can see a bit of the spring sticking out (down inside the blade well), then you can probably grab hold of it with some small needle nose pliers. If you can’t retrieve it then you’ll have to have someone disassemble the butt end of the knife to remove the spring. Most of the LB7’s that I’ve worked on had springs that were easily removed (fairly loose fitting in the spring holder).
YMMV
Jeff

Me too. The broken pieces had already fallen out or were easily removed with the tap of a plastic face hammer on the opposite end of the ones I have fixed. As Jeff said, may need dis assembly.