Buck 112, Removing handles disassembling of knife

nobullknives · Post by **nobullknives** » Thu Jan 17, 2008 6:35 pm

I am new to all this. What a load of info. I love to read and I am self taught at most things I do or have to do! I have gottn into a passion I always had. (Knives) Even After 33 years of marriage it still gets me into trouble ,if you know what I mean! I have alot of time on my hands do to my health. Is there is any one out there who can point me in the right direction on disassembling a buck 112. And some good reading materials. I have the tools needed for most tasks. Thanks for any info! Not Looking for any secrets just some tips!

muskrat man · Post by **muskrat man** » Thu Jan 17, 2008 7:41 pm

Well, if you are just wanting to rehandle it you don't really need to disassemble the entire knife this is just a big un-needed headache. Repinning the bolsters on buck 112 and 110 models in tougher than normal becuase of brass consistancy. to remove the handles to install new ones just dremel off the heads of the pins, slide a thin bladed knife under the scales, pop them off, grab all the small pins with pliers and pull them out then trim and peen the center pin over unless you plan to repin the scales. If you peen the pin over on the liners to do pinless scales be sure not to peen it too tight or you'll crack the brass (I cracked a couple of my firsts) the brass is hard and quite brittle around that pin so tread lightly. Good luck and show us your efforts

nobullknives · Post by **nobullknives** » Thu Jan 17, 2008 10:21 pm

Thank you very much. I went ahead and disassembled the whole knife. I am going to do some blade work to it. Any other pointer are very welcome for re- assembly work I have in front of me. I have one other buck folder and i will go, and just remove the scales and install new handles on it. Thanks again very very much! I will post my finish knife soon I hope.

muskrat man · Post by **muskrat man** » Thu Jan 17, 2008 10:24 pm

all I can say is use a medium slackener and when you peen your pins peen the a BUNCH or lese they will sink when you cut them down flush. leave them a bit long and hit them like you're driving a nail, it will spread it the way it needs to be spread for a buck. good luck

nobullknives · Post by **nobullknives** » Mon Jan 28, 2008 5:25 pm

Muskrat man, I went and done it, I have done some simple file work on the main spring, This is addicting, the knife is going to look pretty good. I will put some (Water Buffalo Horn Red scales) on the knife should get them today. I have some time in the knife now but it will be worth the self satisfaction. I can learn by mistakes but would you mind giving me some pointers on puting it back togeather. I plan on using hidden pins. My big concern is the pins at the blade and main spring? The bushing in the blade looks to be in good shape so i will use it, is this a problem, should I add spacers so the blade works smooth on opening and closing? The pin for the main spring seems to be stainless very hard. I hope I am not out of line with Questions but this is one heck of a resource. Thanks for any info and if not I understand.

muskrat man · Post by **muskrat man** » Mon Jan 28, 2008 5:53 pm

looking good. on reassembly you can use the original bushing, just use a slackener and hit the pin to spread it inside the bolster, not just a peen do likewise on the two butt pins. the rocker pin you can cut down and peen on each side but don't overpeen it or you will crack the liner, just enough on each end to keep the pin from moving out of place and the liners spreading apart. If it was out of line, we wouldn't have a forum here regarding it

nobullknives · Post by **nobullknives** » Mon Jan 28, 2008 6:03 pm

Ok you used it twice, what the heck is a a medium slackener?
Stupid Me!
Thanks again!

orvet · Post by **orvet** » Mon Jan 28, 2008 6:54 pm

A slackner is a tool that is used to keep the knife liners from pinching the blade so tight it won't open after you peen the pivot pin.
You use it to leave a bit of a gap between the blade & a liner.

Here is a slackner I made.
I used a set of feeler guages & cut a slot in the end of the ones I use.
These are .016", .014" & .013" but you will have to ask MM what he means by "medium." I would guess about .013" if I had to guess.

You slide the slackner around the pin (hince the notch cut into the feeler guage), and hold it there while you peen the pin.
I think what MM is saying is you have to smack the snot out of the pin to get it to seat properly in the hole.
I try to get the pin mashed evenly down around the hole and onto the bolster.

I hope this helps,
Dale

Ringmaster · Post by **Ringmaster** » Mon Jan 28, 2008 7:07 pm

Hey Nobull,

I use a .015 feeler guage, with a notch cut in the center, so's it will slide past the pin. By medium slackener, MM may be going as thick as .020".

It keeps the liner/bolster from pinching the blade so tightly, that it won't open or close.

A picture's worth more words than I know... here's Ben Kelley's.

muskrat man · Post by **muskrat man** » Mon Jan 28, 2008 7:47 pm

medium for me is about .012 slackener. I normally use a .007 on regular slipjoints. I can never get the play out of the action when I use a .014 or .015 slackener

orvet · Post by **orvet** » Mon Jan 28, 2008 9:19 pm

Dang MM, I missed it by .001".

Dale

nobullknives · Post by **nobullknives** » Tue Jan 29, 2008 12:20 am

School is open, just want to say to all of U guys :muskrat man, orvet and Ringmaster THANK YOU for making it so simple and easy to understand plus the humor is great!

Diligence · Post by **Diligence** » Wed Jan 30, 2008 2:12 am

Dale - if "smacking" the pins knocks the snot out of them, then I'm wondering how that snot got in there in the first place?

LOL - reading on line is all I can do this week. It was -39Celcius this morning and with the wind it was -49 Celcius....whew - that garage is dang cold!

J

orvet · Post by **orvet** » Wed Jan 30, 2008 2:27 am

J-

The snot got in there from setting in your cold garage!
They caught pneumonia!!

Dale

Ringmaster · Post by **Ringmaster** » Wed Jan 30, 2008 2:44 am

Hey J,

Better bring in the brass monkey ! B-r-r-r-r......

JR

Diligence · Post by **Diligence** » Wed Jan 30, 2008 3:33 am

It's so cold that the brass monkey is now just an "as onkey"...

In fact, just figured out that driving 60mph on the highway is the equivalent of -94 F - I guess that's why the brakes didn't want to work too well...?

orvet · Post by **orvet** » Wed Jan 30, 2008 3:42 am

That is flat out colder than a well diggers lunchbox!

nobullknives · Post by **nobullknives** » Sun Feb 03, 2008 3:11 pm

First off I want to say thank you guys again. Save me a lot of trail and error. I did get some snot, but it was not from the pins. I made a mess with the epoxy and I didn't have enough hands. I used a .012 slackener and it worked very well. A little tight but work some valve grinding material in to the blade and bolisters and its like oringinal, walks and talks with good snap. Got into alittle trouble, we were going out to dinner the night I was installing the handles. I just kept a saying yes dear. We made it but alittle late. I will take another photo when I detail the knife and blade.

Thanks All !!

orvet · Post by **orvet** » Sun Feb 03, 2008 4:12 pm

nobullknives wrote: Got into a little trouble, we were going out to dinner the night I was installing the handles. I just kept a saying yes dear. We made it but alittle late.

I am very familiar with that scenario!

Dale

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