How about a (sticky) thread for tips on using the Lansky ?

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Lansky1
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Re: How about a (sticky) thread for tips on using the Lansky ?

Post by Lansky1 » Tue Nov 20, 2018 12:25 am

OLDE CUTLER wrote:Those of you who mentioned that the Lansky is not perfect are all correct. But for the bulk of pocket knife sharpening it works good enough. The very largest blades are a problem as are the very smallest. This topic is suffering from a lack of pictures to show different setups, so I spent some time to try to get something to show. Not that easy to get things setup to see the angles.
If you put the blade clamp on in different places, this will affect the angle somewhat. As shown below, if the clamp is too far back toward the handle, more metal seems to be ground unnecessarily from the tip. Shown on a Buck 110 for example
IMG_2533.JPG
I usually put the clamp on more toward the center or even more towards the tip to avoid this.
IMG_2534.JPG
When sharpening small pen blades, the stones can actually rub on the clamp, so I don't use the clamp for small blades. I hold the knife as shown with the hand resting on the table and using just the Lansky stone (fine diamond shown) without the guide rod, with the bottom end resting on the table. I try to approximate 25 degrees blade to stone angle while doing this. Just rock the top end of the stone back and forth towards and away from the tip.
IMG_2535.JPG
Turn over and do the other side.
IMG_2536.JPG
Small pen blades usually don't need that much to sharpen, and this method has worked for me.
Great tips - I mount the clamp on a clip blade in about the same spot as you do. I like your idea about sharpening little blades with Lansky stones freehand - I will most def try that. ::tu::
pffffft that's not a knife ......... now THAT'S a knife !! Crocodile Dundee

John

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ken98k
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Re: How about a (sticky) thread for tips on using the Lansky ?

Post by ken98k » Tue Nov 20, 2018 12:35 am

I've got one but don't care for it at all ::barf::
Nowadays I used a flat ceramic or ceramic rod almost exclusively. ::tu::
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Re: How about a (sticky) thread for tips on using the Lansky ?

Post by Lansky1 » Wed Nov 21, 2018 5:25 pm

ken98k wrote:I've got one but don't care for it at all ::barf::
just curious ... why don't you care for it ? I'm aware some feel it takes too much time to set up & they feel it isn't worth the hassle. Some would rather just grab an oil stone and have at it ? Thing is, I've never heard of anyone who learned to use the Lansky and didn't get better results than freehand sharpening. Don't get the wrong impression - I'm not grilling you, I'm just curious what you didn't like about the Lansky ... thx ::tu::
pffffft that's not a knife ......... now THAT'S a knife !! Crocodile Dundee

John

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Re: How about a (sticky) thread for tips on using the Lansky ?

Post by ken98k » Thu Nov 22, 2018 6:53 am

Lansky1 wrote:
ken98k wrote:I've got one but don't care for it at all ::barf::
just curious ... why don't you care for it ? I'm aware some feel it takes too much time to set up & they feel it isn't worth the hassle. Some would rather just grab an oil stone and have at it ? Thing is, I've never heard of anyone who learned to use the Lansky and didn't get better results than freehand sharpening. Don't get the wrong impression - I'm not grilling you, I'm just curious what you didn't like about the Lansky ... thx ::tu::
Like you said, takes too much time.
I am the NRA.

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Re: How about a (sticky) thread for tips on using the Lansky ?

Post by cbnutt » Fri Nov 23, 2018 6:06 pm

To me the main problem has been small wore down blades that I cant get the stone to touch because it hits the clamp first , on large blades , say like a buck 110 or something , it kind of runs out of stone about halfway through the blade , I guess on that you just kind of start over at that point , and use two strokes on the blade to get the full length covered .
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Re: How about a (sticky) thread for tips on using the Lansky ?

Post by Colonel26 » Fri Nov 23, 2018 10:30 pm

ken98k wrote:
Lansky1 wrote:
ken98k wrote:I've got one but don't care for it at all ::barf::
just curious ... why don't you care for it ? I'm aware some feel it takes too much time to set up & they feel it isn't worth the hassle. Some would rather just grab an oil stone and have at it ? Thing is, I've never heard of anyone who learned to use the Lansky and didn't get better results than freehand sharpening. Don't get the wrong impression - I'm not grilling you, I'm just curious what you didn't like about the Lansky ... thx ::tu::
Like you said, takes too much time.
I agree Ken. That and the fact that I like to put a nice long low angle bevel on mine and then a bit steeper secondary bevel. That clamp just gets in my way. If I want a 30° angle I’ll just use an ax.
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Re: How about a (sticky) thread for tips on using the Lansky ?

Post by Lansky1 » Sat Nov 24, 2018 4:24 am

Colonel26 wrote:I agree Ken. That and the fact that I like to put a nice long low angle bevel on mine and then a bit steeper secondary bevel. That clamp just gets in my way. If I want a 30° angle I’ll just use an ax.
It's all comes down to preference - I can get an absolutely scary sharp perfectly formed edge using the 30 degree setting on the Lansky running through the various diamond stones ... I've never needed to go any lower & can't imagine anyone would need a knife any sharper. One thing that hasn't been mentioned yet is the 30 degree edge is much more durable than a steeper angle - it holds up better & lasts longer between sharpenings. We're getting into preferences, which isn't the intent of this thread, so ::handshake:: ...
pffffft that's not a knife ......... now THAT'S a knife !! Crocodile Dundee

John

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Re: How about a (sticky) thread for tips on using the Lansky ?

Post by Lansky1 » Sat Nov 24, 2018 4:33 am

cbnutt wrote:To me the main problem has been small wore down blades that I cant get the stone to touch because it hits the clamp first , on large blades , say like a buck 110 or something , it kind of runs out of stone about halfway through the blade , I guess on that you just kind of start over at that point , and use two strokes on the blade to get the full length covered .
FYI ... I've learned over time to take about 5-8 strokes per side - seems to work best ... don't have to get the whole length of the blade in one swipe like you might with a full size oil stone.
pffffft that's not a knife ......... now THAT'S a knife !! Crocodile Dundee

John

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Re: How about a (sticky) thread for tips on using the Lansky ?

Post by UnderDawgAl » Wed Nov 28, 2018 2:50 am

I use the Smith-branded sharpening system, which is basically a poor man's Lansky. It has both the strengths and weaknesses of the Lansky as outlined above. The Smith that I have only gives you two angle choices--20 and 25 degrees.

I find the greatest strength of this type of system is its ability to quickly show you how even or uneven the factory edge is. Here's how: When you first start sharpening a blade with one of the included stones or diamond-grit bars, you can run your finger tip across the blade at all points to see if you're creating a wire edge consistently along the whole length of the blade. Often, I've found that one or more spots on the blade don't roll the wire edge over to the opposite side of the blade. That tells me I need to spend some time on those spots until a wire edge forms. At that point, I can then proceed with normal sharpening. This has primarily been necessary for me.on stainless steel blades.

My system has just two diamond-grit bars, with the coarse being around 350 grit and the fine being 600 grit.
I wanted a keener edge, so I bought sandpaper in grits of 1K, 1.5K, 2K, 3K, 5K, and 7K. I didnt buy all those at once but acquired them over a few months. I then cut a piece of sandpaper of each grit just large enough to wrap.around the sharpening bar. That way, I can maintain the same angle and hone each blade going up to 7000 grit.

After a few months of enjoying the satisfaction of getting the blades so sharp, i began to just sharpen to whatever grit I feel like, based on time constraints and the number of times my young kids interrupt me.

For the blades that are too small for the clamp, I worked on developing and improving my free hand technique.

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Re: How about a (sticky) thread for tips on using the Lansky ?

Post by cbnutt » Fri Dec 07, 2018 7:17 pm

Liking mine so far , I may need to get some diamond stones for it .
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Re: How about a (sticky) thread for tips on using the Lansky ?

Post by sparkyv » Sun Dec 30, 2018 2:29 am

Lansky1 wrote:I’ll start ....

- put a little piece of blue painters tape on the top edge of the knife where it mounts in the jig to prevent those annoying tell tale Lansky scratches.

- watch the inside of your right hand - if you slip, the blade tip is very close to the inside of your wrist

- I have tried all 4 sharpening angles & have settled on using the top hole (30 degrees). It seems to work perfectly for all of my slip joints ... and the best part is I always know which angle to use regardless of what knife I’m re-sharpening

- the standard stones dish out from wear over time - but the diamond stones always stay flat as the diamond sharpening media is bonded to a steel plate. It’s worth it to me to pony up for the diamond set

- I’ve Found the single most important part of the Lansky system is to buy the mounting base so it’s stable - trying to freehand that Lansky clamp is actually quite dangerous.

Much wisdom from Lansky1. I upgraded to the diamond stones, and they took this tool to a whole new level. I just sharpen until I feel the burr, flip, repeat, do this once again, and then move to the next stone and do the same. Then I finish with stropping to get rid of any remaining burr. I have settled on the 25° setting, and it works pretty well for me, but I may try the 30° to see how that performs. One other thing I do; the hole the rod goes through has a lot of slop, so I place my finger over (under is ok, too) the rod, behind the hole to reduce the slop. Taught my son to use it; didn't take him long to get excellent results. ::tu::
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Re: How about a (sticky) thread for tips on using the Lansky ?

Post by Lansky1 » Sun Dec 30, 2018 3:43 am

sparkyv wrote:
Lansky1 wrote:I’ll start ....

- put a little piece of blue painters tape on the top edge of the knife where it mounts in the jig to prevent those annoying tell tale Lansky scratches.

- watch the inside of your right hand - if you slip, the blade tip is very close to the inside of your wrist

- I have tried all 4 sharpening angles & have settled on using the top hole (30 degrees). It seems to work perfectly for all of my slip joints ... and the best part is I always know which angle to use regardless of what knife I’m re-sharpening

- the standard stones dish out from wear over time - but the diamond stones always stay flat as the diamond sharpening media is bonded to a steel plate. It’s worth it to me to pony up for the diamond set

- I’ve Found the single most important part of the Lansky system is to buy the mounting base so it’s stable - trying to freehand that Lansky clamp is actually quite dangerous.

Much wisdom from Lansky1. I upgraded to the diamond stones, and they took this tool to a whole new level. I just sharpen until I feel the burr, flip, repeat, do this once again, and then move to the next stone and do the same. Then I finish with stropping to get rid of any remaining burr. I have settled on the 25° setting, and it works pretty well for me, but I may try the 30° to see how that performs. One other thing I do; the hole the rod goes through has a lot of slop, so I place my finger over (under is ok, too) the rod, behind the hole to reduce the slop. Taught my son to use it; didn't take him long to get excellent results. ::tu::
Nice - glad you like the Lansky. Agree - it's such an easy system to use, doesn't take much experience with it to get excellent results. ::handshake::
pffffft that's not a knife ......... now THAT'S a knife !! Crocodile Dundee

John

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