All About Pocket Knives

Yeah James I have noticed that too. She's a stunner BTW.

Singin47

PLEASE back off of jfarmers Hammer Brands from the 1940's and 1950's.

I have been dreaming of owning some for 2 years now...

BamaFatman wrote:I have a question about the outgasing problem I have a couple from the Pre 82 time frame and have seen no problems with them. So why has the become a huge problme in the later knives?

Next question is will it hurt my knives that are not gasing to treat the scales with Ren-Wax?

I think a lot of older knives have outgassed and have been gone a while, we might just never hear about them. I have a 2005 Bulldog Saddlehorn with waterfall celluloid that is out gassing as we speak. I'll pop off the scales - like I've been meaning to for the last month.

I don't recall seeing an Imperial with outgassing.

I don't really know why, but I sure see plenty. I almost don't want to buy anything but natural materials.

Thanks Perry

Ken

Hukk, I stick with natural handle materials for the most part but for some reason I am drawn to those old Imperials. I just love those colorful handles I guess

James

I read this thread about the knife rolls that James is selling, so I ordered one. I have been so busy I haven't even been on the forum much lately. I just wanted to pop in and tell James that I got the roll last week & I love it.
Super product at a most reasonable price!

Thanks James!

Dale

PS- Now that you mention it, though I have several Imperial & Imperial Hammer Brands (as opposed to NY Knife Hammer Brand), I can't recall ever seeing one of them outgas.

Thats great Dale. I'm glad you like it and thanks for letting me know that you received it

James

i thought most imperials and hammers the handle material is like a shell--skin????

This is an old Thread.

I found it after a search about Hickory Hill knife rolls. I have stored knives in them for about 15 years and have liked the ease of use, soft lining material, and quality of the leather straps. But, I too am now experiencing something reactive happening with the elastic bands, and it leaves a hard, dark encrustation on plastic handles and bolsters. I have removed it from a few knives with Simichrome polish.

Does anyone know if the makers of this product have done anything to address this shortcoming, or if there is overall a better product out there?

As for storage in boxes as an alternative: I just do not see that as being feasible; only rolls seem to allow me to store all my folders where they are in a small area and are otherwise fully-secure. Other than this one problem, my storage method has been as kind to my knives as I could ever have hoped for -- no rust or mildew (celluloids are stored elsewhere).

.

My suggestion would be sack-ups knife rolls - the only issue is that you only get 18 knives to a roll (they also make a 6 and 12 knife roll) - they are made of soft cushioned silicon treated material and a few of us quite like them... No straps and just a pocket for each knife to slip into for storage - They are not quite good for wide knives but I do have a few 5" long knives in them - Hawkbills don't fit very well so for those I had to resort to storage boxes lined with anti-tarnish silverware cloth... One other thing about sack-ups rolls is you need to have a system to find the knives for future searching - I number the rolls and keep a separate running sheet with each roll # & pocket # and accordingly what is in it... just my suggestion and there may be others... BTW - I only use the Hickory type rolls for very short 1-2 day storage when necessary for transporting many knives...

Your experience with Hickory Hill rolls is similar to mine but my catastrophe occurred years ago. Same issue - the elastic bands outgassed. Not sure if it was actually "outgassing" but the symptoms of damage was similar to celluloid outgassing, with the bulk of the damage being to nickel silver bolsters and shields that were in contact with the elastic bands.

My storage preference is also Sackups. https://www.sackups.com My solution to the issue Lee described is to write on a small piece of paper what is in each roll, fold it and slip it under the ties that hold each roll closed. Whittlers, scouts, jacks, stockmans, and so on is visible on the paper from the outside. It's easy to pull the slip of paper out from under the tie and unfold it to read the detailed list/description of what's in the roll. If what I'm looking for isn't in that roll, just re-fold the list and slip the paper back under the tie. Never have to unfold the roll.

Ken

Thank you both for those suggestions.

Mumbleypeg: You mean that the elastic bands caused permanent damage to the metal, such as pitting; not just an inconvenient clean-up of deposited residue?

stumpstalker wrote:
Mumbleypeg: You mean that the elastic bands caused permanent damage to the metal, such as pitting; not just an inconvenient clean-up of deposited residue?

Yes. I was able to remove most of it but there was pitting on a few knives. Plus I've never been able to fully restore a factory finish with Semichrome or Flitz. Maybe someone else wouldn't notice the places it was used, but I can tell (maybe just because I know where to look). The finish in those areas is duller in appearance. I could probably buff it out, but that has its own set of other problems. The shield on this one is a good example - right where the elastic was holding the knife.

Ken

Mumblypeg:

Well, Wednesday a.m. I had to travel. So, before even seeing your last post which came later in the morning, I put all Thanksgiving celebration preparations on hold and took the knives out of my two Hickory Hill rolls, cleaned off whatever deterioration I could find (blades; bolsters, end-caps, handles) and placed the knives into a different storage state.

I had thought for many years that my best knives were in my two best rolls…..bad assumption. My eternal vigilance had lapsed.

I agree with you that buffing out the discrepancies caused by the elastic straps just adds a second layer of problems. Arresting active deterioration and cleaning-up is one thing; but, the next step, one more of effacement, can risk crossing a line into deception, guile and artifice. And, that’s not good.

I will try some Sack-Up rolls.

Has Hickory Hill ever commented on this problem?

Thank you, again.

I'm glad I found this thread I just recently decided to start using knife rolls and bought one each of the Hickory Hill and Sack ups rolls. I preferred the Sack Ups but after reading this thread I think I'll sell this Hickory Hill before I have problems.

Sack-Ups and shoe/boot boxes is all I have ever used!!
John

Lee,Peanut740 told me about Sackups that are wider for sunfish, pruners and such, I just don’t remember which.

wlf wrote:Lee,Peanut740 told me about Sackups that are wider for sunfish, pruners and such, I just don’t remember which.

Probably a model 809. https://www.sackups.com/store/category/knives Check around the Internet for prices - may be able to find for less money from a dealer than from Sackup direct. Also Shepherd Hills and many others who sell knives carry Sackups but not sure which models they have.

Ken

These type of folding holders have never given me any problems and I've been using them for 15 years or maybe more (some less).

42 knife briefcase 48 knife. I also have a 72 knife with three folders in it. These are my favorites but I'm having trouble finding them. I think they were made by Hickory Hill but wouldn't swear on it. There are others but the pictures are not handy right now.

I do not know how well it would stick to vinyl; I have the Pilot brand gold and silver markers. Shake it and then usually have to depress the tip to let it start to flow. Check a office supply.

I’ve had the ones Jerry has now for 6 or 7 years without any problems except for humidity causing spiders and such. The Sackups are supposed to be better humidity protection.

I miss the ease of viewing that the folders afforded.

knife7knut wrote: ↑Mon Dec 17, 2007 5:22 pm The outgassing problem seems to strike with much randomness;I have several celluloid handled knives dating from the 1930's that are like new.I also have a Robeson swing guard that the pile side handle disintegrated some time ago and the mark side handle is unscathed.I have a couple old Aerials that I oiled once and the oil got to the pictures under the celluloid and destroyed them but the handles are intact.The only predictable thing about celluloid is that it is unpredictable.I wish I had the answer as I have lost several nice knives to outgassing.

I was sent a link to this thread today - as I am still learning stuff, my question is: what does these terms mean

"the pile side handle disintegrated some time ago and the mark side handle is unscathed"

When a pocket knife is assembled at the factory, the parts are placed, one at a time, into a fixture that holds them all in place until the rivet/pins that will hold them together is placed into the pieces. The parts are “piled” into the fixture in the proper order - therefore the side on the bottom of the pile is the “pile” side.

The other side, or top side as the parts are assembled, is the side onto which the maker’s mark (name) aka stamp typically appears. Thus, it’s the “mark” side. The mark side is the opposite side of the pile side. Since you’re interested in learning I’d recommend watching this video. The knife assembly is performed at about 4:40 into the video.

Ken

great - thanks!