All About Pocket Knives

I have a few old knives I need to get cleaned. All are Original and not altered in any way. Just need someone who is reputable and does a really good job cleaning them. If any body can refer one,would be appreciated....Roy

Hi Roy. I can't answer your question, but would like to add to it.
I have some knives that have laid around for 15, 20 yrs, never been cleaned. I'm wanting to clean them. What should I use? I bought some Ren-wax and tried that, but it don't seem to take out tarnish or black marks. Is it more for protecting than cleaning? I was thinking about a silver cleaner or the Ren-wax on a buffing pad on my Dremel, but I thought I'd check around first.
Thanks
Ed

I use a number two lead pencil. Takes off the oxide of rust but doesn't scratch the surface. Will not make a dark blade shiny. Will give a soft sheen to a poor old abused blade without removing any metal. An "carpenter's pencil" works well too. just scrub whatever with the lead until you're happy with it. Wipe it off with a soft cloth, oil it and carry on.

Works well on blued gun finishes too. Won't remove factory bluing. Might take off cold blue, though. Never tried it on a gun that was cold blued.

My 2¢ worth.
W

Are you wanting someone to actually clean your knives for you or are you wanting suggestions on good cleaners to use?.......if the latter..I use a brand of polishing cream called MAAS..and if its real bad a use .ooo steel wool first then the MAAS.

Semichrome is another brand that comes to mind and is sold in some of the AAPK stores here on our forum.

If this is NOT an APRIL FOOLS joke

Try this.

1.)Clean if necessary. I have Flitz
Yes very good with old clean t-shirt. I go in were the blades rest too.
I use Q-tips or a cardboard emery nail file rapped with a CLEAN t-shirt.
This way you can get in between the brass liners,and down in them too.

2.)Use the tuff glide on the joints and on the insides of the knife.
Good. just need a drop on the joints.

3.)Use Ren Wax on blades, bolsters, and backsprings.
I use Ren wax on all the knife even inside.again Q-tip or file with rag.
You NEED to let the wax DRY before removing it. Just like waxing your car. I use that soft cloth to remove the dyed wax. You can wash the rag, but not with any sandy cloths. Same parts of sand will scratch the bolsters bad. Ren wax is like a sealer. What is in stays in and keeps out things that you want out like moisture. This will help the handles from drying out and shrinking.

4.A)Use Ren Wax on the handle material. Sort of my question area simply because I find the Ren Wax dries fairly quick and on rougher material does not come of easy.
OK here you need to think some. If it is REAL STAG use a Q-tip clean with Flitz first (the hole knife) except any lettering on the blade or handle. Then ONLY Formbys Lemon Oil (not any other lemon oil) on the stag if some gets on the steel or bolsters its ok. Let sit for a day. wipe off stag with clean rag. Then Ren Wax all the knife.

4.B)Wype down handle material with a very light coating of mineral oil or lemon oil.
This I do not do this my last step is the ren wax. I do not want any thing on top of my sealer (Ren Wax). NOT EVEN FINGER PRINTS.

Well this is what I do. (but Celluloid handles are a different story)

Honestly Roy if those are old vintage knives in excellent condition and not covered with rust, I'd just oil them and leave them be. If there's rust hit it with some super fine steel wool and oil, but just make sure you get any wool bits off or they'll rust in no time. Leave the patina on, it's part of the knife. Maybe hit the bolsters with a little polish but that's about it. Bone or stag handles see justold52's post above.
Any time a knife is ground and buffed (with a buffer) like a piece of jewelry you've pretty much destroyed its collector value and smoothed off the swedges and edges to the point it doesn't resemble anything a cuttler would have produced years ago. Same goes for those God forsaken Dremels. If it's a knife you plan on using, or some old rusty thing that needs some TLC, that's another story.

Eric

Here are some knives my friend Michael wants me to clean and polish up before putting them in his sales display.
I don't think they will need any more than removing the pocket lint and a little metal polish but the cleaver is a
different story. Looking for recommendations on if I should even try anything with it, leave it as is, or throw it back
in the water.

I don't think you could do much to hurt the cleaver. I would use a bench grinder with a wire wheel to remove the active rust and then apply some oil to the metal surfaces.

White vinegar soak will remove the rust without leaving any marks on the blade.