All About Pocket Knives

Hi folks,
The tang says “swan works” Might the handle be horn? It seems kind of dry, can that be possible? How to clean the rust off? Grinder? I am thanking you.

knive

P.S. Thanks to Sarah too for instructions

Knives, wellcome to the forum. I'm not proclaiming to be an expert on the issue of cleaning a knife. I have my own methods of cleaning that suits me, but let me say this- PLEASE DON"T USE A GRINDER. I use a product called BreakFree for removing the rust from the blades and down in the trench (inside, my own term) of the knife. I haven't found it to harm the handles, if some were to get on them, however, try to keep that contact to a minimum. I let the BreakFree to soak overnight then use "OOOO" steel wool to lift the rust. Use a soft cotton T-shirt to wipe the knife & blades clean. Some of the folks here use mineral oil on rust. I, personally can't speak for it's effectiveness, but others do. As far as the handles go, there is another product called "Walker Wax". It states specifically on the label that it can be used on bone, metal,wood,stone,and plastic. You'll find a lot of different approaches to cleaning a knife. I have borrowed a little from all, and have found what works for me. You'll find a lot of great suggestions from the forum members here. Great looking knife! Show some before and after shots. I'd like to see it cleaned up!

Hi Sarah, welcome to the forum.

I agree - please do not use a grinder or a sander. You appear to have a very nice knife from Swan Werks (1920 -?) from Solingen, Germany. The easy open style of knife you have was popular in the 1920s-1940s, so your knife may date to that time frame (not sure). I can't tell if the handles are horn or celluloid. I use an old T-shirt, fine polishing paste, and lots of elbow grease to remove rust - although there are many different ways to remove rust without damaging the knife. I am sure you receive several methods in the responses here. The trick is to remove the rust without harming / removing any metal. A grinder or sander will remove way to much metal, and greatly lower the value (and appearance) of the knife.

Regards,
Unk

Unk wrote:Hi Sarah, welcome to the forum.

I agree - please do not use a grinder or a sander. You appear to have a very nice knife from Swan Werks (1920 -?) from Solingen, Germany. The easy open style of knife you have was popular in the 1920s-1940s, so your knife may date to that time frame (not sure). I can't tell if the handles are horn or celluloid. I use an old T-shirt, fine polishing paste, and lots of elbow grease to remove rust - although there are many different ways to remove rust without damaging the knife. I am sure you receive several methods in the responses here. The trick is to remove the rust without harming / removing any metal. A grinder or sander will remove way to much metal, and greatly lower the value (and appearance) of the knife.

Regards,
Unk

Unk,

I had to edit my original post, you were mis-led to think I was Sarah, by my closing the post by thanking her for posting instructions, sorry. However don't ever let that stop you from trying to help anybody, it was my mistake. So far I have had two suggestions and I will try, but a grinder is faster.
Sincerely, Kevin

Method number three.

I use a number 2 lead pencil. I oil the blades with whatever oil seems to be handy at the moment and use the pencil lead to scrub the blades. It won't scratch and it will remove rust. It will not shine the steel to other than a dull gloss and the pits will be black. When I get tired of messing with it, I wipe it of with a shop towel and re-oil oil it.

Mineral oil will help dried out horn. Just pitch the knife in a small jar or bottle of it and let it sit there and soak for a day or three.

Welcome to the forum.

Willie

Pencil "lead" is a mixture of Graphite, clay and water. I would not recommend using it on carbon steel, stainless, aluminum, or any other metal except pure gold. To do so would only promote corrosion, not prevent or stop it.


The use of graphite is limited by its tendency to facilitate pitting corrosion in some stainless steel, and to promote galvanic corrosion between dissimilar metals (due to its electrical conductivity). It is also corrosive to aluminium in the presence of moisture. For this reason, the US Air Force banned its use as a lubricant in aluminium aircraft, and discouraged its use in aluminium-containing automatic weapons. Even graphite pencil marks on aluminium parts may facilitate corrosion.

Wipe it down with a light coating of mineral oil and leave it alone. The bone handle should be wiped down with mineral oil, not soaked, as soaking will discolor the bone.

MB,

I'm gonna argue with you a bit on the pencil graphite. It has been my experience in the last 35 years of using that trick on everything from Browning Superposed shotguns to old spurs. I've never had a problem with the steel re-rusting due to the graphite. If you've ever messed with an old Browning you know those damn things will rust if you look at 'em wrong. I've never scratched the bluing with that trick and all it has ever done is simply to get the rust out of the pits. I have seen more than one bluing job messed up with polishes and steel wool where somebody wore through the bluing around a pitted area. I have also had good experience with well used piece of 0000 steel wool soaked in mineral oil. I always wipe it off with a damp oily rag and finish with a clean rag to see if I got it all off and then re-oil it.

I don't live anywhere near a coast and the air pollution here is rarely an issue. The biggest problem I've seen around here as far as rusting goes is from temperature changes and condensation after a cold spell when the warm fronts come in. I keep all of my better knives inside where the temperature swings are minimal. Got a few out in the shop that don't get treated so nice and they rust. I also have a little anvil out there with a polished face and if I don't keep that damn thing greased, it rusts as soon I turn my back on it as do a couple of hammers that I polish the faces on. No big deal on them as I can hit 'em on the buffer and bring the shine back. The anvil is a bit more of a problem.

I'm with you about not using it on non ferrous metals that will corrode.

W