The 165OT PRACTICAL woodsman
Posted: Mon May 30, 2011 10:59 pm
Long have I seen great potential in the design of the 165OT "woodsman" pattern. But it's poorly shaped and ground blade for skinning operations has kept me from using one for more than 5 minutes. The blade's grind, comparable to that of an axe makes it not only hard to sharpen, but a poor slicer. In my mind, the usefulness of an up-swept blade is VERY limited. Not to mention the blocky uncomfortable guard. Normally you see me making knives prettier. Well this time I'm making one more useful. I'll explain some of the modifications made to make this knife a "PRACTICAL" woods knife, rather than a cleverly named axe in knife's clothing.
The first thing to get modified was the blade, a well proportioned drop point blade will do everything a trailing point will do and more. It makes gutting and field dressing easier, less chance of slicing the guts, and it keeps the point away from the meat the same as it does the stomach when making the starting cuts to skin.
The guard's factory configuration is blocky and uncomfortable. I blended the top in to the spine of the tang, and added some contour to the bottom portion. This also aided in about 3/16" of extra hand room which is welcome, as the factory handle is short. Especially for my big hands. I also narrowed the guard into about 1/16" above the handle.
These blades are ground like an axe from the factory. I thinned the blade and heightened the grind to make it a better slicer that will take a better edge easier. You can see the difference it made in this shot from the spine. Which would you rather try to sharpen?
The first thing to get modified was the blade, a well proportioned drop point blade will do everything a trailing point will do and more. It makes gutting and field dressing easier, less chance of slicing the guts, and it keeps the point away from the meat the same as it does the stomach when making the starting cuts to skin.
The guard's factory configuration is blocky and uncomfortable. I blended the top in to the spine of the tang, and added some contour to the bottom portion. This also aided in about 3/16" of extra hand room which is welcome, as the factory handle is short. Especially for my big hands. I also narrowed the guard into about 1/16" above the handle.
These blades are ground like an axe from the factory. I thinned the blade and heightened the grind to make it a better slicer that will take a better edge easier. You can see the difference it made in this shot from the spine. Which would you rather try to sharpen?
