All About Pocket Knives

I restore tools, old lanterns, and have done some knives this way. I came across this tip on a lantern restoration site, molasses!

http://www.lanternnet.com/faqs.htm

My method varies a little from theirs but overall it is similar. Here is what I do: Take a 12 oz. bottle of Grandma's or Brer Rabbit sulphurated blaskstrap molasses and dump the contents in a 3-5 gallon covered bucket. (I use one of the red & yellow cat sand bucks with snap-top lid.). It's best to start with hot water as it aids the distribution of the molasses evenly though the water, stir in until the water is an even color. Dunk the bottle in too and rinse out all the dregs after you dumped the molasses out. Then put the item to be derusted in the solution. Let it sit for 24 hours then take the item out and scrub it with a stainless-steel wire brush. I buy the Lincoln welding brushes at Home Depot as they are 4x the size of the Harbor Freight toothbrushes and they retain their bristles a lot longer. Scrubbing loosens the rust top layer and exposes what's underneath it to the action of the solution.

Put the item back in the solution and let it soak some more. The longer it soaks the better it works although you will likely need to scrub the item a few more times before you've removed all the rust. Once it is derusted to your satisfaction, rinse the item thoroughly in fresh water, dry immediately, then lightly oil. The molasses solution will loosen some paints but is fine on plating. I am not sure about plastic but have a knife with plastic scales soaking in it right now and will update after it is done. The best thing is that it does not do any harm to solid metal, it only goes after rust and grease/oil too. The downside is the stuff reeks after a few days if uncovered. It will also develop a foamy scum on the top that you can skim off with a paper towel. Eventually some mold will form too but that can be skimmed off as well. I usually dump it after a month. You can make much smaller amounts than 3-5 gallons worth. I make the big dose because I fill the bucket up with many items and process them en masse. It works spectacularly on cast iron pans, they come out looking new.

I'll have t try that instead of my usual acid dip. I've accidentally removed a few tool makers stamps when I got busy and forgot to go pull out of the bucket.

Iron Hoarder wrote:I'll have t try that instead of my usual acid dip. I've accidentally removed a few tool makers stamps when I got busy and forgot to go pull out of the bucket.

Yep, I destroyed a couple very cool tools with sulfuric acid when I forgot about them over the weekend. I was very skeptical when I first read about molasses but am a total fan now. I am always picking up old tools and don't even bother checking them out until after they soak for 24 hours. Grease, dirt, and minor corrosion (orange haze & light scale) are usually gone overnight.

Hey, and it's environmentally friendly with biodegradable waste.

Don't reckon that scrubbing with the stainless steel brush has anything to do with the rust removal, do ya??

tjmurphy wrote:Don't reckon that scrubbing with the stainless steel brush has anything to do with the rust removal, do ya??

Of course it does as with any rust-removal sequence with any chemical. The scale is loosened/dissolved by the agent, is this case, molasses and the brush cleans it away. The beauty of this is cost hence the el cheapo moniker, I paid $3 for the molasses and can dunk entire large objects.

This sound alot like the pepsi cola soak??? I'm with you TJ, I think scrubbing with a wire brush in addition to the ol' fashion elbow de' grease is the "rust remover" ingredient in this recipe. However to each his own... if it feels so right, how can it be wrong Mr. Novice

Rocky

ROCKY1122 wrote:This sound alot like the pepsi cola soak??? I'm with you TJ, I think scrubbing with a wire brush in addition to the ol' fashion elbow de' grease is the "rust remover" ingredientin this recipe.

Rocky

I've been restoring tools for a long time and have been through soda blasting, walnut shell blasting, naval jelly, cola soaks, muriatic acid dips, and Kroil. Still have electrolysis on the "to do" list though. Most rust removal requires some surface abrasion via brushing. I am only passing along the method I switched to, it is cheap and it works for me, you are welcome not to try it yourself.

Didn't mean to bristle up your wire brush Having been a steelworker for MANY a years and cleaned my share oh metal over dem years, There's more to what a person might considers to be "cost effective" than the price of a jar of molasses! Time and energy spent might be considered as well and balance the other when your on a tight schedule or have a heavy work load and time constraints. But, as a fellow red blooded american with an open mind...If it feels so right...it can't be all wrong God bless Grandma's Molasses and the U. S. of A.

Rocky

ROCKY1122 wrote: Didn't mean to bristle up your wire brush Having been a steelworker for MANY a years and cleaned my share oh metal over dem years, There's more to what a person might considers to be "cost effective" than the price of a jar of molasses! Time and energy spent might be considered as well and balance the other when your on a tight schedule or have a heavy work load and time constraints. But, as a fellow red blooded american with an open mind...If it feels so right...it can't be all wrong God bless Grandma's Molasses and the U. S. of A.

Rocky

What do you consider cost, time, or energy effective to remove rust?

I have been using a variation on that for years. I buy dried molasses at a feed and seed store that is used to make horse and cow feed. Put in water and make a dark tea. Soak rusty item and check periodically and rinse when ready.

My dear friend, we are not at odds. If you feel as though this is a cost effective method to use then more power to ya! The folks at AAPK I believe are bright, informed, and believe in free speech. It is clear to me that you value your new found method. I appreciate that, and in no way am saying that others shouldn't try it. What I am saying is... as you have your opinion I have the freedom to mine and I have expressed it.
Rocky

ROCKY1122 wrote: My dear friend, we are not at odds. If you feel as though this is a cost effective method to use then more power to ya! The folks at AAPK I believe are bright, informed, and believe in free speech. It is clear to me that you value your new found method. I appreciate that, and in no way am saying that others shouldn't try it. What I am saying is... as you have your opinion I have the freedom to mine and I have expressed it.
Rocky

Huh? I asked what other methods of rust removal you found effective. How does that put us at odds or make this a free speech issue. I am very confused and apologize, for what I am not completely sure.

P.S.- Many products as you know rely on some form of acid either phosphoric or oxalic to do the job of rust removal. However these are expensive and are toxic but save time and energy,(elbow grease) in the restoration process. To avoid toxic chemicasl and cost factors other folks have turned to resources such as we have mentioned in the thread above as alternatives that have a very mild acidic base or content. These no doubt are cost effective but you loose time in the duration of the process and still have to expend energy brushing or scrubbing the project many times to reach the desired effect. This can be difficult if you have a deadline on a restoration project. In some cases I use white vinegar which has the most acid content you can get along with baking soda, 500 plus grit sand paper,surgical steel wool and or my trusty Dremel and it's attachments. Happy cleaning!

Rocky

Posting is slow for me and I'm sorry for the misunderstanding. Hoped what I said was not offensive
Rocky

ROCKY1122 wrote:Posting is slow for me and I'm sorry for the misunderstanding. Hoped what I said was not offensive
Rocky

I don't think anyone has taken offense here Rocky. I think we are all good and on the same page.

I love molasses and have some in the cupboard. I intend to try your method on some old knives that look like they came out the bottom of a boat bilge. They are in rough condition. If it will work on those knives I think it should be great on less rusty knives.

Thanks Dale. My suggestion is to use baking soda and vinegar. If this is something you havn't tried,depending on the size project, mix enough vinegar in the baking soda to make a paste then apply it directly the the rust and let it sit for an hour or so then wipe away and rinse. For the bigger jobs I have boiled the project in vinegar and water and was amazed at the outcome, it can lighten the dye coloration in bone handled knives, please be careful. I also sit the project up and off the bottom of the large pot so the heat is not distorting or damaging the knife in any way. Never tried molasses to clean rust off a knife, but like you I eat it on bread with butter or mixed with peanutbutter and it sure does the trick to remove the hunger out of my appetite.

Rocky

If I had to guess your profession I would say you were a chef of some kind

I do love to cook, but having been a jack of all trades and master of none, I currently work in the medical field as Psych.,Clinician, R.N. and work part time on a Peds I.C.U.
Rocky

citric acid works great as a rust remover too

If molasses will remove rust from metal, I can't help but wonder what it does to me when I eat it on a biscuit. I'll have to bake up a batch and see.

Update:

Molasses is great for cleaning plates too!

philco wrote:If molasses will remove rust from metal, I can't help but wonder what it does to me when I eat it on a biscuit. I'll have to bake up a batch and see.

Update:

Molasses is great for cleaning plates too!

Let's see, you spread the molasses on the plate, immerse it in hot soapy water and scrub with a sponge. Rinse and let dry.

Phil, I just got rid of some rust earlier today by eating some molasses. My wife says I don't squeak anymore.

That what keeps you singing "like a girl"?

tjmurphy wrote:

philco wrote:If molasses will remove rust from metal, I can't help but wonder what it does to me when I eat it on a biscuit. I'll have to bake up a batch and see.

Update:

Molasses is great for cleaning plates too!

Let's see, you spread the molasses on the plate, immerse it in hot soapy water and scrub with a sponge. Rinse and let dry.

Nope. It's spread on plate. Lick clean.

On a different chicken - did y'all lick your plate when you were young? You don't see that anymore. I guess it's considered improper.

There was an old hardware store in Birmingham AL about ten years back. It was somewhere around Richard Arrington Jr. Blvd and 1st Ave which was just south of the downtown YMCA. They sold 5 lb cans (like a quart paint can) of some really, really good sorghum molasses. My daddy used to say the better the molasses was, the lighter the color.

Oh! Did I wander off again? Sorry.