All About Pocket Knives

I have a kitchen butcher knife that has been in the family for quite sometime and is still used. I think I have identified it as a ForgeCraft Hi-Carbon 11 3/4 inch Butcher Knife. At least thats what I think it is? Not sure how old it would be as couldnt find data on it.

My question relates to fixing the handle. The two rivets seem to be popping out and the wood is loose. I would like to take it apart and remove the rust that has accumulated and then put it back together.
Can I gently pry the one side out of the rivet? Is it just a male female rivet that has corroded tightly together as it doesnt seem to want to budge and I dont want to destroy it.
The knife holds a hell of an edge so I dont want to destroy it - just preserve it for another hundred years. Im guessing this knife might be in the 50s or 60s but dont have a clue.

Would appreciate any suggestions
Mike

I moved this inquiry to this forum in hopes that some of you fine repairmen could give this gentleman some advice. It has been sitting unanswered in another forum for nearly two months.

Phil

Try gently prying the handles apart from the inside between the back of the handle and the tang (upper part where the handle is fastened) of the blade. The pins should slide apart. If the wood feels like it's going to start to have too much "give" in it, try a wider prying instrument or perhaps some wooden wedges. If the pins just aren't going to budge, cut them off and let us know the size of the holes. I've got a supply of those fasteners, so sending a couple to you won't hurt me. Good old sandpaper to remove the rust and maybe a protective coating before the handles go back on and you're in business. Keep us posted.

Bob beat me too it, but essentially I would have said the same thing.
I have rehandled and rebuilt a bunch of old knives like that, and I have not had any luck prying the rivets apart.
Most of us who work on knives have plenty enough rivets to spare a couple.

This is the same thing, only different.
At home depot you can buy bare copper wire in, what I think, are large sizes.
If you have a 1 through 60 number drill bit gage the largest size I can get is #6, .204. Almost 7/32".
I also get #20, .161 around 5/32". These numbers are drill bit sizes. HD uses some other electrical ID.
It works quite well.

Those home made copper wire rivets look nice on that Joe.
The rivets only cost about $0.30 a pair.
The copper wire may be more expensive, depending on how much you have to buy.
But I really like the way those peened copper rivets look!!!

Thank you, Dale.
The copper wire isn't too expensive. I bought 3 or 4 feet in 3 different sizes just so I'd have enough. I like to use it for different things.
I appreciate the compliment. Especially from someone with your skills.

PM sent

If you guys ever need any scrap copper wire, let me know, I work for an electrical contractor...

Thanks for all the replies and tips and now I am sure I can do it. Its still in the condition it was before so will gladly give it a go. I love these old kitchen knives and gol darn they are sharp.

I also like the copper handmade rivet job that looks cool. Since its a "used" knife I think it would be neat to try that peened wire option.


Thanks again

Mike

Mike,
if you have questions please shoot me a PM.

glennbad wrote:If you guys ever need any scrap copper wire, let me know, I work for an electrical contractor...

Mental note taken Glenn. I'm a retired Phoneman, but Dad was a general contractor and knew it all. Carpentry, electrical, plumbing, you name it. I worked with him from the time I was a kid until I switched to phone work in the Army, so a lot of that stuff is second nature to me. Not to worry. I always have something to trade.

A tip on the copper rivits. A rule of thumb is to leave an amount equal to 1/2 the diameter of the pin stick out on each side of the handles. Too little and you won't have enough to pein over and too much will allow it to bend before the job is done. Good luck!