All About Pocket Knives

Sure could use some help on this one. Off to a good start I think...

Not alot of the appropriate tools. Mostly hand work after the initial cuts and custom disc sander. Left myself a good handle to work with.

This is one for one of my boys or my grandson.

The wood was from my Dad's wood shop after he passed that I harvested. Special project. Any ideas on the type of wood? I think it is Walnut, solid as a rock and heavy.

Thanks, Jerry

When I put handles on a folder I generally take it apart and cut the wood to the proper thickness, fit it to the liners, glue it into place, drill the holes, reassemble the knife and finish shaping the handles on the knife.

That being said, it looks like you are off to a good start with the handles!

orvet wrote:When I put handles on a folder I generally take it apart and cut the wood to the proper thickness, fit it to the liners, glue it into place, drill the holes, reassemble the knife and finish shaping the handles on the knife.

That being said, it looks like you are off to a good start with the handles!

Thanks much for the input Dale! Sounds like a good process.

Being my first knife and with limited tools, no drill press, band saw, table saw, etc, I have been reduced to improvisiing with what I have, mainly elbow grease and sandpaper at this point. I have about 4 hours into it so far. I used the sander to take down the handles to the rough cut, worked pretty well actually. I have a scroll saw with I think a 1/8" blade. Thought about using that but I like all the digits I have on my paws as I was afraid the blade might snap due to the thickness and hardness of the wood.

I think it was you that posted the razor blade and soft hammer trick for getting it apart. Whomever it was, it worked great.

More concerned about repinning the knife at this point.

Anyone have any idea on the type of wood I am using? Very hard and heavy. I think Walnut but I am not sure. Also, what do you all suggest to make that beautiful grain pop and seal it? Some sort of sealer and or preservative? Boiled Linseed Oil?

I figured that to get the handles even, best to leave both attached for now that way I could look at them side by side and hit them with a caliper and sandpaper to get them uniform.

Thanks for the help! Regards, Jerry

It is hard to say what kind of wood it is.
It even looks a lot like some Mexican cocobolo I had one time, but it could be walnut.

If it is walnut finishing it won't be hard, a polyurethane would work or most any other finish.
If it is an oily wood like cocobolo you may just end up sanding it really fine, like 2000 grit and then waxing it with carnauba wax.
Some of the really oily woods won't take a finish like polyurethane, it just won't dry because of the oil.

looking good so far, if it was a little more open grained I'd say it was wenge

Thanks much MM for the reply!

It is starting to come around. Been working lately but I almost have the handles done. I guess I went at it bassackwards but I noodled it out and thought the best route with the tools on hand. Live and learn. Will post some pics soon. now I need to get some supplies like pins, spinner and /or peener.

I would appreciate some suggestions when I post the finished handle pics.

Regards, Jerry

Looks like Zircote to me. If so, it's a fairly oily wood and Dale's advise on oily woods will do the trick.
I think you're doin' fine so far. Be careful though, fixin' up knives can be awfully addictive! Can't wait to see 'er finished up!

WB

Thanks for the input and encouragement Gents!

The wood seemed to suck up multiple coats of tung oil. Was not oily prior to that I can tell.

Appreciate the help and input. Regards, Jerry

Can't wait to see the finished product. That wood looks great!

glennbad wrote:Can't wait to see the finished product. That wood looks great!

Me too Glenn! Thanks. Only hope she comes out close to the fine work you did on my other one. Heck, my first attempt so will do the best I can.

Allow me to digress briefly. Here is the knife pre restoration.

I had 2 identical CASE XX 4257 Office knives. Near mint besides the rotting off handles. I like to leave my knives alone for the most part but these handles were far gone. It would have been a shame to not do something about it, especially since they are 48 to to 72 years old and otherwise near mint.

Here are the 2 knives in pic 1. Glennbad did an outstanding job reworking the top knife in Red Melee as seen in the second pic. The bottom knife is the project under way by myself.

Pic 3 is another shot of Glenn's handiwork.

Remaining pics, 4 and 5 are of pre build condition of my project knife.


Again, thanks for all the help and encouargement everyone! Regards, Jerry

Almost done with the handles. Will leave until I get it back together. Since I shaped them off the knife, I used some small nails to emulate it being put back together so I could see abit better what it will look like when it is back together.
Worked well. Used a palm sander with 1500 grit to match the edges. Just held the sander still and moved the knife only. Then hit it with 2000 and 5000 grit by hand. Couple more coats of tung oil. May hit it with some poly, not sure yet.

The liners, 2000 and 5000 grit by hand. Still need to buff them but they look pretty good so far.

Lots of elbow grease and patience so far. Happy to this point with the results.

Nice contours on those covers!

Thanks Glenn! I like how they came out.

Now all I need is my package from Jantz to arrive next week. Bought a head spinner and some NS pins (bought plenty of extras). Won't be trying pin the first time on the handles. Will try to get experience on some wood pieces I have left over before I attempt on the knife.

I have to say, quite gratifying and fun project, but maybe I should wait till I am done before I say that.

Also, I have 2 other knives (EDCs) that are in the same boat. One is a near mint CASE XX Peanut with the real volatile yellow handles with white liners I already popped off. The other is a CASE USA 6275 Moose that someone already rehandled in Christmas Tree. Real loose and sloppy. So those are on deck assuming i don't screw the current build up.

Can't wait till the package arrives. Bought extra pins and some White Fabricated Ivory. Also, picked up 2 slabs of streaked Buffalo Horn that is black with cool white swirls in it.

Could I be hooked before I even complete my first project?

zp4ja wrote: Could I be hooked before I even complete my first project?

Um....yeah!

To me, there is nothing more gratifying (and humbling) than being able to produce something with your own hands that others will enjoy or maybe even treasure.

I think that is part of what draws me to the hobby. Now, if I could only match the time I need for the hobby with the work I need to get done, then I would be all set.

glennbad wrote:

zp4ja wrote: Could I be hooked before I even complete my first project?

Um....yeah!

To me, there is nothing more gratifying (and humbling) than being able to produce something with your own hands that others will enjoy or maybe even treasure.

I think that is part of what draws me to the hobby. Now, if I could only match the time I need for the hobby with the work I need to get done, then I would be all set.

You nailed it Glenn! The best gifts I have ever given were made by my hands. It is more personal. Same as the handmade gifts I have received. Most anyone can whip out a credit card to get a gift.

On this project, with using wood from Dad's shop, me doing the work and then passing to my Grandson (sadly, skipped my son for now unless he retracts his head from his rear), pretty priceless in my book. Very special project for me. Hope she comes out nice.

My Jantz order is taking forever to get here. UPS ground and the 3 day wekend. 8 days for OK to NV.

Anyway, should be here tomorrow.

I will be going thru the posts again and looking for tips on pinning. If there is a post in particular that someone recommends, please point me to it.

Question, when I use the feeler guage shims while pinning it, does that also apply to the rocker pin? (think that is what it is called). The center pin that goes thru the backspring is what I am referring to. Or just the pins that hold the blades?

Thanks for the help. Jerry

It is my exerience that you do not need a feeler gauge (slackener) at the pivot or backspring pin. You want that pin to snug everything tight together.

When using the slackener on the pivot (blade), I like to peen tight, then you can adjust the snugness on the joint after you remove it. That's just my technique, you honestly have to develop a feel for peening the pins.

Thnak Glenn!

So I guess I need to review the posts again.

So do I have this straight? I spin the heads on the pins and get then installed in the knife. Then the other side needs to be peened with some sort of concave punch and a hammer. Then I can try to spin them?

Sorry if I sound like a total idiot but I am ignorant to the process. I had the idea I would be spinning both sides of the pin.

Thanks, jerry

Glenn is right, it only applys to ends where blades pivot.
The reason for the slackner is so you don't get the blades so tight they won't walk & talk properly.
That is not a factor at the rocker pin or if you have an end without blades, like a jack or a single blade knife.

Glenn is also right that it takes some practice to develop a feel for it.

zp4ja wrote:Thnak Glenn!

So do I have this straight? I spin the heads on the pins and get then installed in the knife. Then the other side needs to be peened with some sort of concave punch and a hammer. Then I can try to spin them?

The only pins I spin are the handle pins that hold the handle to the liner & the rocker (center) pin.
After I get the rocker pin in place, I cut off the back and spin that down on the knife. That is the only pin I spin on the knife. If I am having trouble getting a head with the spinner sometimes I will give it a couple taps to help it spin better.

Of course the pivot pins or pins through bolsters are peened down and then flattened and polished with the bolsters.

orvet wrote:

zp4ja wrote:Thnak Glenn!

So do I have this straight? I spin the heads on the pins and get then installed in the knife. Then the other side needs to be peened with some sort of concave punch and a hammer. Then I can try to spin them?

The only pins I spin are the handle pins that hold the handle to the liner & the rocker (center) pin.
After I get the rocker pin in place, I cut off the back and spin that down on the knife. That is the only pin I spin on the knife. If I am having trouble getting a head with the spinner sometimes I will give it a couple taps to help it spin better.

Of course the pivot pins or pins through bolsters are peened down and then flattened and polished with the bolsters.

Thanks much Dale! No bolsters on this knife. No handle liner pins either. Just the rocker and blade pins. So I spin all pins since no bolsters?

jerry

I don't think I'd spin any of the pins on that knife, smooth covers look better with peened pins. It's not really difficult at all. First I'm assuming your pins are approx. .085 thick? If so your hole size is probably around a size 44, and I'm assuming the liner holes are the same. So, first you want to open those holes up a bit to help prevent cracking due to the pins spreading a bit while being hammered. Use a couple sizes larger drill bit (in this case a 42) and drill those holes to the liners ONLY, don't go through the liners, drill only through the wood. Now you want to countersink the holes so that you can form a decent head on the pin. Countersink the holes roughly a 32nd of an inch down, you don't want to go too deep or you'll never get the hole filled. Now the hafts are ready for assembly. Once assembled, nip the pins so that they're sticking up about a sixteenth of an inch past the covers. You're now ready to hammer: Start with the blade pin, if you like insert a shim between the tang and the liner. A good trick is to cut a notch in it so that it fits around the pin, and goes past it just a bit, I use about .004 thickness on most knives. Give the pin one good rap on each side to set it, then hit it three or four times, turn over and give the other side three or four hits, and repeat until you've got the pin nicely spread and the knife is tight. Pull the shim out and check walk and talk, then repeat on the other blade. When both ends are done, peen the center pin without a shim. All you have left to do now is to sand the pins flat with the covers.

Also, don't sand too much off the back edge of those liners or the spring will stick out past them, better to finish that area when the knife is assembled.

Eric

Wood is very proned to splitting along the grain when peening. I would suggest you practice on a couple of pieces of scrap first. Drill your practice holes the same distance from the ends as the ones in your actual handles, and use approximately the same thickness of material. Also, if you have any liner type material,(sheet metal would work) I would try doing a full blown simulation of the real process. Practice is your best chance for success. Best of luck and i'm sure you'll do fine!

WB

One thing I also like to do with covers is leave the material long around pin areas where I can. IMO, it leaves a little extra meat when you are peening. Perhaps less chance of blowout or cracking if there is more material there. Here is an example. See the extra bone I left around the rocker pin area.





Of course, I may be all wet and maybe that does nothing more than make me feel less nervous working in that area. I honestly think it has saved me a couple covers along the way though.


And spinning pins? I don't spin them all the time either. I think it has more to do with the type of material you're working with. Some nice craggy stag, that there is a prime candidate for pin spinning.

Awesome tips Guys! Thanks much!

Yes Sir WB. I mentioned earlier in the thread that I bought extra pins for a practive run or two on some test samples other than the final handles.

What tool do I peen with? A hammer of course but I assume some type of punch?