All About Pocket Knives

Although this topic is always talked about in sub topics I thought I would give it its own heading and I expect a lot of feedback on this because it is a subject that is constantly debated in our particular hobby. My biggest quandary is that many people say just clean off the rust and gunk inside and leave it while others will shine it up like a new penny.
When you see knives on ebay they will often sell for more if they are cleaned up. I know the price will also have more to do with the brand and age but I think that the closer they at look to mint the better they sell. I will start my input here and like I said we all have our own opinions here so be kind in your replies , but I will clean out the gunk from the inside using various methods and try to get as much rust off as possible using a pencil. This is where the rub will come in to play, if I have a knife that is very scratched or etched I will also use a very fine emery cloth or steel wool pad on the blades. My goal is not to make the knife look new just presentable and with as much corrosion removed as possible. Back to the inside, I will also use emery cloth folded to try to remove as much corrosion as possible but also to clean and shine the inside of the bolsters. I recently purchased a small rechargeable Dremel that is very handy but should only be used for polishing and fine scratch removal and should be tried on a POS knife first until you get acquainted with how it works. Ok that's my spiel, lets hear yours.
Richard

I NEVER use a Dremel to clean, or buff a knife. I started with one too but an old knife repairman told me to get a Foredom, a flex shaft tool that had great torque at low PRMs. The quality of my work improved 200% immediately, just by stopping the use of the Dremel.

The problem with the Dremel is it is an underpowered tool that will not work at low RPM; it is all RPM and no torque. It is only effective at higher PRM so that it will keep spinning; great for cutting with a burr or a cutoff wheel, but bad for polishing. The RPMS make the abrasive cut too deeply and leave uneven swirl marks all over whatever you are trying to buff.

My Dremel now only operates an abrasive cutting wheel for cutting pin or tube stock.

When polishing, I would rather use abrasive by hand than use any rotary tool, because the small diameter of the tools generally leave marks on whatever you are working on. If I have absolutely no option but to use a rotary tool of some sort, I will use my Foredom. The low RPMs allow me to control the cut of the abrasive. It is kind of like driving a car; at 20 MPH you have good control of most stock vehicle under normal conditions, but at 150 MPH you have little to no control over the vehicle.

IMHO, using Dremel to polish is like driving a Prius at 150 MPH: It should never happen and you will probably regret it.


Now that you know my shy and retiring opinion of the Dremel tool……… (timid person that I am)…..

This is a great link to one of many threads where this topic has been discussed:
http://www.allaboutpocketknives.com/kni ... ilit=clean

I don't believe you can get a knife closer to mint by cleaning it. You may be able to get the knife to look better if it has been crudely sharpened or the blades are misshaped but it won't be closer to mint in my opinion.

I know many collectors that have any knife they buy, if not mint, "cleaned". In this case "cleaned" refers to completely refinishing the metal surfaces of the blades. I believe that this is what most collectors are referring to when they describe a knife as "cleaned". Removing all rust, pitting or scratches. It is a matter of preference and each is entitled to do as they wish.

I prefer to see them in an honest, uncleaned state. Once a knife has been cleaned it becomes hard for me to determine what is right or wrong with the knife and that is reason enough for me to not be too interested in buying such a knife.

I do remove gunk and surface rust from most of my knives by using a 10" unsewn muslin buffing wheel with a pink no scratch 6000 grit rouge. This will remove any loose rust, gunk etc. and not compromise the original contours of the metal. I often clean the inside of the knife with a wooden push stick and steel wool. Any pointed probe will work to remove pocket lint and the like. This is what I prefer to do and I do not consider this to be "cleaning" the knife.

Wayne

I'm partial to patina. I've had one or two knives "cleaned" when they showed major abuse or neglect but I vastly prefer a knife that looks and acts its age. For me, when it comes to cleaning a knife, less is definitely more.

I'm with Phil. Patina is purty! Besides, buying a cleaned up, slicked up, shiny 60 year old pocket knife is like going to the equipment auction and looking at a 1960's tractor that's been cleaned up and painted. You always wonder what kind of leaks and flaws they're trying to hide.

I prefer the patina on knives I keep in my collection but if I am going to sell it, experience tells me it won't bring the same price.
Very few buyers will pay as much for the patina as the shiny knife buyer will pay for the same knife cleaned.

orvet wrote:I NEVER use a Dremel to clean, or buff a knife. I started with one too but an old knife repairman told me to get a Foredom, a flex shaft tool that had great torque at low PRMs. The quality of my work improved 200% immediately, just by stopping the use of the Dremel.

The problem with the Dremel is it is an underpowered tool that will not work at low RPM; it is all RPM and no torque. It is only effective at higher PRM so that it will keep spinning; great for cutting with a burr or a cutoff wheel, but bad for polishing. The RPMS make the abrasive cut too deeply and leave uneven swirl marks all over whatever you are trying to buff.

My Dremel now only operates an abrasive cutting wheel for cutting pin or tube stock.

When polishing, I would rather use abrasive by hand than use any rotary tool, because the small diameter of the tools generally leave marks on whatever you are working on. If I have absolutely no option but to use a rotary tool of some sort, I will use my Foredom. The low RPMs allow me to control the cut of the abrasive. It is kind of like driving a car; at 20 MPH you have good control of most stock vehicle under normal conditions, but at 150 MPH you have little to no control over the vehicle.

IMHO, using Dremel to polish is like driving a Prius at 150 MPH: It should never happen and you will probably regret it.


Now that you know my shy and retiring opinion of the Dremel tool……… (timid person that I am)…..

This is a great link to one of many threads where this topic has been discussed:
http://www.allaboutpocketknives.com/kni ... ilit=clean

Dale,
Thank you for your valuable and respected input, great information on the Dremel. Thank you for the links also, it's sometimes hard to search for all of the great information and you were kind enough to basically put it in link. And thank you to the other members for their input, we have a lot of well versed and respected members on this site but younger newer ones are coming in all the time so I think it's important that we educate them to the right way to care and preserve an old knife. I also prefer the look of patina and can't wait till my GEC gets there but I prefer to let it happen naturally.
Many thanks again,
Richard