My secondish knife - basic little Tollekniv / Puukko
Posted: Tue Dec 16, 2014 3:43 am
2 7/8" Lauri HC blade, that started with a secondary bevel, which I removed after about 4 hours on a coarse diamond plate, so now it is a full single bevel grind, everywhere save the last 4mm of the blade's point where it is convexy.
1/8" brass bolster, yellow poplar handle that was stained with clear lacquer with alizarin crimson pigment mixed in. Handle is four fingers wide. The extremely wide tang was set up with marine epoxy, and then cut and peened (after torching out the hardness) over a rivet made from a cartridge base.
With the flat scandi grind, it just eats wood up. In an abusive mood I roughly batoned it through some dry black walnut. No problem, still rock solid.
I've seen reindeer herders and Siberian trappers keeping little blades like this around for wood detail work on deadfall triggers and such. The tip is still stout enough to drill holes in wood.
I haven't made a sheath for it yet, it's been hanging out on my desk, assisting with whittling. I'll likely try something in soft wood that covers most of the handle for retention.
1/8" brass bolster, yellow poplar handle that was stained with clear lacquer with alizarin crimson pigment mixed in. Handle is four fingers wide. The extremely wide tang was set up with marine epoxy, and then cut and peened (after torching out the hardness) over a rivet made from a cartridge base.
With the flat scandi grind, it just eats wood up. In an abusive mood I roughly batoned it through some dry black walnut. No problem, still rock solid.
I've seen reindeer herders and Siberian trappers keeping little blades like this around for wood detail work on deadfall triggers and such. The tip is still stout enough to drill holes in wood.
I haven't made a sheath for it yet, it's been hanging out on my desk, assisting with whittling. I'll likely try something in soft wood that covers most of the handle for retention.
