All About Pocket Knives

This is about my walking cane but i'm sure many here will be able to advise me.
This cane came from AGR and is supposed to be Irish Blackthorn root. I think the 'root' is the ball end at the top. I have owned and used it for about 2 years. It fell into a lake once but otherwise has been kept dry. I use it wherever i go.
In the last month or so 2 cracks are opening up, one on either side of the 'ball' end and one is extending down the shaft almost to where there is a drilled hole for the leather strap.
What can be done to stop these cracks from getting bigger ?
Is there a powerful glue that can be forced deep into the cracks that will hold it together so the crack does not extend ? or ??
thank you for the help.
kj

The wood is drying out.
You might try filling the cracks with a good slow- cure epoxy like West Systems.

Roland,

This procedure seems like one possible solution.

https://www.instructables.com/id/Repairing-Split-Wood/

Dennis

Thank you Bill & Dennis. The link shows polyester resin being used. Is a 'slow cure epoxy' the same as 'polyester resin' ?
I will go to a building supply store tomorrow to see if they have either of these products.
I think the trick might be how to get the substance into the base of the cracks. # 22 needle & syringe would work if 'resin/epoxy' can be drawn into a syringe.
kj

Once you get the existing cracks repaired, you could look into using boiled linseed oil to rehydrate the wood and prevent further damage. It has been used for years to preserve and restore wood furniture, gun stocks, tools, etc. Be sure to get "boiled" linseed oil, not plain linseed oil. You can get it from any paint store or the paint department of a hardware store. Look it up on line to learn how to apply it.

Ken

Good point about the boiled linseed oil Ken.

I never really knew it was a good wood preservative... I just thought it gave a good shine....LOL.

I'm going to the hardware store today to look for a 'slow cure epoxy' to fill the cracks. Once dried i will use boiled linseed oil which i have and use on the birch wood handles on Scandinavian/Finnish knives.
I will post pictures of the results in a week or so.
Thank you all for your posts.
kj

To hell with epoxy.
You aren't going to repair anything. It isn't really damaged is it.
Put some mineral oil on the thing, like you should have done all along, and move on.

I think that any of the oils sold for furniture or gunstocks would be useful I have a 'stick' that I apply a furniture lemon oil to from time to time. I wonder if these applications done regularly would arrest any further cracking. I kind of think so. I enjoy rubbing down my stick (lol).

Joe these cracks began about 2-3 months ago and are getting wider and longer. If the 2 cracks spread and meet at the top of the burl, the palm of my hand will get pinched in the crack.
I bought this cane new from AGR about 2 years ago and there were no cracks. The info that came with it implied no upkeep needed. I use it every day so oil from my hand is in the burl part, but in hindsight i can see it needed more 'oil'.
I asked here because i have very little experience with wood preservation. e.g. oil it first and get it into the cracks and then try to fill with epoxy ?
or will oil prevent the epoxy from bonding with the wood ?
I don't understand your post: "You aren't going to repair anything. It isn't really damaged is it."
In my o.p. i stated that the cracks are new, have just happened in about the last 2 months and are continuing to enlarge.
How is this not "damaged" ?
And, why can it not be repaired ?
I have been told that the right epoxy is very strong and can bind with greater strength than the opposing cracking forces.
It is worth a try. I doubt oiling it repeatedly now will stop the cracks from spreading.
If your experience shows otherwise please explain.
kj

tongueriver wrote: ↑Tue Nov 12, 2019 3:27 pm I think that any of the oils sold for furniture or gunstocks would be useful I have a 'stick' that I apply a furniture lemon oil to from time to time. I wonder if these applications done regularly would arrest any further cracking. I kind of think so. I enjoy rubbing down my stick (lol).

Cal, my concern is that oiling now will not stop the cracks from growing and i need to stop it now before crack goes right through the burl top.
Because i am often playing with old knives, i often have mineral oil on my hands and i'll use my cane before cleaning oil off my hands. So it has had some mineral oil but maybe not enough. "Maybe" because might it have cracked even with frequent oiling of the surface ?
As i understand it, the shaft is a 'shoot' and the burl is part of the root under ground level. Maybe the wood grain between shoot & root is under stress and therefore prone to cracking ?
I don't know but would like to.
kj

Ha!
I have contributed to this thread more than I should have and will add no more the profound dilemma at hand.
What we're really talking about is a stick of wood. Oh, by the way, is that thing organic? If not, it could be a real safety concern.
I hope no Irish were harmed in getting this thing to market.

I am a bit hesitant to step into the fray so to speak, but never having been known for excessive common sense I will render an opinion.

I think epoxy will work well for filling the cracks so they don't pinch your hand. I seriously doubt that the epoxy will prevent further cracking. If the cracking is caused by drying wood or stress in the grain, I don't think the epoxy will be more than a temporary fix unless the stick has reached a point of stabilization where further cracking is unlikely.

If it were my cane and I were trying to prevent further cracking because I liked it and I used it, then I would use mechanical force to stop the cracking. Another words I would put a metal band around the stick, maybe even a couple if it appeared to be necessary. If done properly it should mechanically stop the spreading of the wood.

That is my $.02 worth.

Polyester casting epoxy is available at Hobby Lobby stores and on their web site. Use the more expensive of the 2 they offer. This resin does harden enough that it will take a mirror polish, but you will have to refinish the stick where it is used.
Do the gluing BEFORE you use oils of any sort on the wood, as they will prevent the resin from adhering.

Adding a metal ferrule from the bottom will help stop the cracking.

I now recall reading about that stuff, Bill; well recommended for this very purpose. My guess is that the stick in question may have reached homeostasis or will soon. Before that happens I don't think anything will stop its progress. And once it reaches its quest for driving the owner up the wall, it will settle down and can be filled or just left alone. A nice stick is like a HOK, a good old friend and companion. Good luck, Roland!

Can you clamp it together and make the cracks smaller or close up all the way? If so then put some epoxy in them and clamp it down while it dries.

I think it would look cool if you took some of that polyester casting resin like Bill mentioned, and mix it with some blue color, and fill those cracks. it would make a nice effect!

tongueriver wrote: ↑Tue Nov 12, 2019 3:27 pm I think that any of the oils sold for furniture or gunstocks would be useful I have a 'stick' that I apply a furniture lemon oil to from time to time. I wonder if these applications done regularly would arrest any further cracking. I kind of think so. I enjoy rubbing down my stick (lol).

Roland your stick likely wasn't seasoned long enough, blackthorn usually takes a good 8 years or so to season properly. Once wood is properly seasoned it becomes much more stable in sudden changes in temperature and humidity. Some suppliers tend to rush things when a big retailer comes a calling. At this point I would think that the casting resin would do a good job. If your bark is peeling you can strip it off, the bare wood is quite nice looking. Don't keep it too close to any high sources of dry heat such as heating elements or wood stoves.

The boiled linseed oil is also a good idea as it helps to seal the wood resulting in it drying more slowly. Fast drying is generally what causes the cracking, and it generally starts at the ends as they dry out quicker.

Eric

What ever you try, I hope it works for you.
I'd hate to see you lose a favorite walking stick.

I have had bowls to crack during the drying process and to prevent them from cracking more, I use CA Glue. it will keep the wood from cracking further and once it is dry then I would fill the cracks with epoxy or saw dust. Thin CA works better.

keithlong wrote: ↑Wed Nov 13, 2019 1:36 am I have had bowls to crack during the drying process and to prevent them from cracking more, I use CA Glue. it will keep the wood from cracking further and once it is dry then I would fill the cracks with epoxy or saw dust. Thin CA works better.

https://www.google.com/search?q=CA+gllu ... e&ie=UTF-8

Thank you all ! Excellent help. I will get the polyester casting resin and once set up i can sand if necessary and then 'feed' with thin coats of boiled linseed oil. And i think a leather wrap soaked in epoxy just below the burl will look good and might help hold the stick together.
This wood is stronger and heavier than any tree or shrub that grows in south central B.C. It is intended to be both a cane for support and balance and for self defense from thugs and feral dogs, hence the strength and weight are important.
Again thank for the help, especially to Bill, Dale & Eric (the "Three Wise Men" of Knife Repair)
kj

The casting resin is a great idea. You can add color to match the stick as well. Before I used it though I would drill small holes at each end of the crack to prevent it from spreading. Doing that will eliminate any stress that will cause the crack to spread. Before using the resin I would flush the crack with acetone or rubbing alcohol to dry and clean any oil that may be in there. Good luck on your repair!

Thank you Byrd.
'Small hole': 1/8" drill bit ? or larger ?
shaft of stick is about 1" diameter.
kj