All About Pocket Knives

Well this Hobo showed up from some where and it's been laying about. So shelter at home ...so why not try to fix it up. No clue what I'm doing but learning from many posts on here! I realize it's not a high end knife and it has issues. Plastic handles were loose held on by flimsy metal tabs one had broken. So at this point I have disassembled it. And will clean up the parts and then attempt to put bolsters and a handle it.

Looks like a very worthwhile project! A knife like this is a good platform to learn techniques for restoring a knife.
Good luck!
If you get stuck....ask question!
You can do it!!

I have couple of those, and they are of the "shell handled" construction method. You will have to do a conversion on it to add bolsters and may need to make new brass liners also.

Meridian_Mike wrote: ↑Tue Apr 28, 2020 1:47 pm Looks like a very worthwhile project! A knife like this is a good platform to learn techniques for restoring a knife.
Good luck!
If you get stuck....ask question!
You can do it!!

Thanks Mike

OLDE CUTLER wrote: ↑Tue Apr 28, 2020 5:04 pm I have couple of those, and they are of the "shell handled" construction method. You will have to do a conversion on it to add bolsters and may need to make new brass liners also.

I think I can modify whats there to make it work. If not I'll go with making new ones. They aren't even brass but steel painted brass color!

Rossr wrote: ↑Wed Apr 29, 2020 12:13 am I think I can modify whats there to make it work. If not I'll go with making new ones. They aren't even brass but steel painted brass color!

I have reused those liners before. You can hammer the raised areas flat...... Then locate an area where you can drill in some new holes to secure the new covers. And don't forget to chamfer the liner holes on the inside so you can spread the pin to securely hold it in the liner.
Keep us updated !!

I have done a few of the shell handled conversions on Kamp Kings, and I have done it both ways, using the old brass plated steel liners and going the full route to make new brass ones. If you hammer the projections flat on the steel ones, sometimes that distorts them and they will not lay flat. The whole conversion with new liners and bolsters is in the link below.

viewtopic.php?f=37&t=59087&p=679295&hil ... on#p679295

Well I added brass bolsters and oldes link to his tutorial sure helped! I soldered them on which was an experience and seems to work. I was using the copper pipe non lead solder and it seems to hold. No clue if that is correct stuff . Once I pin them I'm sure it won't go anywhere. I had some ebony around for the handle part. I epoxied that in place and will drill and pin them after the epoxy dries and I shape them. I'm for sure learning. Hardest part was getting bolsters on so they were semi uniform and not turned one way or another. I need to read up on tricks for that.


Any thoughts on age of this knife I'm thinking 1960's? Or is it newer than that.

Rossr wrote: ↑Fri May 01, 2020 12:55 am Well I added brass bolsters and oldes link to his tutorial sure helped! I soldered them on which was an experience and seems to work. I was using the copper pipe non lead solder and it seems to hold. No clue if that is correct stuff . Once I pin them I'm sure it won't go anywhere. I had some ebony around for the handle part. I epoxied that in place and will drill and pin them after the epoxy dries and I shape them. I'm for sure learning. Hardest part was getting bolsters on so they were semi uniform and joy turned one way or another. I need to read up on tricks for that.


Any thoughts on age of this knife I'm thinking 1960's? Or is it newer than that.

Looks like you are well on your way to a great finished product.

[/quote]

Looks like you are well on your way to a great finished product.
[/quote]


Thanks. I noticed you clamped your bolsters and drilled.the two holes, did you then solder them with the clamps.in place? Did u use flux. I chose.to use flux. I did get a bit.much solder.i had to.clean up afterwards. But that was just me overdoing it.

Ross

Tony Bose shows a really good method for soldering on bolsters in these videos. Each one is short but they bring out the important things to remember when soldering.
.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SQEQkz4TjVU
.
Looking good!

Only thing I do different is this.... I don't use NEARLY as much soldier as Tony. I take a small piece and basically do the same thing. That way, I don't have to get the excess off the floor later.

I have also seen people use a piece of soldier they flattened with a hammer and after both parts are fluxed, just lay the soldier between the pieces and heat the metal. One quick, easy operation.
Tony's method is called "tinning" when both parts are "tinned" with soldier first then the parts are placed together and reheated.
.
There is usually more than one way to skin a squirrel.

Enjoyed the videos very informative!

Got.tied up.with a fixed blade knife I'm working on but I did get the ebony sanded down and cut the spoon and fork.groove out.

Rossr wrote: ↑Fri May 01, 2020 3:00 am

Looks like you are well on your way to a great finished product.
[/quote]


Thanks. I noticed you clamped your bolsters and drilled.the two holes, did you then solder them with the clamps.in place? Did u use flux. I chose.to use flux. I did get a bit.much solder.i had to.clean up afterwards. But that was just me overdoing it.

Ross
[/quote]
Yes solder the bolsters after drilling 2 small holes and while still clamped. I drill the pin holes in the bolster after soldering. You must use flux when soldering or the solder will just ball up and roll off. Either liquid or paste flux or solder with flux in it. After you get some practice, you will tend to use less solder and have less cleanup.

Some progress. Made a mistake and cracked one scale when I peened the pins in the wood. So I had to replace. No biggie just took some time. So now I think I have it back together correctly. It sure seems like the springs dont fit the blade and can opener well. But it walks and talks.

So I'm thinking the middle pin I peen first. Then I am assuming I should put some kind of temporary shim on the left and right then peen those. Once peened remove the shim. My questions is how thick a shim in thousands?

I also need to read more about these spring clamps I've seen man was that a pain.

Open to thoughts

Rossr wrote: ↑Tue May 05, 2020 5:44 pm Some progress. Made a mistake and cracked one scale when I peened the pins in the wood. So I had to replace. No biggie just took some time. So now I think I have it back together correctly. It sure seems like the springs dont fit the blade and can opener well. But it walks a d talks.

So I'm thinking the middle pin I peen first. Then I am assuming I should put so.e kind if temporary shim on the left and right then open those. Once peened remove the shim. My questions is how thick a shim in thousands?

I also need to read more about these spri g videos uve seen man was that a pain.

Open to thoughts

I use around 7/1000ths spacer (called a slackner). I got this from one of Muskrat Man's videos, and it works well for me.
I did not have a set of feeler gauges, so I took the blades out of a cheap, twin-blade disposable razor. Two of the blades together are right at 7/1000ths, so I slide one on each side of the blade. You just have to be careful not to nick a finger with them! I am sure that a real feeler gauge would work as good or better.

Reverand wrote: ↑Wed May 06, 2020 12:48 am

Rossr wrote: ↑Tue May 05, 2020 5:44 pm Some progress. Made a mistake and cracked one scale when I peened the pins in the wood. So I had to replace. No biggie just took some time. So now I think I have it back together correctly. It sure seems like the springs dont fit the blade and can opener well. But it walks a d talks.

So I'm thinking the middle pin I peen first. Then I am assuming I should put so.e kind if temporary shim on the left and right then open those. Once peened remove the shim. My questions is how thick a shim in thousands?

I also need to read more about these spri g videos uve seen man was that a pain.

Open to thoughts

I use around 7/1000ths spacer (called a slackner). I got this from one of Muskrat Man's videos, and it works well for me.
I did not have a set of feeler gauges, so I took the blades out of a cheap, twin-blade disposable razor. Two of the blades together are right at 7/1000ths, so I slide one on each side of the blade. You just have to be careful not to nick a finger with them! I am sure that a real feeler gauge would work as good or better.

wouldn't have thought of a razor blade. I have feeler guages around I'll see how low they go!

Thank you.

Okay gents I did it. New handle with brass bolsters. It has some walk and talk. It clearly had some fit issues with the springs to the blade, can opener ,spoon and fork. Based on the fact I assume it was a relatively cheap knife and its age and wear I'm not surprised. I'm also new to this so maybe what I saw was normal. I am sure it can be used again and it was a fun project. Sure learned and Thanks for all the tips and help. Open to thoughts . I did note a little gap around the springs. Not where the spring pin is at but from left to right of it . Closed as I got closer to the end pins. Again though maybe the level of knife it is....or something I can work on in the future.


Ross

I am thoroughly impressed Mr. Rossr . Think it came out awesome, especially for being only your first knife, well done . To be totally honest, I can't see the gaps your talking about, it looks perfect to me. Like stated here many times before, we are, are own worst critics . If this is showing we're your headed in knife fixin', then I can't wait to see what happens . If you want to compare your work to a production knife, then take a look at this German Bull, by far the worst made knife I've ever seen... And it just had to be the first knife I ever bought, for 65 bucks too boot .
Willy

You really dressed up that old Hobo; very nice! You definitely tackled a lot for a first-time repair! I had worked on several knives before I tried making bolsters!
Keep it up!

WillyCamaro wrote: ↑Thu May 07, 2020 10:27 pm I am thoroughly impressed Mr. Rossr . Think it came out awesome, especially for being only your first knife, well done . To be totally honest, I can't see the gaps your talking about, it looks perfect to me. Like stated here many times before, we are, are own worst critics . If this is showing we're your headed in knife fixin', then I can't wait to see what happens . If you want to compare your work to a production knife, then take a look at this German Bull, by far the worst made knife I've ever seen... And it just had to be the first knife I ever bought, for 65 bucks too boot .
Willy

Thanks for the kind words. The gaps I can only.really tell if light is shining into it.

I've made fixed blade knifes for many years now and the skills. I've learned doing that sure helped . I always wanted to make a slip joint k ife from scratch so maybe fixing some up will get me motivated to try.

Wow on that knife the gaps etc......

Fun stuff to fix things up. And I am by far my own worst critic and a perfectionist to boot.

Reverand wrote: ↑Fri May 08, 2020 1:24 am You really dressed up that old Hobo; very nice! You definitely tackled a lot for a first-time repair! I had worked on several knives before I tried making bolsters!
Keep it up!

Thanks Reverand. If I didnt have the experience making bolsters on fixed blades I wouldnt have tried it. I was happy how they came out but thanks to some.posts and videos I can already see better methods. Especially for alignment I was a little off on one.

Always looking forward to the next one

That turned out quite nice! There is only so much you can do to a production knife like that, the quality just isn't there initially. However, it sure look like it is now!

glennbad wrote: ↑Mon May 11, 2020 1:15 pm That turned out quite nice! There is only so much you can do to a production knife like that, the quality just isn't there initially. However, it sure look like it is now!

Thanks for the kind words.

I do think I could.have peened it a bit tighter or used maybe a thinner shim. Hopefully its doesnt turn Into a.problem. down the line. I agree the quality just isnt there but I always wanted a hobo and this one will do nicely for me

Excellent work. Every knife you rebuild will teach anew lesson. Great job on this one.

Tony_Wood wrote: ↑Wed May 13, 2020 2:15 am Excellent work. Every knife you rebuild will teach anew lesson. Great job on this one.

Thanks Tony.