All About Pocket Knives

I know there is a lot of different blade types but what’s the best way to bring an old abused blade back to life. I have tons of case knives and a lot of old ones needs a facelift. How do y’all feel about sanding ? I have used some metal polishers like flitz and Works ok but trying to get a better Result. Thanks in advance.

Jcbuilder wrote: ↑Sun Oct 04, 2020 2:12 am I know there is a lot of different blade types but what’s the best way to bring an old abused blade back to life. I have tons of case knives and a lot of old ones needs a facelift. How do y’all feel about sanding ? I have used some metal polishers like flitz and Works ok but trying to get a better Result. Thanks in advance.

Sanding can be tricky, but if you do try sanding, use fine grits and work your way through them. EG. 400grit through 1200grit or whatever you decide to use. And wet sanding is better, and you can try a bit of rubbing alcohol as well. If you have a couple of old knives, and by that i mean cheap ones, you can use them to practice on, or even some old metal tools, or pieces of metal, and practice on them. You will get some better advice on this thread also, lot of more qualified people than me here, i just like experimenting with different methods on stuff that i have that if i bugger it up, it is better on something that is not a valuable or sentimental object. Have a play around on different objects, it is interesting and a great way to learn. Hope i haven't confused you.

It depends on how badly your blades are corroded but I like using 0000 steel wool. It's the only thing I used on this knife besides some oil on the handle slabs. I was focusing mainly on the bolsters and the shield but it will work on the blades too.

Railsplitter wrote: ↑Sun Oct 04, 2020 2:44 am It depends on how badly your blades are corroded but I like using 0000 steel wool. It's the only thing I used on this knife besides some oil on the handle slabs. I was focusing mainly on the bolsters and the shield but it will work on the blades too.

. I also have had good results with 0000 steel wool and rubbing alcohol.

Welcome to AAPK. Here’s a link to some posts with advice about knife cleaning. viewtopic.php?f=37&t=54157

The post included there from TripleF (Scott) has very good instructions for blade cleaning. viewtopic.php?f=38&t=47909. (Note he does NOT recommend using sandpaper.)

Ken

I always start with a flattened brass rifle cartridge. Use it as a scraper. It will nock off all the heavy corrosion and gunk, but not scratch the metal. (It will even work on blued guns.)

The next step depends on the knife. Usually just mineral oil and a rag. I find some honest pocket time and some use will usually bring them back to life.

eveled wrote: ↑Sun Oct 04, 2020 3:33 am I find some honest pocket time and some use will usually bring them back to life.

It depends on what is on the blade that you want to remove and what result you are trying to achieve. There are many, many opinions on this. Generally, I start with 0000 steel wool and WD40 and elbow grease. It is amazing how many things WD40 will dissolve or at least loosen up. WD40 in the blade well is also good for removing accumulated gunk.

I vote...be conservative. I don't know what are all the knives you are talking about; however, most Case knives are somewhat like precious metals...regarding resale value. They hold a certain value, determined by the market. I'd say...generally speaking...that an obviously sanded and polished knife, potentially decreases value as opposed to a knife with patina and legitimate wear. Obvious rust and heavy scratches / grinding marks may be the exception where I'd be more aggressive in clean-up. JMHO.
Welcome to AAPK! A lot of good folk and info here!

Thanks for the advise. I did not think of steel wool but will give a try. I definitely have a couple to practice on. I am just wanting to clean a few old knives to look better and use. I have my display knives that I never carry but really just enjoy the knife hobby out in my garage. Also new to the forum and looking forward to learning more.

Jcbuilder wrote: ↑Sun Oct 04, 2020 11:59 am Thanks for the advise. I did not think of steel wool but will give a try. I definitely have a couple to practice on. I am just wanting to clean a few old knives to look better and use. I have my display knives that I never carry but really just enjoy the knife hobby out in my garage. Also new to the forum and looking forward to learning more.

0000 steel wool is really good, and combined with rubbing alcohol, or WD-40 or similar it does a fantastic job, and if you want to really finish them off, 0000 steel wool with a little bit of flitz just lightly worked will do a great job. Good luck, and as i said in my earlier post, practice on some old cheap knives or old metal scraps. Have a good week.

I have a multi-step process. You have to remember that I never go for a mirror or satin finish. I am working on an old knife and no matter what I do, it will still be an old used knife. Trying for a factory finish so I can say "Mint/unused" like so many of fleabay do is not for me. I'm going for dead rust removal.

First, I use 0000 steel wool with 3-n-1 oil for a start to kill active red rust and loosen/remove the darker rust that comes from killing the red rust, using paper towels to remove the "dirty" oil and rust particles that come loose between cycles of elbow grease.

Then I used a carpenter's pencil - those wide pencils carpenters use for marking cuts on wood - to take most of the killed rust that is still sticking tight to the blade.

After that, it depends on what I going for. If it is an old rusty machete that I'm rehabing, I'll use 400 grit follow 600 or 800. I seldom go finer than that unless I'm doing it for demonstration purposes.

One thing people forget about using sand paper - if you are trying for a "nicer" finish, change directions while sanding. Some people sand cross-blade (spine to edge/edge to spine) and then lengthwise (tip to guard) with the same grit before dropping to the next grit. Other folks change grits when they change directions, e.g., sanding tip to guard with 400 grit then shift to spine/edge directions for 600 grit and back to lengthwise with 800 grit.

The purpose for changing directions is that when you go at 90º, the grooves left behind by the first grit get pared down with the next grit.

Thanks I am gonna give that a try. I have a few to practice on that someone sharpened to death to get practice. I am a contractor so have plenty of pencils. Thanks for all the help !

Take some before and after shots, everyone here likes to see restoration and cleaning jobs.