All About Pocket Knives

Howdy folks. Long time, no see.

I have a new knife that I want to carry, because it was a gift from a good friend. It is a Moore Maker trapper, with pretty white bone scales. The problem is the edge. It is as dull as a putty knife and no matter what I do I can't seem to get an edge on it at all. Now, with my other Moore Makers, my Cases and my Old Timers, a few draws through the old washer sharpener, a few rounds on the carborundum and I am good to go, at least sharp enough for the edge of the newspaper test. But this knife ... it is like the blade is too hard and refuses to be sharpened. What am I doing wrong?

Have you tried a Diamond stone? I’ve discovered they cut much better than carborundum or natural stone. (I’m a slow learner, but proof you can teach an old dog tricks.) That’s what I use now especially for harder steels.

Ken

Cowboy7130 wrote: ↑Wed Jun 16, 2021 3:20 am Howdy folks. Long time, no see.

I have a new knife that I want to carry, because it was a gift from a good friend. It is a Moore Maker trapper, with pretty white bone scales. The problem is the edge. It is as dull as a putty knife and no matter what I do I can't seem to get an edge on it at all. Now, with my other Moore Makers, my Cases and my Old Timers, a few draws through the old washer sharpener, a few rounds on the carborundum and I am good to go, at least sharp enough for the edge of the newspaper test. But this knife ... it is like the blade is too hard and refuses to be sharpened. What am I doing wrong?

A bevel angle which is different from what you are accustomed to, on a steel to which you are not accustomed, might be what's resisting your sharpening efforts?
You might want to skip the pull-through sharpener and check the condition of your carborundum stone; is the stone coarse enough for the job, is the stone glazed or loaded with steel residue?

Hope this helps...!

Mark

EDIT:
Inadvertent duplicate posting, sorry..!

This has happened to me also. I solved the problem
by using a clean more course stone and working my
way up to a fine stone after several transitions.
It took more patience than I would have expected too.

If you still cannot get it you can always go to professional
knife sharpener. If you are not dealing with a broken tip
it should not cost too much. PM me and I can get you
in contact with the store I have used.

Bob

The stone choice as mentioned or a clogged dirty stone as mentioned are probably your problem, but there could be another issue, i have encountered this problem before. The knife could have not been tempered properly in the manufacturing process, is not common, but can happen. I hope this is not the problem for you, but if it is, you have a parts knife.

I’ve encountered this also. I found that the only thing that works for me is to put a new bevel on the blade. This is much easier with my Work Sharp belt sharpener. Every knife I had trouble with has sharpened and works great now.

Mumbleypeg wrote: ↑Wed Jun 16, 2021 3:27 am Have you tried a Diamond stone? I’ve discovered they cut much better than carborundum or natural stone. (I’m a slow learner, but proof you can teach an old dog tricks.) That’s what I use now especially for harder steels.

Ken

I like the diamond stone angle in your case.
I haven't used one. Don't own one. I'm afraid they will take too many thousands off of my cherished blades.
In your case it may make a difference. I hope you succeed.

FRJ wrote: ↑Wed Jun 16, 2021 11:28 pm

Mumbleypeg wrote: ↑Wed Jun 16, 2021 3:27 am Have you tried a Diamond stone? I’ve discovered they cut much better than carborundum or natural stone. (I’m a slow learner, but proof you can teach an old dog tricks.) That’s what I use now especially for harder steels.

Ken

I like the diamond stone angle in your case.
I haven't used one. Don't own one. I'm afraid they will take too many thousands off of my cherished blades.
In your case it may make a difference. I hope you succeed.

Joe, having only used India (carborundum) and Arkansas stones all my life, I had the same concern. I’ve learned the key to using diamond stones is to resist using any pressure, just let the stone do the work. And it requires fewer passes on the diamond stone than the same blade would on a “conventional” stone. My diamond stones came with my WorkSharp Guided Sharpening System which also came with an excellent set of instructions, including a recommended number of “strokes” per each stone grit. It was an easy transition. Maybe because I was cautious about removing too much too quick, my initial approach was to test the edge often before proceeding further.

Ken

When I’ve experienced the same phenomenon. It was because the knife was sharpened at a different angle and I wasn’t reaching the edge yet. A sharpie will be helpful if this is the case.

Mumbleypeg wrote: ↑Thu Jun 17, 2021 12:13 am
Maybe because I was cautious about removing too much too quick, my initial approach was to test the edge often before proceeding further.
Ken

Thank you, Ken.
I always appreciate your perception of things like this.
I wonder if I'm not missing something by not trying a diamond stone. Maybe I should change that.
The water stones seemed like such a big step up from the carborundum and the "earth stones" that I hardly gave diamond stones a second thought or any research.

I used to have that problem on a knife or two. Then Q sent me a Diamond block set, green, red, blue, and it changed my life. Shout out to Q for another of the best gifts I"ve received period. Much much easier to get an edge on the harder steels like powder coat and Aus 8, CPM 154 etc. Had one dull as a butter knife that took a half hour on the Diamond block but it worked. They blow away my old stones and I don't even use them anymore. All Diamond blocks now. I use water on them and keep them wet, and they do any steel I put on them now. The harder steels take a while instead of 5 minutes for Stainless or 1095 types, but it still works and I"ve been very pleased with them. Thanks again to Q for clueing me up to this method. My go to, one and only method now. Hope it helps and know it works if you get a set.

Ivoryman wrote: ↑Thu Jun 17, 2021 3:42 pm Then Q sent me a Diamond block set, green, red, blue, and it changed my life. Hope it helps and know it works if you get a set.

I only use diamond sharpeners as well. It's the only way I've ever been able to get a decent edge on VG-10, one of my favorite steels.

https://agrussell.com/knife/DMT-Three-6 ... -DMT-W6EFC#

I too have succumbed to diamond stones. They do work faster, with less pressure. I just use a finer grit than I would on a traditional stone.

I too, have a diamond stone kit, for those blade steels which just don't want to cooperate.

This DMT kit has four grits on two double-sided heavy aluminum plates, with a fitted wooden box.

I prefer the uninterrupted style of diamond surface, and at less than $90.00 before tax and shipping, this kit is a solid value.

Here's a link to the kit page at Sharpening Supplies:

https://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/DMT- ... -P404.aspx

Hope this helps..!!
Mark

A) Hard steel can round as you work it and never come sharp when free handed .
B) Hard steel takes a long time to work , especially on finer materials ( stone )
C) Diamond stones / hones are the way to go for a BEVEL

You need a nice straight bevel , once this is established , you can go for a finer finish . A guided knife sharpener is a wonderous tool . It cuts relatively accurately and maintains the angle as you work . Even if you need to muscle the blade to cut it , your maintaining the angle as you go .
My fathers old knife ( A Finnish knife ) has the hardest steel I have known to date . It was a seriously hard job to put an edge on it , and I just about wore out that diamond stone doing it .
My father was a notorious knife destroyer , and that knife was the only one to survive him . But that steel is so hard .

A) Guided knife sharpener
B) Some diamond stones / cutters / hones ( call them what you will )
C) You just need them to put down a clean bevel with the diamond ...
D) Once you have a nice clean bevel , do as you please till the bevel is no longer good , then just re-bevel .

Nothing worse than sharpening till the blade is gone .

FRJ wrote: ↑Thu Jun 17, 2021 4:09 am I wonder if I'm not missing something by not trying a diamond stone. Maybe I should change that.

Where have I been.
Lost in the prejudices of sharpening paraphernalia.
And now I'm found ----- no, wait ----- now I have found the stone to fill in the gap of my sharpening arsenal.
For now.
This Diamond Stone is pretty nifty. I bought the 10 inch fine/extra fine model. Didn't want to go too course.
I don't think the steel is particularly hard in my Dexter chef knives but it is decent steel. This stone sharpens them to a very acceptable edge. At least it satisfies me.
Always learning.

FRJ wrote: ↑Sun Jul 11, 2021 10:31 pm

FRJ wrote: ↑Thu Jun 17, 2021 4:09 am I wonder if I'm not missing something by not trying a diamond stone. Maybe I should change that.

Where have I been.
Lost in the prejudices of sharpening paraphernalia.
And now I'm found ----- no, wait ----- now I have found the stone to fill in the gap of my sharpening arsenal.
For now.
This Diamond Stone is pretty nifty. I bought the 10 inch fine/extra fine model. Didn't want to go too course.
I don't think the steel is particularly hard in my Dexter chef knives but it is decent steel. This stone sharpens them to a very acceptable edge. At least it satisfies me.
Always learning.

Joe, that’s kinda the same revelation I had! (Wow, this works great! Why did I wait so long?)

Ken