How about a (sticky) thread for tips on using the Lansky ?

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How about a (sticky) thread for tips on using the Lansky ?

Postby cbnutt » Fri Nov 16, 2018 5:17 pm

I am liking mine so far , I know you can just follow instructions that came with it , but like anything , theres the "tips and tricks" end of it , to make it better , so, I would like for people to please post the little things they do that have improved the results with theres , one thing ill ask first is I wonder if I need better cutting stones for some knifes , I have sharpened a 6318 carbon steel XX Case , its wicked sharp , and a friends older carbon Cammilus that's also very sharp , a couple guys from work sent home with me a Browning and a Gerber, that I couldn't get to cut hot butter after trying to sharpen them ! Mabey the oil stones just couldn't sharpen the harder steel ?? Anyway, lets hear from you all about the tricks and methods your doin with the Lansky , hopefully this can be a sticky for people to learn ,Thanks James . ::tu::
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Re: How about a (sticky) thread for tips on using the Lansky ?

Postby Lansky1 » Sat Nov 17, 2018 12:07 am

I’ll start ....

- put a little piece of blue painters tape on the top edge of the knife where it mounts in the jig to prevent those annoying tell tale Lansky scratches.

- watch the inside of your right hand - if you slip, the blade tip is very close to the inside of your wrist

- I have tried all 4 sharpening angles & have settled on using the top hole (30 degrees). It seems to work perfectly for all of my slip joints ... and the best part is I always know which angle to use regardless of what knife I’m re-sharpening

- the standard stones dish out from wear over time - but the diamond stones always stay flat as the diamond sharpening media is bonded to a steel plate. It’s worth it to me to pony up for the diamond set

- I’ve Found the single most important part of the Lansky system is to buy the mounting base so it’s stable - trying to freehand that Lansky clamp is actually quite dangerous.
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Re: How about a (sticky) thread for tips on using the Lansky ?

Postby 313 Mike » Sat Nov 17, 2018 12:58 am

How do you get the system to work with small narrow slipjoint blades? The stones always rub on the clamps for me, and if I put the clamp just on the very edge it wont hold the blade securely
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Re: How about a (sticky) thread for tips on using the Lansky ?

Postby Colonel26 » Sat Nov 17, 2018 1:14 am

313 Mike wrote:How do you get the system to work with small narrow slipjoint blades? The stones always rub on the clamps for me, and if I put the clamp just on the very edge it wont hold the blade securely


That’s exactly the problem I have with them.
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Re: How about a (sticky) thread for tips on using the Lansky ?

Postby OLDE CUTLER » Sat Nov 17, 2018 2:29 am

313 Mike wrote:How do you get the system to work with small narrow slipjoint blades? The stones always rub on the clamps for me, and if I put the clamp just on the very edge it wont hold the blade securely


I don't use the clamp on small blades, such as small pen blades and the pen blades on whittlers. Just hold the knife with the blade open, point away from you, and cutting edge facing up, hand resting on a table, then take the Lansky stone (or actually any stone will do this), try to duplicated the angle that the Lansky uses, and just rock the stone back and forth, towards and away from you. Small pens usually don't take much to sharpen them unless they have been badly abused.
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Re: How about a (sticky) thread for tips on using the Lansky ?

Postby Colonel26 » Sat Nov 17, 2018 3:13 am

OLDE CUTLER wrote:
313 Mike wrote:How do you get the system to work with small narrow slipjoint blades? The stones always rub on the clamps for me, and if I put the clamp just on the very edge it wont hold the blade securely


I don't use the clamp on small blades, such as small pen blades and the pen blades on whittlers. Just hold the knife with the blade open, point away from you, and cutting edge facing up, hand resting on a table, then take the Lansky stone (or actually any stone will do this), try to duplicated the angle that the Lansky uses, and just rock the stone back and forth, towards and away from you. Small pens usually don't take much to sharpen them unless they have been badly abused.



I’m a free hand sharpener, learned from a kid up watching dad. So it’s always faster for me just to skip the lansky. But when I have used one, since I like mine sharpened at 20° or less, I have a lot of trouble with the stone hitting the clamp even with larger blades. Any ideas?
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Re: How about a (sticky) thread for tips on using the Lansky ?

Postby Lansky1 » Sat Nov 17, 2018 3:13 am

Colonel26 wrote:
313 Mike wrote:How do you get the system to work with small narrow slipjoint blades? The stones always rub on the clamps for me, and if I put the clamp just on the very edge it wont hold the blade securely


That’s exactly the problem I have with them.


That’s the practical limit of the Lansky system - it won’t work with the really little blades. I guess it just depends what kind of knives you like - I don’t have many mini stockmans or little pen knives, so it doesn’t bother me & I do my best to freehand sharpen those ...
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Re: How about a (sticky) thread for tips on using the Lansky ?

Postby Colonel26 » Sat Nov 17, 2018 3:18 am

Lansky1 wrote:
Colonel26 wrote:
313 Mike wrote:How do you get the system to work with small narrow slipjoint blades? The stones always rub on the clamps for me, and if I put the clamp just on the very edge it wont hold the blade securely


That’s exactly the problem I have with them.


That’s the limit of the Landky system - it won’t work with the really little blades. I guess it just depends what kind of knives you like - I don’t have many mini stockmans or little pen knives, so it doesn’t bother me & I do my best to freehand sharpen those ...


I agree. But I still have issues on larger blades at lower angles. Any chance of a photo of where you place the clamp on say a typical clip blade of anstockman, or the sheepsfoot blade?
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Re: How about a (sticky) thread for tips on using the Lansky ?

Postby Lansky1 » Sat Nov 17, 2018 4:12 am

Colonel26 wrote:
Lansky1 wrote:
Colonel26 wrote:
That’s exactly the problem I have with them.


That’s the limit of the Landky system - it won’t work with the really little blades. I guess it just depends what kind of knives you like - I don’t have many mini stockmans or little pen knives, so it doesn’t bother me & I do my best to freehand sharpen those ...


I agree. But I still have issues on larger blades at lower angles. Any chance of a photo of where you place the clamp on say a typical clip blade of a stockman, or the sheepsfoot blade?


I've never been successful using the lower angles either. Every time I try using less than the 30° hole, I don't like the results (it's removing alot more steel, takes longer, and due to the fine-ness of the edge, technique has to be perfect - I find it's just alot more work and time to sharpen at the lower angles on the Lansky). At least for slipjoints, I'm 100% sold on the 30° setting on the Lansky. I can't imagine needing a knife edge sharper than the Lansky at 30° with the fine diamond & finished off with the ultra fine ceramic stone provides. But my experience is largely involving Case stainless steel - maybe for the modern super steels or even vintage carbon steels, it could be different ::shrug:: . I'll try to get some pics tomorrow ...
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Re: How about a (sticky) thread for tips on using the Lansky ?

Postby Colonel26 » Sat Nov 17, 2018 7:07 am

Lansky1 wrote:
Colonel26 wrote:
Lansky1 wrote:
That’s the limit of the Landky system - it won’t work with the really little blades. I guess it just depends what kind of knives you like - I don’t have many mini stockmans or little pen knives, so it doesn’t bother me & I do my best to freehand sharpen those ...


I agree. But I still have issues on larger blades at lower angles. Any chance of a photo of where you place the clamp on say a typical clip blade of a stockman, or the sheepsfoot blade?


I've never been successful using the lower angles either. Every time I try using less than the 30° hole, I don't like the results (it's removing alot more steel, takes longer, and due to the fine-ness of the edge, technique has to be perfect - I find it's just alot more work and time to sharpen at the lower angles on the Lansky). At least for slipjoints, I'm 100% sold on the 30° setting on the Lansky. I can't imagine needing a knife edge sharper than the Lansky at 30° with the fine diamond & finished off with the ultra fine ceramic stone provides. But my experience is largely involving Case stainless steel - maybe for the modern super steels or even vintage carbon steels, it could be different ::shrug:: . I'll try to get some pics tomorrow ...


Well, good! Lol. Now I know it ain’t just me. I agree that the softer stainless blades don’t do well with a low angle. The edge tends to roll in my opinion.

Good old high carbon steel really shines imo at those lower angles.
“There are things in the old Book which I may not be able to explain, but I fully accept it as the infallible word of God, and receive its teachings as inspired by the Holy Spirit.”
Robert E. Lee

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Re: How about a (sticky) thread for tips on using the Lansky ?

Postby cbnutt » Sat Nov 17, 2018 4:22 pm

I have been using the 25 deg . maybe I should change to that 30 one ? It worked good for the 18 pattern case and a old Timer 25 OT hunter , but for others I might experiment , I also ran in to the problem if a knife was worn with small blades that the stone was resting on the clamp instead of the blade , if they are pretty full it seems to work great on the 18 med . stockmans , I think ill also look into diamond stones , is the ceramic better for polishing , finishing , than the ultra fine stone that came with the set ? it does a pretty good job , then I used leather after that .
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Re: How about a (sticky) thread for tips on using the Lansky ?

Postby eveled » Sun Nov 18, 2018 10:06 am

I used the Lanskey, long enough to see it's shortcomings, but it somehow taught me what I needed to go back to free hand sharpening with much better results.

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Re: How about a (sticky) thread for tips on using the Lansky ?

Postby ken98k » Sun Nov 18, 2018 11:23 am

eveled wrote:I used the Lanskey, long enough to see it's shortcomings, but it somehow taught me what I needed to go back to free hand sharpening with much better results.

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Re: How about a (sticky) thread for tips on using the Lansky ?

Postby OLDE CUTLER » Mon Nov 19, 2018 5:44 pm

Those of you who mentioned that the Lansky is not perfect are all correct. But for the bulk of pocket knife sharpening it works good enough. The very largest blades are a problem as are the very smallest. This topic is suffering from a lack of pictures to show different setups, so I spent some time to try to get something to show. Not that easy to get things setup to see the angles.
If you put the blade clamp on in different places, this will affect the angle somewhat. As shown below, if the clamp is too far back toward the handle, more metal seems to be ground unnecessarily from the tip. Shown on a Buck 110 for example
IMG_2533.JPG

I usually put the clamp on more toward the center or even more towards the tip to avoid this.
IMG_2534.JPG

When sharpening small pen blades, the stones can actually rub on the clamp, so I don't use the clamp for small blades. I hold the knife as shown with the hand resting on the table and using just the Lansky stone (fine diamond shown) without the guide rod, with the bottom end resting on the table. I try to approximate 25 degrees blade to stone angle while doing this. Just rock the top end of the stone back and forth towards and away from the tip.
IMG_2535.JPG

Turn over and do the other side.
IMG_2536.JPG

Small pen blades usually don't need that much to sharpen, and this method has worked for me.
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Re: How about a (sticky) thread for tips on using the Lansky ?

Postby royal0014 » Mon Nov 19, 2018 8:41 pm

I use a sharpie to color the edge of the blade.
Set up the clamp and make a few swipes on both sides with a med or fine stone.
Use some type of magnification to see where the stone will 'cut' the bevel.
Adjust accordingly . . . .

Also, make sure the rod(s) are straight and square with the stone(s).
I recommend leaving the rods on the stones between sharpening jobs.

YMMV
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