Kitchen Knife handle finishing/sealing?

[glennbad]

I don't make custom knives (yet), but I have played around with pre-ground blanks, putting handle materials on and doing final shaping and such.

I like to use Ironwood, because of the finished look of it, and it is pretty durable on its own. For those you who make custom kitchen knives or work like I am doing, what are you using to seal your wood?

I made some of these knives for our kitchen at work. Of course, idiots put them in the dishwasher, yay. I know sealing the wood won't keep them from getting damaged in the dishwasher, but if there is something you'd recommend to help protect the wood a bit more, I'm all ears.

Thanks!

[OLDE CUTLER]

You can tell people not to put things in the dishwasher, but they do it anyway. Then when they ruin it, it is your fault. I think a dishwasher can ruin anything you can think of.

[cudgee]

I don't make custom knives (yet), but I have played around with pre-ground blanks, putting handle materials on and doing final shaping and such.

I like to use Ironwood, because of the finished look of it, and it is pretty durable on its own. For those you who make custom kitchen knives or work like I am doing, what are you using to seal your wood?

I made some of these knives for our kitchen at work. Of course, idiots put them in the dishwasher, yay. I know sealing the wood won't keep them from getting damaged in the dishwasher, but if there is something you'd recommend to help protect the wood a bit more, I'm all ears.

Thanks!

I am not a knife maker or mechanic, just want to make that clear, but have done a lot of experimenting with wood finishes, and few knife scale refurbs. Had some great success with Tru-Oil, used for high end finishes on gun stocks. Takes time because of the curing time, but you can have a Matt or High gloss finish, and seals the wood. Have a look into it.

[OLDE CUTLER]

I have used Tru-Oil also on lots of lathe turned projects, gunstocks, and knife handles. It is an excellent product when multiple coats are applied. But I doubt it would survive long with repeated dish washer exposure. Best to try it on some wood samples and then put it thru some dish washer cycles.

[btrwtr]

CA glue can be used. Easy to apply and durable. After applying and curing it can be lightly buffed or finished using 0000 steel wool. Doesn't change the color of the wood the way some oils and other finishes do.

On light pourous woods I prefer to have them stabilized and have used K&G Finishing Supplies in the past for this process. For oily and dense woods the stabilizing is not a good idea.

I never put any quality pots, pans or kitchen knives in the dishwasher.

[OLDE CUTLER]

Before I retired, my last job was working for a contractors supply that sold a wide variety of wood finishing products. As a woodturner, I spoke with factory reps many times about finishes and their durability. One project I wanted to do was turned wooden shot glasses from exotic woods. I spoke with the reps from many companies about a suitable finish for a shot glass that would be tequila proof. None of them could say that if I took a shot from one of my turned shot glass that I would not also be consuming the finish on the wood. My shot glass project ended in failure. I know a lot of woodturners who have used CA glue as a finish, but since it was not designed for that use it would be a poor choice. Glue is not made for exposure, normally it is inside of a joint, so UV light for instance will deteriorate it over time and it has to be redone. Wood finishes all have UV inhibitors.

[Jeffinn]

I’ve held off on using ironwood for any of my knife handles. Most of what I’ve read online says that ironwood will darken to almost black in color with use. Because it’s so dense, ironwood doesn’t take finishes well. Some folks seem to have had limited success with oil based varnish (spar varnish in particular) but the general consensus seems to be that ironwood will just naturally darken with use. I’m not sure if finishes of any type will slow/stop the darkening process. Apparently it’s due to UV exposure?
Let us know if you come up with a finish that works!
Jeff

[glennbad]

Thanks for the input so far. Traditionally, I haven't done any extra finishes/sealing on Ironwood, regardless of kitchen of pocket knife use. The wood is pretty dense and buffs up nice, so I've never thought I would need to add anything.

I do agree with the comment about Ironwood darkening. On one of my kitchen knives (that doesn't go in the dishwasher!), the Ironwood has darkened up over some time.

I've used Tru-Oil before, it does seem to create a hard-ish finish to the wood.

I'll have to try a few things and see how they work. Thanks!

[cudgee]

I’ve held off on using ironwood for any of my knife handles. Most of what I’ve read online says that ironwood will darken to almost black in color with use. Because it’s so dense, ironwood doesn’t take finishes well. Some folks seem to have had limited success with oil based varnish (spar varnish in particular) but the general consensus seems to be that ironwood will just naturally darken with use. I’m not sure if finishes of any type will slow/stop the darkening process. Apparently it’s due to UV exposure?
Let us know if you come up with a finish that works!
Jeff

You are correct Jeff, Ironwood will darken with use, just absorbs moisture and oils from the hand so much. Over time it almost looks back and like Ebony Wood. But it is so hardy you can see why it is so popular for work and EDC knives.

[cudgee]

Thanks for the input so far. Traditionally, I haven't done any extra finishes/sealing on Ironwood, regardless of kitchen of pocket knife use. The wood is pretty dense and buffs up nice, so I've never thought I would need to add anything.

I do agree with the comment about Ironwood darkening. On one of my kitchen knives (that doesn't go in the dishwasher!), the Ironwood has darkened up over some time.

I've used Tru-Oil before, it does seem to create a hard-ish finish to the wood.

I'll have to try a few things and see how they work. Thanks!

There was a member over on another Forum who used Gorilla Glue, but is tricky to use, but hardens and seals really well. Just a thought.

[jkf96a]

I tend to use Lin-Speed, multiple coats. Nothing lasts forever in that environment, even if they don't put it in the dishwasher. I tell customers they can use teak oil to re-coat.

[Eustace]

For the knives with wooden handles that I make, use a mixture that I prepare myself. Beeswax, pine turpentine and linseed oil in a ratio of 1/1/1.
But, I know from experience that a wooden handle in the kitchen is not a good idea. After a while, the wood begins to warp, gaps appear between the wood and the metal, where nasty dirt collects. For a kitchen knife, stabilized wood or some synthetic material - G10, micarta, acrylic...