Horn Scaled Coricama

[jw517]

Any advice on cleaning horn handles? I have never dealt with them before. What not to do? Is there some cleaners to stay away from? Alcohol? Soap water? Do they swell?

[jw517]

I “won” a 13 inch Coricama red dot last nite..

[Pile Driver]

I'd say stay away from most everything, if you send a photo if what you are looking to clean I could make a suggestion. Generally speaking 0000 steel wool dry will remove most surface grime on the horns but will likely leave them dull micro scratched. then a clean cotton rag and a thin coat of mineral oil might help polish them manually.

a little mineral oil goes along way, don't want to saturate them

[Bill DeShivs]

If you put mineral oil on horn, it can not be repaired if it's cracked.
Use a coat of paste wax or car wax.

[jw517]

Thanks a bunch! I was thinking 0000 wool and wax. Can you go over the inside brass liners or I suppose they would scratch easily. I’d like to show it off but I can’t go get it until tomorrow. Also I don’t see how to post a pic.

[No youre wrong]

I would do what Pile Driver suggested or possibly just put a small dab of simichrome on a cotton ball and polish it.

[No youre wrong]

Thanks a bunch! I was thinking 0000 wool and wax. Can you go over the inside brass liners or I suppose they would scratch easily. I’d like to show it off but I can’t go get it until tomorrow. Also I don’t see how to post a pic.

You can go over the liners but when approaching valuable antiques I would start with “less is more.” Some collectors like seeing the age in the brass. So why change it?

Some of these guys just rip apart a knife and polish them to look new before really taking the time to only do what’s truly necessary. Once you’ve gone too far you can go back so I’d go slowly.

[Pile Driver]

Renaissance wax is a good product as well, slipped my mind and would be better applied to put a hydrated gloss look than mineral oil on the horn itself. I try and only use mineral oil on steel.

Golden patina'd brass liners and pins are coveted in the collecting world, it is an indicator that a knife has never been taken apart.

Nothing better than a nice naturally aged golden facotory brass pivot pin on a Coricama product

[jw517]

I hope I’m not asking too many questions,BUT what if anything does the red dot on the safety mean? I assume it indicates the firing position,but does it tell age of knife?

[jw517]

[jw517]

[jw517]

I was a bit worried when I went to the auction house to pick it up because I did not go to look at it before the auction and the pics they had were not great. I figured the spring was gone or something. When the owner handed it to me all I could say was,” OH MY GOD,OH MY GOD”! The blade is SO thick! Yes,it fires perfectly. It has been stoned but aside from getting the hard,old,green grease out of it I don’t think it needs a thing. I’m wondering what is best to lubricant this with. Grease seems a bit much but that’s what was in it. I put a few drops of my1911 slide lube on the contact areas.

[No youre wrong]

Don’t do a thing to it. It’s perfect as is. 🫡

[Madmarco]

I agree, jw, I wouldn't touch a thing on that knife, it's gorgeous as it is!
The thickness of the blade is due to it being 5mm to match with the spring whereas most are 3-4mm, and that big spring gives that big thick blade firing power.
The red dot is simply an indicator if the safety is on/off, it has nothing to do with age. The "ramp" in front of the catch-hole in the blade is a sign of a well made knife.
For lubrication I suggest Quick Release oil from Latama.
Beautiful knife, man, you're hooked now for sure! lol!

[jw517]

I bought a bunch of switchblades in Mexico 30 years ago and they were junkie then. Gave them to buddies.Then I bought a 13 in. AkC about 12 years ago. It fired a bunch of times and now it won’t lock up. When I saw this one in my hand I then knew what a great knife was! Yes,I’ll have to keep my eyes open. If I told you what I paid at this auction you might get ill.

[Madmarco]

I was gonna ask you if you mind telling us how much you paid, but after reading your last post it won't be necessary! Ya gotta pay for quality!

[jw517]

Does anybody want to”speculate” as to what my two daughters might get for this when I’m dead? Assuming it’s not taken to GoodWill with my traps ,cleaver,Military knives,coins,stamps etc? I really can’t find a sold example.

[Madmarco]

For what it's worth, jw, there was a Coricama 11"er sold in one of the AAPK stores not long ago for US$295. and it was a real POS, totally beat-up and covered with bug bites. The seller fully admitted it was junk at this point and suggested it be used for parts, that's how bad is was, so if they go for that kind of money even though it's garbage one would think yours would command some serious bucks. Price could be discussed from morning til night, but the final price will always be determined by what the buyer is willing to pay, and what you're willing to sell it for.
I like the new avatar, is that you with that big rack, you handsome young devil you? lol!

[jw517]

I put out a couple feelers but I guess there is no real way of putting a price on a piece of old steel. It even depends on who is selling it. Take a Case M-4 Bayonet in mint unissued condition. I know I can get 250-300 easy. If my friend and author sells it 400.00. There is always a bottom though. This is not mint. It’s been stoned. Yes,that’s me. I look a bit different after 20 years though. 14 points,250 lbs.dressed. Recurve bow with arrows I made! I don’t have that much energy anymore.

[Killgar]

The last Coricama that sold here sold for $650. A mini Coricama recently sold at Arizona Customs for $700.

As far as red dot safeties, some of the old pick lock stilettos had red plastic inserts instead of red paint. I believe the ones with the inserts are more valuable as they are more unusual. Credit to Bill DeShivs for teaching me about the plastic inserts.

One way to tell an old Italian stiletto from a more recent one is the lock/lock-release mechanism. Your knife is a pick lock, it requires that the head of the lock be manually pulled away from the knife to unlock the blade ("pick" at the lock with fingers/fingernails). You can typically tell a pick lock on sight by the bottom of the front guard bolster having a flat bottom, and often the edges of the lock head will be beveled to make it easier to grab onto.

Pick locks were the common design up until the 1960's when the Italians switched to using the swivel bolster lock release. You can tell a swivel bolster on sight by the bottom of the front guard bolster having a curved bottom.

There are other ways to tell the age of an Italian stiletto but those are ones you can tell by just a picture.

Of course there are some Italian makers that still produce pick locks, so not all of them are old. Frank Beltrame produced some several years ago under his own brand, as did the Campolins. Renzo Pascotto makes some now and then. And of course Latama currently sells new ones made by Frank Beltrame.

[jw517]

You are a wealth of knowledge! That is the most information I’ve read,heard,YouTubed,in a week! Thank you!!

[Madmarco]

Did you change your avatar since I mentioned it, cuz I thought you had a checkered shirt on?

[jw517]

Same shirt. You ok?

[Madmarco]

Well, I always thought I was, but judging from my recent comments perhaps not! lol!