Case Knife badge popped out

[P_D]

I dropped my Case Trapper Kickstart G10 and the badge popped out. Is there anything I need to consider before glueing it back in? Is there a particular glue I should use?

[Mumbleypeg]

Not uncommon. Superglue works great. Wipe the shield and the cavity with alcohol to remove any grease or oil before you glue it. Be sure to let both dry well. Just a drop of glue is all you need. Too much will make a mess.

Ken

[orvet]

I personally have not had great success with super glues when replacing shields. Most super glues don't have much Flex to them and the impact of dropping the knife can cause the shield to fall out again. I usually use a two-part epoxy, just a little bit is all it takes.
Ken is correct, clean the shield and the handle with alcohol before gluing it. If you happen to get a little glue on the handle, wipe it quickly with a rag soaked in alcohol. That will clean up the epoxy before it sets.

It should be an easy fix.

[herbva]

I like to make sure that I have all of the old glue or epoxy removed. I use the tip of a sharp pick or awl to scrape out all of the old stuff, and I sand the back of the shield in a "cross-hatch" pattern with coarse grit (which gives the epoxy more to grab onto) and then clean both surfaces with alcohol. I like to use the 5 minute epoxy because I think it may have a little more flexibility after it hardens than the longer curing epoxies. I also keep a rag wet with alcohol nearby so that I can quickly remove any excess epoxy that may squish out when I press the shield into place.

P.S. I picked up most or all of what I just mentioned from Dale and the other pros here on AAPK.

[1967redrider]

Try Loctite gel.

[P_D]

Thanks y’all. I went the epoxy route. I had some JB Weld in the garage. I guess I’ll see in 6-24 hours whether I did it correctly!

It’s a “working” knife, so if I end up adding a little more character to it I won’t be too upset, but I would hate to lose the badge if it falls out again.

[just bob]

Try Loctite gel.

Years ago, Kaleb suggested Loctite to me and I'm a believer. No doubt many good products are on the market, but when you compare price and availability Loctite is a good option.

[1967redrider]

Try Loctite gel.

Years ago, Kaleb suggested Loctite to me and I'm a believer. No doubt many good products are on the market, but when you compare price and availability Loctite is a good option.

It's my go-to glue.

[XX Case XX]

Try Loctite gel.

Yes. Good stuff!!

___________
Mike

[BIGHEAD]

Havent had it turn loose yet on anything.
Another small tip is rough up both surfaces with a dremel bit or such to give it some tooth so it will have something to hold to.

[98src]

You can't go wrong with Liquid Nails. It has never failed me.

[Reverand]

I am a firm believer that surface prep is as important, of not more important, than the adhesive.
I put a lot of trust in Gorilla brand adhesives: they work great and are fairly inexpensive. For knives I use Gorilla Glue (original), Gorilla Glue clear, Gorilla 5-minute clear epoxy, and Gorilla Super Glue. If will try other adhesives on occasion, but these work great for me and I go back to them often.

But back to surface prep: We have some units at work where rubber seals have to be glued onto slick stainless steel. The manufacturer uses a special glue that is $900 a bottle, and sometimes even it will not hold. I discovered that the stainless is polished too smooth from the factory.
When I have to replace the seals, I clean off all of the old adhesive, then I rough up the steel with 60- or 80- grit sandpaper.
I clean it with denatured alcohol (very important - microscopic pieces of silica becomes a lubricant!), then glue it with Gorilla Super Glue. It usually holds better than the $900 factory glue because we take the time to do proper surface prep!

[orvet]

I am a firm believer that surface prep is as important, of not more important, than the adhesive.

1000%

[BIGHEAD]

I am a firm believer that surface prep is as important, of not more important, than the adhesive.
I put a lot of trust in Gorilla brand adhesives: they work great and are fairly inexpensive. For knives I use Gorilla Glue (original), Gorilla Glue clear, Gorilla 5-minute clear epoxy, and Gorilla Super Glue. If will try other adhesives on occasion, but these work great for me and I go back to them often.

But back to surface prep: We have some units at work where rubber seals have to be glued onto slick stainless steel. The manufacturer uses a special glue that is $900 a bottle, and sometimes even it will not hold. I discovered that the stainless is polished too smooth from the factory.
When I have to replace the seals, I clean off all of the old adhesive, then I rough up the steel with 60- or 80- grit sandpaper.
I clean it with denatured alcohol (very important - microscopic pieces of silica becomes a lubricant!), then glue it with Gorilla Super Glue. It usually holds better than the $900 factory glue because we take the time to do proper surface prep!

90% used for fiber optic cable cleaning.

[orvet]

Kroger sells a pint bottle of 99% isopropyl alcohol for about $3 and Walmart has a 91% isopropyl alcohol for about the same price. I find there's really no difference between the two in terms of cleaning. It's inexpensive and one of the most effective cleaners I have found for knife work.