Suspicious 6318 Currently on Ebay

[RedBone6318]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/266659521952?m ... media=COPY

Not entirely sure whats going on here. Looks like old blade in a modern frame. But the frame appears to have nickel silver liners. Current 18 pattern knives have brass liners.

Bone appears to be more modern color and modern jigging. Shield appears more modern as well. Pretty penny wanted for what looks like a parts knife to me.

Edit: Quick glance through his other listings and found this one as well. It also looks suspicious to me. I look forward to your alls opinions on these two, I could be wrong here.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/266659522139?m ... media=COPY

Edit #2: This guy has some doozies. Though this one he discloses the handle replacement in the description.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/266659459078?m ... media=COPY

[cody6268]

I have an eight-dot (1972) 6318 with nickel silver liners, so it is possibly correct.

However, it's at least heavily cleaned, and the seller was so lazy, they used the AI-generated listing description.

[RedBone6318]

As far as I know, the liners were nickel silver on the 18 pattern until the late 70s, like 77 or so. The shield and bone color/jigging look much more recent to me. Im thinking 2000s recent on that 6318 in the first link I posted but I could be wrong. If I am wrong, that knife has really, really been buffed.

Edit: On closer Inspection, it may in fact be a late 60s or 70s shield. Its the depth of the stamping thats confusing to me. Could just be a product of heavy buffing.

[knifeaholic]

The XX 18 is real, but was rehandled and cleaned at the Case factory. Note the newer style shield and the newer looking bone coloring and jigging.

Same for the XX '33 pattern that he has, exact same restoration - again, note the shield.

The '47 Tested has been buffed and rehandled, but they used the original shield. Not likely done at Case

And yes, the 18 had nickel silver liners through '77, also some percentage in '78 and possibly a few in '79. By 1980, NS was gone as a liner material.

[RedBone6318]

The XX 18 is real, but was rehandled and cleaned at the Case factory. Note the newer style shield and the newer looking bone coloring and jigging.

Same for the XX '33 pattern that he has, exact same restoration - again, note the shield.

The '47 Tested has been buffed and rehandled, but they used the original shield. Not likely done at Case

And yes, the 18 had nickel silver liners through '77, also some percentage in '78 and possibly a few in '79. By 1980, NS was gone as a liner material.

Was looking forward to your opinion. How do you know if it was done by Case or not?

[knifeaholic]

The XX 18 is real, but was rehandled and cleaned at the Case factory. Note the newer style shield and the newer looking bone coloring and jigging.

Same for the XX '33 pattern that he has, exact same restoration - again, note the shield.

The '47 Tested has been buffed and rehandled, but they used the original shield. Not likely done at Case

And yes, the 18 had nickel silver liners through '77, also some percentage in '78 and possibly a few in '79. By 1980, NS was gone as a liner material.

Was looking forward to your opinion. How do you know if it was done by Case or not?

Well, the bone is one way to tell, but mainly the shield. Study the shields on those and compare to the real thing. The modern shields have a different look, and on small patterns like the 33 they are shorter and since they are glued in, they don't have space at each end for the shield pins.

[RedBone6318]

The XX 18 is real, but was rehandled and cleaned at the Case factory. Note the newer style shield and the newer looking bone coloring and jigging.

Same for the XX '33 pattern that he has, exact same restoration - again, note the shield.

The '47 Tested has been buffed and rehandled, but they used the original shield. Not likely done at Case

And yes, the 18 had nickel silver liners through '77, also some percentage in '78 and possibly a few in '79. By 1980, NS was gone as a liner material.

Was looking forward to your opinion. How do you know if it was done by Case or not?

Well, the bone is one way to tell, but mainly the shield. Study the shields on those and compare to the real thing. The modern shields have a different look, and on small patterns like the 33 they are shorter and since they are glued in, they don't have space at each end for the shield pins.

I saw that on the 33 but on the 18, it is the enlongated shield. Thats what was throwing me off. Modern looking stamp but elongated shield.

[1967redrider]

Pictures of the -18, I think it has been reprofiled to death. The main clip looks like a punch now.

Can't imagine someone would counterfeit a -32.

The -47 is a whole other ball of wax, as Steve said.

[knifeaholic]

In the '90's, the "glue-in" shields were more elongated with pointed ends, similar to the older ones. They gradually reduced them. Look at a modern 3318.

[Mumbleypeg]

For posterity sake here’s the seller pictures of the others in the discussion. As Steve has pointed out the 18 and 33 have glued on shields - they were originally pinned on but have been glued on for about 20 years (exceptions being Case Select and Case/Bose collaborations. If you send a knife to Case for repair it will get a glued shield.

Ken

6318

IMG_6244.jpeg (33.51 KiB) Viewed 1083 times

6333

IMG_6249.jpeg (27.02 KiB) Viewed 1065 times

[RedBone6318]

In the '90's, the "glue-in" shields were more elongated with pointed ends, similar to the older ones. They gradually reduced them. Look at a modern 3318.

Got it. Thanks for the info.

[RedBone6318]

For posterity sake here’s the seller pictures of the others in the discussion. As Steve has pointed out the 18 and 33 have glued on shields - they were originally pinned on but have been glued on for about 20 years (exceptions being Case Select and Case/Bose collaborations. If you send a knife to Case for repair it will get a glued shield.

Ken
IMG_6244.jpeg

Thanks for inserting the pics into the thread for others. Im not sure on how to do that part. Only thing I would like to point out is the middle picture of a 33 pattern you posted isnt the picture of the knife in the link I posted. The shield and handle is very different.

[Mumbleypeg]

Oops - I think I copied the wrong picture. I’ll see if I can fix it.

Ken

Edit: I fixed it. eBay made a software revision update a while back, making it much more difficult to copy pictures. Maybe that wasn’t their objective (it wouldn’t surprise me though) but it was nonetheless the result.

[1967redrider]

Sorry for delaying the pictures I was posting, Ken.

[knifeaholic]

Oops - I think I copied the wrong picture. I’ll see if I can fix it.

Ken

Edit: I fixed it. eBay made a software revision update a while back, making it much more difficult to copy pictures. Maybe that wasn’t their objective (it wouldn’t surprise me though) but it was nonetheless the result.

Ken; I just noticed that photo change - we used to be able to right click and download a JPG, now it is a WEBB file.

Have you figured out a workaround?

I very frequently save interesting ebay photos of knives and knife ephemera, but this change makes it impossible.

[knifeaddict1965]

Oops - I think I copied the wrong picture. I’ll see if I can fix it.

Ken

Edit: I fixed it. eBay made a software revision update a while back, making it much more difficult to copy pictures. Maybe that wasn’t their objective (it wouldn’t surprise me though) but it was nonetheless the result.

Ken; I just noticed that photo change - we used to be able to right click and download a JPG, now it is a WEBB file.

Have you figured out a workaround?

I very frequently save interesting ebay photos of knives and knife ephemera, but this change makes it impossible.

Steve, Not sure if this is what your looking for, but when saving eBay pics, I have found the snipping tool to be useful. With this, I can snip whatever part of the picture I want and save it to a folder. Hope this helps...

[Mumbleypeg]

Ken; I just noticed that photo change - we used to be able to right click and download a JPG, now it is a WEBB file.

Have you figured out a workaround?

I very frequently save interesting ebay photos of knives and knife ephemera, but this change makes it impossible.

I'll try to post the workaround process I use this afternoon after I get home from church. It works on my iPad but it's not as simple as it used to be. I'll try it on a PC to see if something similar will work on that platform too.

Maybe others have figured out a better way than I have (I hope).

Ken

[just bob]

If using MS right, click and save the picture. Open the picture with paint. Then select save as and select save as jpg. I think Jerry first explained this.

If using tablet, phone or other similar device consult with your grandchildren. They can explain it.

[knifeaholic]

Thanks, Ken and Bob.

[1967redrider]

I view this website and eBay on my phone, pretty much exclusively. When I pull up an eBay picture, I download it to my phone, pull it up in Google or gallery photos, screenshot it and then it will post to AAPK as a .jpg.

[Mumbleypeg]

Here’s a tutorial on how I now capture an ebay seller’s pictures as .jpeg extensions.

Open the eBay listing.

On an iPad tablet put your finger on the picture you want to save, hold it there and drag it all the way to the right margin of your frame. That will open a second frame, with the picture you dragged there in it. After that new frame opens, lift your finger.

You should now have two side-by-side frames open, with the picture to be saved in the right side frame. Now place your finger onto the picture that is now in the new (right hand) frame, which will open a drop-down menu.

Select “save to photos”. The picture should now be in your saved photos file. From which you can post it in the post here, using the “Attachments” tab below your post. To close the new (right hand) frame, double click the “home” button. Then place your finger on the right hand screen and swipe up. Which will drag it off your screen. The left side should remain. Click the home button again to make it return to full screen mode.

I’ll try it on my PC using right click and drag instead of finger and drag, and see if it works.

Ken