My wife picked up at an estate sale what I believe is called a "Leverlock" made by IHER in Spain. Stainess blade with brass bolsters. Black plastic scales. Kinda' works, but will not close completely within the handle nor deploy the blade fully.
Any info or pics of a similar knife would be appreciated.
Thanks
Iher Leverlock
- Pen & Toothpick
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Re: Iher Leverlock
Goins says 1960 - 1980.
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knife7knut
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Re: Iher Leverlock
Without seeing the knife I can only speculate but the problems you are having with it are related.The reason the blade usually doesn't seat fully closed is that the pin is worn slightly and will cause the blade to protrude and sometimes accidentally release.nifenut wrote:My wife picked up at an estate sale what I believe is called a "Leverlock" made by IHER in Spain. Stainess blade with brass bolsters. Black plastic scales. Kinda' works, but will not close completely within the handle nor deploy the blade fully.
Any info or pics of a similar knife would be appreciated.
Thanks
People try to cure this by reducing the space between the liners and the blade(which causes side to side movement)by hammering on the pivot pin.The slop is removed but the friction created between the blade and liners causes the blade to not fully deploy.
There is no real easy fix for this.The only real way to fix it is to disassemble the knife and add a bit of metal(by welding)to the release pin and then grinding it down to fit properly.Not a job for the amateur.And a professional repairman will likely charge more than the knife is worth to fix it.Just my opinion.
Adventure BEFORE Dementia!
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Re: Iher Leverlock
I appreciate the info knife7knut!
I figured it wasn't worth the time and trouble (I have) getting pics up
for the same reason.
The knife is in good shape. Very little wear on the handles and the blade looks shiny and unsharpened. The seller didn't know how to open it and I wondered if he tried to pry it open a few too many times.
It is neat. The blade is hinged at one end with a pin and backspring and the spring that forces the blade open is hinged at the other end and assisted by tha same backspring that opens the blade.
You can pull out the spring that forces the blade open, from between the liners and fold it back out of the liners as though it were a blade. It has tension from the blade abckspring from the opposite end of the backspring. I have ahd switchblades where the switch spring is inserted at an angle in the bolster. This one is different.
I noticed the release (lever) in the locked position engages a square hole in the tang of the blade in the "cocked" position. As you said, there is probably too much "play" in the hinge pin of the blade now.
I was able to arch the ejection spring to allow the blade to deploy fully and rapidly, but I can see no easy fix to make the blade seat completely in the handle. The tip of the blade sticks up 3/16ths above the liner.
Thanks again.
Jim
I figured it wasn't worth the time and trouble (I have) getting pics up
for the same reason.
The knife is in good shape. Very little wear on the handles and the blade looks shiny and unsharpened. The seller didn't know how to open it and I wondered if he tried to pry it open a few too many times.
It is neat. The blade is hinged at one end with a pin and backspring and the spring that forces the blade open is hinged at the other end and assisted by tha same backspring that opens the blade.
You can pull out the spring that forces the blade open, from between the liners and fold it back out of the liners as though it were a blade. It has tension from the blade abckspring from the opposite end of the backspring. I have ahd switchblades where the switch spring is inserted at an angle in the bolster. This one is different.
I noticed the release (lever) in the locked position engages a square hole in the tang of the blade in the "cocked" position. As you said, there is probably too much "play" in the hinge pin of the blade now.
I was able to arch the ejection spring to allow the blade to deploy fully and rapidly, but I can see no easy fix to make the blade seat completely in the handle. The tip of the blade sticks up 3/16ths above the liner.
Thanks again.
Jim