SCHRADES MY TRUE LOVE

glennbad · Post by **glennbad** » Fri Dec 15, 2006 3:32 pm

A little off-topic, but I always wonder...

Rich, you have alot of cell handled knives. I have 1 or 2 myself.

Have you had any problem with the cell gassing, and if not, why?

Glenn

lt632ret · Post by **lt632ret** » Fri Dec 15, 2006 4:49 pm

Hey Glenn I do not consider it off topic if You have knives especially those you wish to preserve it is good to know opinions on how to do it and why they can go bad. I am attaching an article I did a couple of years back hopefully it is legable. The end deals with cell and some of the problems it poses. If you need more or something more specific just let me know. Where ya been ? LT Wow what a nightmare to take pics of let me know if it makes any sense. Sorry. Again anything specific i can help with my pleasure. LT PS since after all this picture taking it is just confusing the problem . Cell is made of Camphor and nitrates nitrates are essentially SHI- literaly this is part of what gunpowder is composed of. It is also a favorite product for terrorist bombers. There fore like most of these aforementioned idiot zealots the products made from it tend to be a bit unstable. Celluloid gives off acetylene gas. if kept in a closed area it builds up and affects other artifacts in the area exposed metal rusts other cell starts to deteriorate. Cell can be affected by most any thing temperature, light, possibly even PMS. Often cell not washed correctly when made will all of a sudden start to turn in what looks like a gooey cancer or the picture of Dorian Gray. Keep it at a constant room temperature dark is better than light, sunlight has the same effect it does on vampires. well ventilated DO NOT store in a roll or closed drawer. Try to store cell knives seperate from others when one starts to go either throw it away or get it rehandled but segregate it from the others ( perhapes quarenteen is a better word. ( if i could spell it ) . Then when you have done everything possible just sit back and wait for you next cell knife to simply decide to go It will if it wants to no matter what you do. If I get one on ebay which has the beginnings of the disease I get rid of it. Hey have I sent you any knives recently ( just kidding ). Try and read the article it won't be easy. This is just a cursory explanation so let me know what else you need. Oh yes Highly flammable, old knife companies stored this stuff in special building outside the plant they had roofs with hindges so that the buildup of gas could escape the stuff often burst into flame from just cutting it to quickly. All the companies were used to cell fires . New cutlers would be given a piece and told to make a handle then the old timers would watch him cut it to fast and burn himself ( some joke eh ). it is about the prettiest handle material ever made and the most dangerous . Just like a woman.

glennbad · Post by **glennbad** » Fri Dec 15, 2006 5:14 pm

Sadly,

Work gets in the way of alot of my "online" activities. I have not even had alot of time down in my shop, where I have 2 suitcases full of knives waiting to be "processed". It's really a darn shame.

If I was a girl, I would let you be my sugar daddy, then I could quit work and play with my knives full time.

Sorry for that image, folks...

I see all the great displays everyone is doing, and the great pimping that MM has been doing. I'm very jealous. Oh well, maybe after the holidays I can get some me-time in the dungeon.

Glenn

lt632ret · Post by **lt632ret** » Fri Dec 15, 2006 5:45 pm

Glenn truthfully I am really glad you are not a girl. It eliminates temptation. LT You bad woofer.

El Lobo · Post by **El Lobo** » Fri Dec 15, 2006 5:50 pm

BILL

orvet · Post by **orvet** » Fri Dec 15, 2006 6:05 pm

Great article LT.

Is there some place I could order a copy, like the magazine it was originally published in?

I didn't see it in the article, but is Renaissance Wax good to use on celluloid? I use it on most all of my knives, even ones I make. I like the fact that it helps to prevent fingerprinting on the steel.

BTW, I recently began collecting TL-29s. Since I carried a Camillus version of the TL-29 in the Marine Corps I have always liked them. I had picked up a few more along the way and then decided to make an effort to find as many different ones of them that I can.
I was very fortunate to win a Schrade Walden 206S, on eBay, the Schrade Walden version of the electricians knife, a.k.a. the TL-29.

Does anyone else collect the TL-29?
LT, what do you know about these, or are they a bit outside of what you collect? I don't know a lot of history about them but I would like to know.

Thanks in advance,
Dale

lt632ret · Post by **lt632ret** » Fri Dec 15, 2006 6:37 pm

members.aol.com/akaswitchblades This is the site for the outfit I write for you will enjoy it. Use nothing on cell except perhapes carefully a little clear cool water if you must. Other wise apologize for bothering it and let it go back to sleep in the dark room temp. around 70 F. LT Automatic Knife Association

El Lobo · Post by **El Lobo** » Fri Dec 15, 2006 7:07 pm

Here you go gents, complete with a little ditty by the late Bobby Darin...

http://members.aol.com/akaswitchblades/index.html

BILL

orvet · Post by **orvet** » Fri Dec 15, 2006 7:36 pm

Great site LT.

Thanks for the link Bill. I joined, but I would like to know what issue the article you posted is in, LT. I would like to be able to read it straight through. I really appreciate your efforts LT (truly) at coping the pages. I hope to order a back issue.

Take care & thanks again,
Dale

lt632ret · Post by **lt632ret** » Sat Dec 16, 2006 1:04 am

Winter 03. LT PS I have written an article for the for every issue for 5 years since they began PPS I guess that makes you wonder how they stayed in business.

muskrat man · Post by **muskrat man** » Sat Dec 16, 2006 1:23 am

Great info LT, I deciphered the most of it, really good info.

Glad to see you are still around Glenn, began to wonder where you had run off to, make time for your knives

, too much work is bad

.

Ya'll have a good'un

orvet · Post by **orvet** » Sat Dec 16, 2006 4:35 am

They are out of that issue.
Well, I am now a subscriber so I will get the most recent issue in a week or so.

I am afraid this will have me buying a more expensive collectible knife.

LT,
if my wife kicks me out, I may have to come see your collection & stay for a year or two.

........No that won't work, my dog Gus, would probably try to play with your cat, Buster. Unless Buster is tolerant of dogs, I would probably have a big vet bill....................for Gus!

Take care & thanks for the info on the magazine.
Dale

lt632ret · Post by **lt632ret** » Sat Dec 16, 2006 5:35 am

Ok I am not selling subscriptions but here is some info no one knows ( this month FLY LOCK Knives Challange knife co). Bill who runs the show has approached me on doing a five year compilation issue or book tell him your opinion also ask him for any article you might want him and Cindy are the best. He might be able to help . They are aces. Mention my name hopefully it will not hurt your chances. LT

Rusty1 · Post by **Rusty1** » Sat Dec 16, 2006 5:44 am

orvet, if you decide you have to take a sabbatical at LT's place, I am sure you would be most welcome,

I visited last weekend,

I thought I would have to stay a year or two myself, just to understand the history that is wrapped up in this area of our collective interests ::blah:: ::blah:: ::blah:: Listen to this one, my wife asked me what I would like for Xmas,

you can't help some people!

Seemed like an easy question to me.

Rusty1

muskrat man · Post by **muskrat man** » Thu Dec 21, 2006 1:48 am

Here are a couple older cell handled schrades I just got home from an auction with, not bad for $10.50 each.

upnorth · Post by **upnorth** » Thu Dec 21, 2006 2:21 am

That sleeveboard pen looks nice and full, MM! Nice patina too!!!

muskrat man · Post by **muskrat man** » Thu Dec 21, 2006 2:22 am

Thanks. I was suprised at how full it was, most I have seen are bellied out pretty bad, from use.

Grizzly_Dog · Post by **Grizzly_Dog** » Thu Dec 21, 2006 6:05 am

Hello everybody. I have a few knives that I ended up with in a collection purchase that were the unfortunate victims of be stored with celuloid that broke down.

I have seperated all the knives and cleaned well and oiled, removed the bad celluloids to the garage(hate to throw away, were some great knives) and have put the celluloids that have not imploaded in two wood knife cases(far away from my others). But my question is is their a way to remove the surface rust on some of the effected knives? Some of them I can scrape with my fingernail and get off a little bit, I think this is what is refered to as bloom? I have been leary on cleaning with anything abrasive as I didnt want to damage the knives further with ignorance.

I also have some super nice Hatfield @ Macoy etched sets that were involved, etching itself does not have any on it but has small "blooms" just under. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Jim

P.S. Thanks for the storage info LT, I'll use your reference's to help repackage and store what cell's are not damaged.

jonet143 · Post by **jonet143** » Thu Dec 21, 2006 6:21 am

0000 steel wool and oil won't harm them. rub till rust is killed and oil heavily and soak. wipe dry/ that will stop the corrosion. remove all bad celuoid and rehandle or it begins all over. good luck. this is the way i have salvaged a few that were'nt too bad. good luck

upnorth · Post by **upnorth** » Thu Dec 21, 2006 6:25 am

Hey G_D,
You should remove the deteriorating celluloid handles from the knives in the garage, so they don't rust further.
Good luck cleaning the others. I'm sure someone will come up with a method for you.

Grizzly_Dog · Post by **Grizzly_Dog** » Thu Dec 21, 2006 6:42 am

Thanks for the help, I'll remove the handles when I get home friday, and try out the steel wool and oil.

I've been using Rem-oil, and from what I've read in posts on this site it should be good enough? Thanks again for your help and look forward to tapping everything I can from your knife info packed minds

lt632ret · Post by **lt632ret** » Thu Dec 21, 2006 7:29 am

All celluloid must be removed from the affected knives for now do not worry about the rust. after the cell is removed put the knives in soapy luke warm water leave about an hour. Then remove and put the knives in a bucket of cold clear water and leave another hour. Then remove in spect for no traces of cell other wise remove and re soak. when the knives are sans cell, dry as best as you can OVEN is good . remove when dry find a gallon jar with a top, fill halfway with Kerosene put all the knives in the jar and walk away. If you have a 8" grinder order a scotch brite 6" fine buffing wheel from Jantz or a similar place of you have a small belt sander order the same kind of belt. When the belt or wheel arrives. Put it on the appropriate machine and then remove the knives from the Kero. Then carefully buff the rust and polish the knife.( This is where I have almost killed my self ) not being real handy, when the knife is buffed oil with WD 40 . If the knife affected is NOT CELL and only the metal is affected fron contagon. Use the same procedure. except do not remove the handles.( caution use extreme care with temp and time for oven dry) If you wish to metal polish the knives dry the wd 40 and use Metal glow or just about any knife polish . Flitz is good but very aggressive. Try a couple see what you like . For handles ( NOT CELLULOID ) I highly recommend renassiance wax. Expensive but excellent . Take your seemingly unaffected cell knives out of the enclosed cases gently wash the handles in cool water dry by hand put them on an open shelf in room temp out of direct sunlight dark is even better but definitely open air then just keep your eye on them do not leave in an enclosed container especially after having been exposed to the other knives. Try not to put them in the proximaty of other knives, After a year or two if they have not gone bad you have corrected the situation ( er maybe) You can wd 40 the steel but try to avoid the cell . If these knives came in a roll unless it is an antique I would throw it away if it contained knives that turned. As far as etched knives well most factory etchs are electro or photo electro. So you have to decide whether to dick around trying to do the best you can, you can live with it or say the hell with the etch and just buff the blade or sell them explaining why you are getting rid of the knives. Depends hpw finicky you are and what you can live with. Regarding the original knives with the bad cell if you wish to rehandle modern cell is sold however you might want to consider jigged bone scales . I do not reccomend plastic or modern materials it just to me never looks right on an old knife. If you are not into rehandling if the knives are rare and you have them back in shape they make great swapping material for old displays and knives ect. Especially rare patterns. Now this is an optimum procedure oil steel wool rust erasures will all work to a certain degree. Of course there is my usual method I get ticked off and take it to an expert who usually is a friend he pours me a drink calms me down takes the knives makes them all better and has me pick them up. I hope this helps LT

jonet143 · Post by **jonet143** » Thu Dec 21, 2006 7:53 am

cool, lt. i was afraid my method was too aggressive for some collectors. i like your formula and will try it out.

orvet · Post by **orvet** » Thu Dec 21, 2006 4:41 pm

Great method there LT

I will give it a try as I recently got a couple knives where the celluloid was toast.

BTW, have you ever had someone, or done it yourself or seen, a re-handle of a shell handle knife with bone or wood, etc? If so could you please post a pic of you have one?

Thanks,
Dale

muskrat man · Post by **muskrat man** » Thu Dec 21, 2006 4:45 pm

Thats a great method LT.

Dale, here is a shell knife I redid with a rustic look, Hickory Bark. I can explain the process if you are interested.