Kershaw Scales

[garddogg56]

I have a Scallion that I really like but the scales are sooo cheap Has anyone ever rescaled a scallion ? If you have could you post some pictures? Thanx

[garddogg56]

I guess not thanx anyway.

[orvet]

I have never rehandled one of those.
I don't think it would be worth the time end effort to put new handles on one since they are not an expensive knife to begin with. If it hakes 4 hours to cut new handles by hand and then install them, it makes that knife pretty expensive.

[jerryd6818]

You don't like the aluminum, dogg? Or is it because they're plain? Have you considered having that engraver that occasionally hangs out here do an engraving job on the handles? It looks like he does good work.

Edit: I can tell ya, I sure like this Scallion.

[garddogg56]

No Jerry I have the plactic handles there kinda cheap and hollow.Orvet ya I know what your saying it's just that I like the Scallion alot and I wanted some ideas I'm really thinking one of my old antlers from a whitetail and that would take the every day plain look of the tacticals or mahogany but I don't know how it would hold up

[garddogg56]

See Jerry your Scallion has purpose mine is plain and hollow sooooo I J.B.Welded on some Irish herritage

[jerryd6818]

The claddagh does add a certain panache to it. Good idea. Personalizes it.

I didn't realize the handles are glass-filled nylon. Since the handles on the only one I've ever handled are aluminum, I did my usual and assumed they all are. Silly me.

Have you considered upgrading to a Leek? It's four inches as opposed to the Scallion 3.5" but it still has Speed Safe and it comes with aluminum handles that have various color schemes. They're available on eBay in the $20-$30 range if you're patient. Just a thought.

I don't know what Dale thinks. I would defer to his expertise, but it would seem to me that material such as antler would need a sturdy backing to make it last. What say you Mr. Dale?

[garddogg56]

Oh ya I never considered the backing,I have a leek but I don't like the way it rides in the pocket and I like the blade in the Scallion it's better for skining wire.

[orvet]

It would not be easy to cut something like bone or stag to fit it & then to get the holes drilled the right places. The stag or bone can’t be any thicker than the handles are now or the screws will have to be replaced. Finding replacement screws will probably be tricky too.

My biggest concern is what will come flying out when the handle is removed?
One of the guys who worked at Kershaw, (he said he was the plant manager), showed me how to adjust the action on those assisted openers. He made the remark, “There is a lot going on in there in a very little space.” Since then I have been concerned that if I took the handles apart I might have springs & parts shooting all over.

Has anyone had one of these open?
I really don't know what to expect inside.

[whitebuffalo58]

Kershaw Leeks.

Fileworked original handles and blades. Bolt on overlay handles, so the knife can still be taken apart for cleaning. I've got pics of about 4 or 5 more if I can find them.
WB

[whitebuffalo58]

Dale, they're piece of cake. Thrust spring tension is minimal in the open position. Very simple design actually. Lot of fun to customize, much easier than pinned knives.
WB

[orvet]

Dale, they're piece of cake. Thrust spring tension is minimal in the open position. Very simple design actually. Lot of fun to customize, much easier than pinned knives.
WB

Well, I learned something! Thank you!
How do the thicker handles feel in the hands?

Nice work BTW, did you do it yourself?

[whitebuffalo58]

Yah, I swung a deal on 12 Leeks awhile back and customized all but a couple. (kept the Rainbows original) Thicker handles are a big improvement. They feel really good in the hand, but still thin enough for comfortable pocket carry. I did away with the clip in order to add the handles to both sides.
I made a poster board pattern by tracing the handle, then scribed an 1/8" off all the way around to allow for the fileworked edges. Built, cut and shaped the handles. Then drilled, polished and attached by drilling and tapping #4 screws holes through the original handles. Location of the holes are the biggest trick, as one screw will fall in the channel that the thrust spring rides in. By simulating the motion of the spring, you'll see the area to drill and tap that's out of it's range of motion. The aluminum is soft and easy to file, drill and tap. Just be careful not too overtighten the screws. They'll tighten down sufficiently, just don't over do it. Don't forget to notch out the back handle for the safety lock.
Since these are an overlay handle, that may need to be removed occasionally. I created the channel inlay look by building them onto vulcanized spacer material to create a more solid slab. I think you can see the red one, but I used black on the other two, so it blends in and disappears.
They were alot of fun and I think they turned out pretty nice. You should give one a try sometime.
WB

[TripleF]

Now that's somethin' right there WB!!! Very, very very cool!

[whitebuffalo58]

Thanks Scott!

[Toejammer]

Love the black one !

I have a Leek, but I don't dare take it apart. I'll wait for the instructional video

[whitebuffalo58]

Thanks Jammer! I was a little intimidated on the first one too. But, once I opened it up, I found that the mechanics are child simple. There really is nothing to go BOING! In fact the ONLY difference between these and and a standard linerlock tach, is a single bent wire that acts as the thrust spring. One end fits into a hole in the blade, the rest just rides freely in a slot in the back of the handle. No tension at all in the half to full open positions.
Try opening your Leek, then start to close it. You'll feel where the spring starts to engage.
The only other small parts inside are the fiber washers between the blade and handles. On new Leeks they're held in place by the factory grease and you have to physically remove those.
The only loose part in the disassembly, is the lock tab, it's a simple mechanism, but you do want to watch how it's positioned as you open the knife up. No BOING, just has to be put back in the right direction. (only 2 ways it CAN go)
I havn't taken any of the others apart (Scallions, Chives, etc...) but would asume the mechanics are all the same. Nothing to fear fellers, they really are simplistic. Once you've done one, you could almost do any others blindfolded.
WB

[orvet]

Great to know WB, thanks for the tips!

[glennbad]

That's real nice work there, WB!

Glenn

[whitebuffalo58]

No problem Dale.
Thanks Glenn, if I could swing a deal like I got on the first 12, i'd do it all again. It could happen, just gotta catch the ol' boy in the right mood.
WB

[garddogg56]

Thanx WB for the mechanical knowlege

[whitebuffalo58]

Sure 'nuff dogg, glad to help.
WB