Cool Old Tools

If you can think of something to talk about that is not related to knives, discuss it here.
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Knife Nut
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Re: Cool Old Tools

Post by Knife Nut »

Tooth puller!?.....we prefer to call them an extraction forcep.
That one is made for the upper incisors and/or canines. ::nod::

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Re: Cool Old Tools

Post by Iron Hoarder »

Pretty sure that's an old tooth puller. :shock:
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Re: Cool Old Tools

Post by gino »

Here is some small pliers and a screwdriver. I added a penny for scale.
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Miller Bro's
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Re: Cool Old Tools

Post by Miller Bro's »

Nice ones Gino :wink:
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Re: Cool Old Tools

Post by gino »

Thanks ::tu:: ::nod::
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garddogg56
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Re: Cool Old Tools

Post by garddogg56 »

Some of my grandpa's tools when he worked for a local cutlery and watch repair shop in the early 1900s
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Miller Bro's
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Re: Cool Old Tools

Post by Miller Bro's »

Nice little Anvil GD ::tu:: ::tu::
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Re: Cool Old Tools

Post by gino »

Check this out, I picked it up today
Cool spring action wrench 8"

Heller Brothers Co.
Newark N.J. USA
Last Pat# Date 11/12/1929
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Re: Cool Old Tools

Post by gino »

I found another but this one is made in Germany
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Re: Cool Old Tools

Post by Miller Bro's »

8) These were used by plumbers.
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Re: Cool Old Tools

Post by garddogg56 »

Fosset wrench??
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Unk
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Re: Cool Old Tools

Post by Unk »

Back in 2005, I inherited a few of my Great-Grandfather's tools. He was born in Bramsche, Germany in 1856, and came to America in 1885. He settled in Missouri for a while, then moved to Oklahoma in 1906. He was a farmer and carpenter.

The tools were really rusty when I received them, so I wanted to preserve them as best I could, as I consider these family heirlooms. So first order was to stop the rust.

I made a little electrolysis bath for them, and it removed the rust (or at least most of it). Here are the before and after shots.

The Stanley #45 plane dates to pre-1895. I think most of these tools will date from 1885 to 1927, when he (Rudolf Wilhem Meyer) died. All these tools are kept in my home office in his camel back steamer trunk (circa 1875-1885 - which I also inherited).
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Chain Drill for bit and brace - for overhead drilling or drilling on a round pipe
Chain Drill for bit and brace - for overhead drilling or drilling on a round pipe
Hollow Auger for sizing the end of spokes or spindles
Hollow Auger for sizing the end of spokes or spindles
Hollow Auger
Hollow Auger
Stanley #45 plane - for beading and molding / trim - circa 1890-1895.
Stanley #45 plane - for beading and molding / trim - circa 1890-1895.
Stanley #45 plane
Stanley #45 plane
Stanley #45 plane
Stanley #45 plane
Spoke Sharpener
Spoke Sharpener
Electrolysis - Rust Removal on Stanley plane
Electrolysis - Rust Removal on Stanley plane
L.S. Starrett Speed Indicator - this was stuck in the side of the engine block and used with a watch second hand to determine the RPM of the tractor to run the PTO to power the thresher.
L.S. Starrett Speed Indicator - this was stuck in the side of the engine block and used with a watch second hand to determine the RPM of the tractor to run the PTO to power the thresher.
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Re: Cool Old Tools

Post by tjmurphy »

Those are pretty neat Unk. Nice to have some of grand-dad's things ::tu::
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Re: Cool Old Tools

Post by jerryd6818 »

Unk wrote: I made a little electrolysis bath for them, and it removed the rust (or at least most of it).
How about some details on that. I see a battery charger, a plastic five gallon bucket and some re-rod.
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garddogg56
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Re: Cool Old Tools

Post by garddogg56 »

COOL; Whats the amp meter read during this???
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Re: Cool Old Tools

Post by Unk »

Hi Guys,

I'm no expert on the process - lol. I did this only one time 6 years ago, so my memory may be a little rusty (pun intended).

There are several websites that describe how to do it (and how NOT to do it!). I do remember the re-bar on the sides kept gunking up (they are supposed to do this), so had to clean them (rinsed them off) every day while I was doing the tools. There are some soft metals as well as stainless steel that you shouldn't use this method on. It was real easy (and cheap) to do, though. I soaked all the tools overnight....I think I had to do some of them twice. It's kind of a "repeat as necessary" kind of thing, until it gets clean enough. It works by reversing the rust process and "pulling" the rust off of the steel, towards the sacrificial re-bar pieces (which is why they get gunked up.) I haven't ever tried this on a pocket knife....might be a little "too much" for some of the non-steel parts of the knife.

Here are a few of the websites that I used for instructions:

http://antique-engines.com/electrol.asp

http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/rust/ ... usting.htm

http://users.eastlink.ca/~pspencer/nsae ... lysis.html
Mike

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Unk
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Re: Cool Old Tools

Post by Unk »

Here's how I did it......

Supplies:
- 5 gallon bucket
- 5 pieces of re-bar (4 for electrodes plus 1 piece to hang the item being cleaned - I bought these pre-cut at Home Depot)
- 4 clamps to hold the re-bar to the sides of the bucket
- 2 alligator clips (you can use your clips from the battery charger, but I didn't want to submerge mine (the black one has to submerge) in the solution, so I made "extensions" for them using the alligator clips and electrical wire)
- Electrical wire ( I used an old torn up extension cord which I stripped the ends off of)
- Arm and Hammer Laundry detergent (not baking soda)
- Battery Charger

Mix the detergent and water to the specified mixture in the bucket. Clamp the 4 pieces of re-bar to the sides of the bucket. Wire the 4 pieces of re-bar together. Put the last piece of re-bar over the top of the bucket, making sure it isn't touching the other 4 pieces. Hang the item being cleaned from this piece of re-bar (I used a bent coat hanger to do this). Clip the black battery charger lead to the item being cleaned and submerge it in the solution (making sure it isn't touching the 4 pieces of re-bar). Clip the red lead to one of the 4 pieces of re-bar which are wired together and clamped to the side of the bucket.

Go watch TV and drink a beer.....for about 8-12 hours. Come back and remove the item and clean the black gunk off of it with a paper towel. Then marvel on how many hours of dremeling, sanding, wire brushing you just saved yourself.

Notes - I kept the wood handle of the Stanley plane OUT of the solution, as shown in the pictures. I also cleaned the brass parts by hand - not in the solution.
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The electrolysis rig
The electrolysis rig
Bubbles coming up
Bubbles coming up
Fresh out of the electrolysis bucket...
Fresh out of the electrolysis bucket...
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Re: Cool Old Tools

Post by Miller Bro's »

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Re: Cool Old Tools

Post by jerryd6818 »

Thanks Jerry. Now I need to bookmark this thread because I'll never be able to find it this summer when I get ready to do this. Wait a minute. Any odor go along with this procedure. Could I do it in the basement?
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Re: Cool Old Tools

Post by Unk »

jerryd6818 wrote: Wait a minute. Any odor go along with this procedure. Could I do it in the basement?
I did it in the garage with the door shut......it does give off some hydrogen, but the websites say that a Hindenburg like explosion is not likely. Most just say to use adequate ventilation......whatever that is.

The only odor it gives off is from the Arm and Hammer laundry detergent....lemony-fresh. :lol:
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Re: Cool Old Tools

Post by tjmurphy »

That's just what you need Jerry, a basement full of hydrogen gas, in the same room with the furnace and hot water heater ::dang:: ::teary_eyes::
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Re: Cool Old Tools

Post by jerryd6818 »

Image



OOPS -- :shock: -- :oops: -- ::facepalm::
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"The #72 pattern has got to be pretty close to the perfect knife."
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Re: Cool Old Tools

Post by tjmurphy »

::teary_eyes:: R.I.P. ::teary_eyes::
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Re: Cool Old Tools

Post by jerryd6818 »

Forged on the anvil of discipline.
The Few. The Proud.
Jerry D.

This country has become more about sub-groups than about it's unity as a nation.

"The #72 pattern has got to be pretty close to the perfect knife."
--T.J. Murphy 2012
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Re: Cool Old Tools

Post by knives-are-quiet »

Not too sure what this is or even if it is a tool.
Anybody have any idea?

JW
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