Rehandle Camillus 4 line

[RandyFew]

I've got an old Camillus 4 line, 4 blade camp pattern. The scales are In terrible shape. Otherwise the knife is in good condition. I would like to repair with authentic handle material. I do not want to just glue the new handles but want to pin them like there supposed to be. I have my shop set up and have done several rehandles. Any ideas on a solution?

[Iron Hoarder]

Disassemble the knife and have at it. Or send it to Orvet. You could even see if Orvet would be willing to show you how and take a mini-vacation over to his place and learn how to do it yourself.

[orvet]

Randy, when you say original material, do you mean the celluloid or early plastic that was originally used on your knife? I am pretty sure that the original handle material is not available and if it were, you run the risk of the same thing happening again. I would suggest re-handling the knife in bone.

Start by cutting the pins that hold the knife together. I suggest the razor blade method that I used in this tutorial: http://www.allaboutpocketknives.com/kni ... =38&t=5236

As you take the knife apart clean each part with alcohol and mark them so that you know where each piece went, especially mark the springs so that you know which end went to each blade. I suggest making a drawing of the knife so you know where each blade went.

Once you have the old handle material removed and the bone cut to fit the handles I suggest gluing the bone in place, then drilling and pinning the bone. The glue prevents moisture from getting behind the handles and it also keeps it from slipping when you're pinning it and reassembling the knife.

Once you have the new handle material pinned in place and the excess bone trimmed off you can begin the process of reassembling the knife.

It's pretty straightforward from that point on.

I hope this helps.

[RandyFew]

I appreciate the idea about bone. I'll order some when I get over the hammer I just bought. When I get into this old gem, will there be any thing besides the springs, liners and blades? Just wondering If there were any spacers or like. I might go up to see Dale and get a lesson or two. I've still got over 250,000 miles on my American Express. On second thought, I look better on AAPK than in person. I do not want the poor guy to have nightmares!

[orvet]

Randy, come out to Oregon for the OKCA show in April and I will show you how to fix the knife then!
http://www.oregonknifeclub.org/okcashow.html

Besides seeing how I work on a knife, you will be able to attend one of the best old knife shows in the world!

[glennbad]

+1 on making a sketch, taking pics of the knife as you take it apart, and marking the pieces.

I did one of those camper patterns, and I didn't pay close enough attention to all the parts. There was a brass spacer in there, and I had the worst time figuring out where it went.

It was like a cruel jigsaw puzzle.

Just take your time with it. I'm sure it will come out great.

Glenn

[Joe Dirt]

Hay, got the same project goin on Randy!
Got the scales off mine and cleaned the knife with Jasco phosphoric acid. Turned out really nice!
I'm just going to drill and pin the scales with out disassembling the knife.

Who carries the closest bone scale slabs to the old Camillus jig pattern?

..... Joe

[orvet]

Who carries the closest bone scale slabs to the old Camillus jig pattern?

..... Joe

Culpepper, IMO.
http://www.knifehandles.com/

[Joe Dirt]

Thanks Dale!

What ya think about the Amber Jig Bone?

http://www.knifehandles.com/catalog/pro ... mage/3034/

...... Joe

[orvet]

It looks good Joe, about like this-

[RandyFew]

I really hate to ask another question, but -----how do you peen the pin on liner side of the handles without disassembling the knife?

[orvet]

Very carefully.................seriously!
You will need a stiddy, a cutler's steady rest.

The thin lip on it is designed to be the solid surface against which you peen the pins. Of course you have to have them just the right length and it really helps if the inside of the liner was recessed around the hole & tapered so the pin will hold and there is a place for a bit of a head on the pin. Otherwise the peened head can rub the blade and make the blade stick.

I have done it both ways and as far as general repairs go, I prefer to take the knife apart. I think overall it is faster. The possible exception is of you have manufactured hollow pins exactly right length and the inside liner holes are recessed.

[RandyFew]

It is starting to look like glued on handles for this project. I guess that I need to remember-----baby steps. baby steps

[muskrat man]

if you want to go the easy route the first time to get a feel for things but like the look of pinned handles you could always put in fake pins

[RandyFew]

Fake pins would kinda like fake boo--s. I am going to break the old knife down and expect the best. I am just a little concerned that some small spacer might come out. I have put together some Rough Rider kits and have done a couple of rehandles, just not such a nice old knife. I appreciate the helpful hints. Since this old knife had the plastic scales that were melted in place and not pinned, I'll just have to drill the handles. I don't know why I am making a mountain out of a mole hill about this. I just gotta go for it.

[Toejammer]

The thin lip on it is designed to be the solid surface against which you peen the pins.

So THATS what the little lip on your stiddy was for ! I was always too embarrased to ask, but now it makes sense. True though, like you I've become better at breaking them down and pinning them pretty fast.

Learn something new every day