Making redwood "hard"?

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dewman
Posts: 409
Joined: Wed Jan 24, 2007 2:29 am
Location: Central Idaho

Making redwood "hard"?

Post by dewman »

I've got a few pieces of some redwood burl that is probably the most incredible looking wood I've ever laid eyes on, and I've seen some pretty fine stuff over the past 40 years. I've been hanging on to it for over 20 years, thinking that someday, I'd make a mantle clock out of it or something....but, it's just crying out to be on a knife handle. Only problem is, it's just so dang soft! Just wondering, does anyone know if it's possible to "inject" (probably not the right term....but you get my drift) some epoxy into it....or any other material, so it would be suitable for use in a knife handle?

I've got to run right now, but later....maybe tomorrow, I'll take some photos of this gorgeous material and let you feast your eyes on it.

Dewman
"This ain't Dodge City....and you ain't Bill Hickock!"
Hukk
Posts: 4546
Joined: Mon Mar 06, 2006 4:04 am

Re: Making redwood "hard"?

Post by Hukk »

dewman wrote: Only problem is, it's just so dang soft! Just wondering, does anyone know if it's possible to "inject"
I've got to run right now, but later....maybe tomorrow, I'll take some photos of this gorgeous material and let you feast your eyes on it.

Dewman
Get it Sabilized at K&G OR WSSI. It will lose it's wood feel, but it is preseved for life. Looks a bit ugly (as in damn, what did they do) but just smooth it it out by puttimg it on a belt sander on all sides and it will clean up nicely. I have about 12 lbs of Koa, York Gum Burl, Claro Walnut, Marblewood, Wenge, and Horistes Burls (Mallee) and a couple other woods at K&G now. WSSI can't do Claro Walnut, off to K&G it went.

WSSI does a great job also, they did some nice Buckeye Burl for me. But they can't do Claro Walnut - their process turns it black.

Stabilization is the only way I know of to make soft woods usable for knife handles. Buckeye Burl is very soft, I could dent some of mine an 1/8 inch easily with my thumbnail and some was spalted (fancy word for rot residue). Wood with spalting is desireable.
Here is a link for a piece of redwood that has been stabilized on eBay.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Redwood-Burl-Custom ... dZViewItem

If interested, post here or pm me and I can provde links and contact info with addresses for both. I did buy a couple pieces of Redwood last weekend for upcoming projects, hopefully the Docs will cut me loose in a couple months. I have about a 6 month back log. ::dang:: Nice that I have some work, going stir crazy cause I can't do it yet. ::disgust::
Hukk
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dewman
Posts: 409
Joined: Wed Jan 24, 2007 2:29 am
Location: Central Idaho

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Post by dewman »

Thanks for the info....and the E-Bay link, Hukk. My wood is every bit as nice as the stuff the guy has for sale, but of course, mine hasn't been "plasticized". Interesting process. I would imagine it's "pressure cooked" in a fashion, to force the hardening product into the wood.
"This ain't Dodge City....and you ain't Bill Hickock!"
Hukk
Posts: 4546
Joined: Mon Mar 06, 2006 4:04 am

Post by Hukk »

K&G INFO
You will need a signed disclaimer before they start work, the info is in the catalog,

http://www.knifeandgun.com
Sales Order 1-(800) 972-1192
Information 1-(928) 537-8877

Knife and Gun Finishing Supplies
1972 Forest Avenue Send wood blocks to this address
P.O. BOX 458 Order forms go here HINT: You'll get everything faster if you have the catalog and use the toll free number.
Lakeside, Az 85929-0458

WSSI
You will need a signed disclaimer before they start work on first order.

http://www.stabilizedwood.com

Wood Stabilizing Specialists, Int'l
2940 Fayette Ave
Ionia IA 50645
Toll Free Phone 1 (800) 301-9774

Antler and bone can be stabilized also.
Hukk
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