axe sharpening?

[mrwatch]

Best way to sharpen axes and hatchets, I see on YouTube that people put the sharp edge to a belt sander and sharpen towards the beard and cheek. Same way with a hand file, edge towards the handle. I would do it from the back towards the knife edge. Does it really matter? Then use a stone to remove the scratches. Also what is your preferred belt abrasive grit number?
Thanks

[FRJ]

I would think, with the tool mounted in a vice, that the judicious use of a file would be enough to clean up a blunt edge on a ax or hatchet.
I would then proceed with a large Carborundum stone to get a final edge. Always working towards the edge.
I think it matters.
Personally, I would avoid sanders.

[Mumbleypeg]

I agree with Joe. My method has typically been pushing a bastard file toward the butt of the ax, but I don’t see why pushing toward the edge would be incorrect. I think for the most part it depends on how you’re holding the ax in place. Secure the ax in a vise or against a solid surface holding it with your off (support) hand while using your dominant hand to hold the file or stone.

I have always used a bastard file and/or a whetstone. With a bastard file, push the file with each stroke. Lift it off the ax and repeat, going across the head from heel to toe with each successive stroke. Never pull the file back without lifting it off the metal - it will dull the file because they are made to cut in only the push direction.

Using a stone I’ve always used a series of small circular motions, going across from heel to toe or visa versa. When you get a burr turn the ax over and repeat on the other side.

I’ve never used a power tool to sharpen an ax and would not recommend it unless you’re very skilled at using one. A few folks are but for the average guy (or gal) it’s not necessary - and not much faster either IMHO. I have taught BSA Totin’ Chip to scouts for over 30 years. Here’s a link to a pretty good tutorial. http://www.bsa344.com/Totin%20Chip%20Lesson%20Plan.pdf The last section is about axes. I think it is fairly obvious why using that method to secure the ax is not conducive to sharpening toward the edge.

Note this was prepared for use by a specific scout troop and is not an official BSA document. Although it does cover all the requirements, specifics like sharpening angles are the preferences of the author, not the BSA. Specifics are demonstrated by the instructor and practiced by scouts during the class.

Ken

[Steve Warden]

I agree with Joe. My method has typically been pushing a bastard file toward the butt of the ax, but I don’t see why pushing toward the edge would be incorrect.
Ken

" pushing a bastard file toward the butt of the ax" - yup
I was under the impression that filing from the butt (or spine, in the case of a knife) toward the edge creates a very sharp, but very fragile edge.

[marinaio61]

When the edge is so bad that I need to take a file to it I push the file butt to edge. I feel like I have more control over the convex shape of an ax blade edge that way. When I use a stone I push edge to butt starting with medium/coarse, then fine and since I use my ax for carving as well as general chopping, I polish with a flesh-side strop and powdered Aluminum Oxide. There is an interesting YouTube video by Felix Immler that might interest you.

[Dan In MI]

There is an interesting YouTube video by Felix Immler that might interest you.

I believe this is the video you're referring to. Sorry, but I still haven't figured out how to embed them.

https://youtu.be/tWIxWjrhpv0

[marinaio61]

There is an interesting YouTube video by Felix Immler that might interest you.

I believe this is the video you're referring to. Sorry, but I still haven't figured out how to embed them.

https://youtu.be/tWIxWjrhpv0

No, the one I mean is titled "Rag Trick: Great technique to sharpen/reprofile a convex edge!"

[old4570]

[mrwatch]

Thanks for the replies, I also have a couple of very dry ax and hammer/mauls handles that I do not need to sand down. Do you have a preference of wood or furniture oils to feed the wood. I may still have some lemon grass oil tung oil?, comes to mind for finished furniture and underneath. Thinking the old day's of Homer Formby TV shows of furniture care and products.

[marinaio61]

I use raw Linseed oil on my wood tool handles, takes longer to dry but provides solid protection to the wood.

[FRJ]

Mineral oil wouldn't be a bad start.
I was watching a guy on you tube for a while and he liked this pine tar mixed with turpentine. 50/50.
Seemed plausible enough so I bought some. Haven't used it yet.

[Colonel26]

Mineral oil wouldn't be a bad start.
I was watching a guy on you tube for a while and he liked this pine tar mixed with turpentine. 50/50.
Seemed plausible enough so I bought some. Haven't used it yet.

I use raw Linseed oil on my wood tool handles, takes longer to dry but provides solid protection to the wood.

An old time recipe for plow handles (and furniture too it seems) and such was beeswax (enough to get your desired thickness), and equal parts turpentine and raw linseed oil (some today use boiled linseed oil). I’ve made it with parafin instead of beeswax and it worked very well too.

The old way was to heat the turpentine and LSO until it was hit enough to melt the wax or parafin. I did this outside in an old tin can with a propane torch (not exactly safe but it works)! Others use a double boiler to melt the wax or parafin and then just add that to the room temperature turpentine and LSO. Mix some up and keep it in a jar with a lid, and it’s right handy stuff.

[Reverand]

I used to use a whetstone on my hatchet.
When in the Boy Scouts, I once used it to whittle out a figure from wood.
I do not keep them that sharp anymore.