Anyone used the Shapton orange 1000 grtit whetstone
Anyone used the Shapton orange 1000 grtit whetstone
https://www.amazon.com/Kuromaku-Ceramic ... B001TPFT0G looks good on you tube for all around sharping , wandered if anyone here has used it , Thanks .
Shoot low sheriff, he's ridin a Shetland.....
Re: Anyone used the Shapton orange 1000 grtit whetstone
Can't help you with using the stone, but look forward to any reports on it.cbnutt wrote: ↑Sun Nov 26, 2023 7:13 pm https://www.amazon.com/Kuromaku-Ceramic ... B001TPFT0G looks good on you tube for all around sharping , wandered if anyone here has used it , Thanks .
Re: Anyone used the Shapton orange 1000 grtit whetstone
I usually use the Shapton glass stones and you reference one of their Pro stones. Note that I do have both. I have a 1000 Glass stone, but, I have not had any complaints with either of the stones. Note that I own a lot of stones.
The stone you reference, the Orange 1000 grit pro stone is an intermediate stone and great for moderate stock removal. This stone is good to use prior to polishing. This stone is labeled Coarse/Medium, and is formulated for stainless steel. This stone is very popular. I do not own one because I already own the Glass 1000 HR stone.
My expectation is that you would be very happy with this stone. That said...
In general, the Pro stones are Harder and release abrasive slower, they are formulated for more basic alloy blends of stainless and carbon steel.
Shapton Glass stones are considered Softer (but denser) and releases abrasive faster allowing them to cut faster. Because the Glass stones are denser, they feel harder but are called "softer" because they wear faster. GlassStones were developed specifically for the US market based upon experience gained from the Pro Series. Glass Stones differ in that they cut more quickly in the tougher steels such as cryogenically treated A2 common in Lie-Nielsen and Hock and Veritas blades. They are also engineered to be more economical by employing a glass base. This might make a difference in the harder knife steels but honestly, if the blade is sharp(ish), if seems that I can use almost anything to maintain that edge (even Arkansas stones). If the knife is dull and the steel is very hard, carbide and diamonds are your friend I suppose.
Pro Stones feel more like traditional waterstones in use and are more tolerant of coarse flattening plates like the DMT DiaFlat-95. Pro stones are thicker than glass stones, so if you sharpen a lot, perhaps that matters to you.
There are two types of Shapton Glass stones, "High Resistance" (HR) and High Carbon (HC). HR are designed for steels that are abrasion resistant; for example, A1, D1, and PMv11. HC stones were designed for knives with high carbon content. The HC versions are listed as great for a Japanese Chef knife but not for a Western Chef Knife. It was suggested to me that unless I wanted to exclusively sharpen a knife like that, stick with the HR version; and I have.
https://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/Shap ... -P742.aspx
https://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/Shap ... s-C84.aspx
https://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/Shap ... 48C84.aspx
The stone you reference, the Orange 1000 grit pro stone is an intermediate stone and great for moderate stock removal. This stone is good to use prior to polishing. This stone is labeled Coarse/Medium, and is formulated for stainless steel. This stone is very popular. I do not own one because I already own the Glass 1000 HR stone.
My expectation is that you would be very happy with this stone. That said...
In general, the Pro stones are Harder and release abrasive slower, they are formulated for more basic alloy blends of stainless and carbon steel.
Shapton Glass stones are considered Softer (but denser) and releases abrasive faster allowing them to cut faster. Because the Glass stones are denser, they feel harder but are called "softer" because they wear faster. GlassStones were developed specifically for the US market based upon experience gained from the Pro Series. Glass Stones differ in that they cut more quickly in the tougher steels such as cryogenically treated A2 common in Lie-Nielsen and Hock and Veritas blades. They are also engineered to be more economical by employing a glass base. This might make a difference in the harder knife steels but honestly, if the blade is sharp(ish), if seems that I can use almost anything to maintain that edge (even Arkansas stones). If the knife is dull and the steel is very hard, carbide and diamonds are your friend I suppose.
Pro Stones feel more like traditional waterstones in use and are more tolerant of coarse flattening plates like the DMT DiaFlat-95. Pro stones are thicker than glass stones, so if you sharpen a lot, perhaps that matters to you.
There are two types of Shapton Glass stones, "High Resistance" (HR) and High Carbon (HC). HR are designed for steels that are abrasion resistant; for example, A1, D1, and PMv11. HC stones were designed for knives with high carbon content. The HC versions are listed as great for a Japanese Chef knife but not for a Western Chef Knife. It was suggested to me that unless I wanted to exclusively sharpen a knife like that, stick with the HR version; and I have.
https://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/Shap ... -P742.aspx
https://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/Shap ... s-C84.aspx
https://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/Shap ... 48C84.aspx
Re: Anyone used the Shapton orange 1000 grtit whetstone
Thanks very much. Great insight.pitonyak wrote: ↑Tue Dec 05, 2023 10:01 pm I usually use the Shapton glass stones and you reference one of their Pro stones. Note that I do have both. I have a 1000 Glass stone, but, I have not had any complaints with either of the stones. Note that I own a lot of stones.
The stone you reference, the Orange 1000 grit pro stone is an intermediate stone and great for moderate stock removal. This stone is good to use prior to polishing. This stone is labeled Coarse/Medium, and is formulated for stainless steel. This stone is very popular. I do not own one because I already own the Glass 1000 HR stone.
My expectation is that you would be very happy with this stone. That said...
In general, the Pro stones are Harder and release abrasive slower, they are formulated for more basic alloy blends of stainless and carbon steel.
Shapton Glass stones are considered Softer (but denser) and releases abrasive faster allowing them to cut faster. Because the Glass stones are denser, they feel harder but are called "softer" because they wear faster. GlassStones were developed specifically for the US market based upon experience gained from the Pro Series. Glass Stones differ in that they cut more quickly in the tougher steels such as cryogenically treated A2 common in Lie-Nielsen and Hock and Veritas blades. They are also engineered to be more economical by employing a glass base. This might make a difference in the harder knife steels but honestly, if the blade is sharp(ish), if seems that I can use almost anything to maintain that edge (even Arkansas stones). If the knife is dull and the steel is very hard, carbide and diamonds are your friend I suppose.
Pro Stones feel more like traditional waterstones in use and are more tolerant of coarse flattening plates like the DMT DiaFlat-95. Pro stones are thicker than glass stones, so if you sharpen a lot, perhaps that matters to you.
There are two types of Shapton Glass stones, "High Resistance" (HR) and High Carbon (HC). HR are designed for steels that are abrasion resistant; for example, A1, D1, and PMv11. HC stones were designed for knives with high carbon content. The HC versions are listed as great for a Japanese Chef knife but not for a Western Chef Knife. It was suggested to me that unless I wanted to exclusively sharpen a knife like that, stick with the HR version; and I have.
https://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/Shap ... -P742.aspx
https://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/Shap ... s-C84.aspx
https://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/Shap ... 48C84.aspx
Re: Anyone used the Shapton orange 1000 grtit whetstone
> Thanks , i was thinking of using that stone after using a 800 grit worksharp diamond thats on my guided system , would i be better off going up to a finer grit than the 1000 , maybe go up to the 1500 insted ? Thanks .pitonyak wrote: ↑Tue Dec 05, 2023 10:01 pm I usually use the Shapton glass stones and you reference one of their Pro stones. Note that I do have both. I have a 1000 Glass stone, but, I have not had any complaints with either of the stones. Note that I own a lot of stones.
The stone you reference, the Orange 1000 grit pro stone is an intermediate stone and great for moderate stock removal. This stone is good to use prior to polishing. This stone is labeled Coarse/Medium, and is formulated for stainless steel. This stone is very popular. I do not own one because I already own the Glass 1000 HR stone.
My expectation is that you would be very happy with this stone. That said...
In general, the Pro stones are Harder and release abrasive slower, they are formulated for more basic alloy blends of stainless and carbon steel.
Shapton Glass stones are considered Softer (but denser) and releases abrasive faster allowing them to cut faster. Because the Glass stones are denser, they feel harder but are called "softer" because they wear faster. GlassStones were developed specifically for the US market based upon experience gained from the Pro Series. Glass Stones differ in that they cut more quickly in the tougher steels such as cryogenically treated A2 common in Lie-Nielsen and Hock and Veritas blades. They are also engineered to be more economical by employing a glass base. This might make a difference in the harder knife steels but honestly, if the blade is sharp(ish), if seems that I can use almost anything to maintain that edge (even Arkansas stones). If the knife is dull and the steel is very hard, carbide and diamonds are your friend I suppose.
Pro Stones feel more like traditional waterstones in use and are more tolerant of coarse flattening plates like the DMT DiaFlat-95. Pro stones are thicker than glass stones, so if you sharpen a lot, perhaps that matters to you.
There are two types of Shapton Glass stones, "High Resistance" (HR) and High Carbon (HC). HR are designed for steels that are abrasion resistant; for example, A1, D1, and PMv11. HC stones were designed for knives with high carbon content. The HC versions are listed as great for a Japanese Chef knife but not for a Western Chef Knife. It was suggested to me that unless I wanted to exclusively sharpen a knife like that, stick with the HR version; and I have.
https://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/Shap ... -P742.aspx:
https://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/Shap ... s-C84.aspx
https://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/Shap ... 48C84.aspx
Shoot low sheriff, he's ridin a Shetland.....
Re: Anyone used the Shapton orange 1000 grtit whetstone
In theory, I would be inclined to jump higher than the 1,000 after an 800 grit diamond, as you said, a 1500 or maybe even a 2000.
Much depends on the diamond however, because some diamonds leave deep scratches because they're not as consistent. So you might have a few stray larger diamonds. But if you don't have that problem, you probably can surely jump finer than 1,000.
That said, especially with knives, different metal types perform better with different polishes. I have a chart somewhere of a knife maker's opinion of how polished certain knife blades should be based on the blade composite.
So, you might want to keep that in mind while deciding, how fine you want to polish your blades. Also, depending on what you want to cut. Some things cut better with a toothy edge and some things cut better with a very finely polished edge.
If you live near the center of Ohio, you could wander over and we could sharpen as fine as you wanted to go. Ignoring straps. My finest stone is 30,000 from shapton.
Okay I dictate it all of that since I'm on my phone right now so I hope I got that right.
Much depends on the diamond however, because some diamonds leave deep scratches because they're not as consistent. So you might have a few stray larger diamonds. But if you don't have that problem, you probably can surely jump finer than 1,000.
That said, especially with knives, different metal types perform better with different polishes. I have a chart somewhere of a knife maker's opinion of how polished certain knife blades should be based on the blade composite.
So, you might want to keep that in mind while deciding, how fine you want to polish your blades. Also, depending on what you want to cut. Some things cut better with a toothy edge and some things cut better with a very finely polished edge.
If you live near the center of Ohio, you could wander over and we could sharpen as fine as you wanted to go. Ignoring straps. My finest stone is 30,000 from shapton.
Okay I dictate it all of that since I'm on my phone right now so I hope I got that right.