Ulster Barlow repair on my new channel

[Reverand]

Here is my first full-length knife repair video!
I have about 10 videos started, but am still doing some editing until I am satisfied with them.
This one is terrible, but I am learning!

https://youtu.be/q3If-h4vIvA?si=5SRGcalHn93t4yTi

[just bob]

I commend you for taking the time to make this video and posting it. Many have discussed doing this, but few have followed through with the idea. I've never met you, but my mental image of you wasn't far off. Keep us "posted" on your new projects.

[1967redrider]

[Ivoryman]

Rev, excellent video. I have been mystified by how the peening is done without wrecking the bone, and how to sand down the pins to flush without grinding bone. Very impressed you freehand it all. True craftsmanship and talent. Thanks a ton for the info and all the best. Keep the vids coming, love the info and seeing how you do it. By the way, what grit on the sanding belts? Where do you get a Stiddy like yours and how much? Thanks again, great vid.

[Reverand]

Thanks for the views and replies everyone (on both threads!)

Iman, I mainly use 400-grit sanding belts. Occasionally I use an 80- or 120-grit for hogging off a lot of material, and sometimes I use a 600-grit for smoothing, but the 400 does most of what I need.
With a good cloth polishing wheel I can usually go straight from the 400 to the polisher.
As far as the stiddy, I made it from a piece of short track I bought off of eBay. It is like a railroad track, but smaller. It probably came from an old amusement park ride that was scrapped, or something like that.
In reality, any chunk of steel will do. A small vise with a flat anvil spot on it is ideal. That piece of angle that I thinned and shaped on my stiddy is the only "speciality" portion, and you could make one of those and lock it in a vise.
I have a video just dealing with tools that I expect to post in the next couple of weeks.

[Ivoryman]

Thanks for the views and replies everyone (on both threads!)

Iman, I mainly use 400-grit sanding belts. Occasionally I use an 80- or 120-grit for hogging off a lot of material, and sometimes I use a 600-grit for smoothing, but the 400 does most of what I need.
With a good cloth polishing wheel I can usually go straight from the 400 to the polisher.
As far as the stiddy, I made it from a piece of short track I bought off of eBay. It is like a railroad track, but smaller. It probably came from an old amusement park ride that was scrapped, or something like that.
In reality, any chunk of steel will do. A small vise with a flat anvil spot on it is ideal. That piece of angle that I thinned and shaped on my stiddy is the only "speciality" portion, and you could make one of those and lock it in a vise.
I have a video just dealing with tools that I expect to post in the next couple of weeks.

Thanks a bunch. Appreciate the grit info. I have a 6 inch piece of short track. But the piece attached to it is the mystery. Thanks again for the answers. Very helpful and loved watching. I was surprised you did not solder or epoxy in the pin section used to fill the old worn hole in the tang before drilling the new pivot hole. Since you redrill out most of the pin filling the old hole, what keeps the rest from moving? Just peening tension? Seems like it would move but maybe I'm imagining wrong here? Can't wrap me head around that if you could explain. Thanks again for all the tips. Great stuff.

[Reverand]

Thanks for the views and replies everyone (on both threads!)

Iman, I mainly use 400-grit sanding belts. Occasionally I use an 80- or 120-grit for hogging off a lot of material, and sometimes I use a 600-grit for smoothing, but the 400 does most of what I need.
With a good cloth polishing wheel I can usually go straight from the 400 to the polisher.
As far as the stiddy, I made it from a piece of short track I bought off of eBay. It is like a railroad track, but smaller. It probably came from an old amusement park ride that was scrapped, or something like that.
In reality, any chunk of steel will do. A small vise with a flat anvil spot on it is ideal. That piece of angle that I thinned and shaped on my stiddy is the only "speciality" portion, and you could make one of those and lock it in a vise.
I have a video just dealing with tools that I expect to post in the next couple of weeks.

Thanks a bunch. Appreciate the grit info. I have a 6 inch piece of short track. But the piece attached to it is the mystery. Thanks again for the answers. Very helpful and loved watching. I was surprised you did not solder or epoxy in the pin section used to fill the old worn hole in the tang before drilling the new pivot hole. Since you redrill out most of the pin filling the old hole, what keeps the rest from moving? Just peening tension? Seems like it would move but maybe I'm imagining wrong here? Can't wrap me head around that if you could explain. Thanks again for all the tips. Great stuff.

Yes sir, just peening it holds it in place. I believe it was Olde Cutler who told me about that trick, here on AAPK. I had tried making an off-centered brass bushing but it didn't work.
I have learned SO much from the great knife mechanics on this site! I still do!

[Jeffinn]

What a great instructional video!
Anyone who’s thinking about refurbishing pocket knives could definitely get started with the info provided in this video.
Jeff

[Reverand]

What a great instructional video!
Anyone who’s thinking about refurbishing pocket knives could definitely get started with the info provided in this video.
Jeff

Thank you for the kind words!

[L8Tagain]

I really enjoyed this video, and your channel. This is the kind of stuff that brought me to this forum.

Thank you and keep up the Great videos!

[Reverand]