Tools for custom knifemaking

[chevyc10]

Heres what I have:

compresssor with cut off wheel and die grinder
angle grinder
sharpening stones
reciprocating saw
jig saw

And I had a bench grinder until yesterday but it broke

If I want to buy a band saw, bench grinder, and belt sander, in what order would you buy those?

I have made some customs with stock removal and am looking to get more serious

[Curtis Wilson]

1st Bench grinder/buffer, belt grinder, and band saw. Basically if you 've got these you can do most any knife designed. But seriously I probably would go with the belt grinder/sander first.
Curtis

[knifemaker3]

I ain't used my bench grinder in years. I mainly use my belt sander, even when doing other things besides knifemaking like sharpening lawn mower blades, grinding welds when I can hold them by hand, etc. simply because it works much faster than a regular bendh grinder.

I use my bandsaw almost everytime I go to the shop to make knives, although I could scrape by without it if need be and go back to using a hacksaw.

If it were me, I'd get a good belt sander and then a bandsaw. Definitely both at the same time though if you can afford it.

The hunt for tools is almost as much fun as making knives IMHO!

Good luck and post some of your work here where we can all see!

[Hukk]

Yes, I would have to agree with getting a GOOD belt grinder and a bandsaw for steel cutting. A bandsaw for cutting wood is of little use when it comes to cutting steel because they run so fast for steel. My steel cutting bandsaw runs from 80 RPM to 240 RPM - I think. I usually use Bi-metal bandsaw blades, Starrett or Lenox Bi-Metal is what I usually get. They are pricey but they last so long that I think they are well worth the money. I would get a buffer after those 2 items because not every blade needs a mirror finish. A buffer that runs at 1700 to 1750 RPM over a 3600 RPM buffer though.

[tbark44]

Drill press #1 Belt Grinder #2 Bandsaw #3 , I use a modified portaband from greenlee ,I made a table for it to cut onan it works better than anything I have ever used , t

[blademaker]

When I started I had a hand held beltsander turned right side up,held in a vise,a hacksaw, some sharp files, a drill, and sandpaper..really doesn't take much...mostly some inspiration....I'd say a belt sander/grinder would be at the top of the list.....I'd say keep it simple, don't spend alot of money on something you can live without, until you get a few first knives made...then you'll figure out what you need and suits you....

Good luck

Craig

[chevyc10]

Well I finished practice knife three.

Ended up with a crastman 10" band saw and a craftsmen belt sander. Already have an angle grinder and knife sharpener so this is pretty fast. Im going to start my first real try at a good knife in a few minutes. Just looking for a design.

[chevyc10]

Ok Ive gotten pretty good at making the blade shape, but still cant get a good straight grind. Can anyone point me in the right direction?

[blademaker]

you've got the blade shape.....become one with the grinder ......sorry....chevy where ya at with you're blade

Craig

[knifemaker3]

I'll try to explain how I grind free hand. It works for both hollow grinding with a wheel and flat grinding with a platen. Visualize a straight line across the wheel or platen and start you grind at the plunge cut and grind to the tip. If hollow grinding keep the edge of the knife along the straight line visualized on the wheel. This will require dipping the handle downward toward the tip to keep the edge along the visual line. If flat grinding on a platen lift handle outward slightly as you near the tip but don't dip the handle downward. This will grind the tip properly.

I hope that isn't clear as mud and you can understand what I'm trying to say. I don't have capability to make a video to show you or I would.

Practice, Practice, Practice. It gets easier the more you do.

Maybe someone else will be better able to explain it.

Good Luck!

[chevyc10]

So you are saying visualize a line on the bench sander, and (for a flat grind) just keep the start of the bevel on the line? On a bench sander, do I go this on the flat side or on the wheel?

[Hukk]

Looks like we may be talking about different grinders. Here is a view from my bench of a 4 x 36 sander/grinder and in background is a 220V 2 HP Bader III with Variable speed control using a 2 x 72 belt grinder with a platen on it - no belt is on it. Wheels for hollow grinding range from 5 to 14 inches. The orange grinder is a bench type grinder - one stone wheel and one wire wheel.

Here is the variable speed control for the Bader with the small wheel attachment

[knifemaker3]

I done a fixed blade tutorial here on the forum last Feb. It tells and also has some pics of how I flat ground the wharnie style fixed blade I did for the tutorial. Here is the link:

http://allaboutpocketknives.com/knife_f ... 38&t=11197

Hope this better explains what I'm trying to say.

[Diligence]

for what it's worth, I use a 4x36 sander. For making stock removal blades, I mark a centerline down the middle of the thickness of the blade, and mark the top of my bevel (on the side of the blade)...then it's just a matter of slowly removing everything that doesn't look like a knife blade.

Keep at it, and I'd suggest starting with something simple (and thin) for your first few.

D

[jkf96a]

1. drill press 2. Belt Grinder 3. band saw.
Craftsman makes a 2x42 grinder that has a much better reputation and selection of belts than a 4x36. Costs about 150 on sale. Up from there you've got the Grizzly and Coote that will each run about $600, or the KMG and Bader at 1200+.

The key to getting good flat grinds is indeed practice. Scribe a line down the center of your knife blank. The easiest way to do that is to use a drill bit the same size as your stock thickness. Grind at a 45 degree angle to start with until you have your edge thickness set, at around half a dime thickness. From there, start "walking" your bevel up toward the spine. You'll develop a feel for when the grinder is on the flat of the blade. You'll also figure out how to take more from the edge or the spine depending on where you put the pressure. Some guys recommend practicing on mild steel or wood paint stir sticks.

Jason

[gmusic]

Very good advice Jason.

You make some very nice knives, I just checked out your web site.