Rigging knife question

[JAMESC41001]

Working on restoring a rigging knife. This is the first knife I'm working on. It's in bad shape. Was given to me for free. The pins slide into what I can best describe as a stepped shoulder bushing. But I don't know If this is the correct name. These bushings are recessed into the handle material and then the pins are peened over. I'm trying to buy some new pins and bushings but can't seem to find any. Can someone set me straight.

[just bob]

Maybe a rivet and a washer? Some of the others will know on this but I think it is like the sodbuster? A pic would help.

[glennbad]

Sounds like this is what you are talking about...



I am working on one also, but I don't think I am going to use the bushings. Are you sure you need to use them on your rebuild?

[orvet]

A picture of the parts and the brand name might be helpful.

The British military type like Glenn posted are a lot different than the ones Camillus made for themselves and for Case, Buck and others. If you are doing a Camillus I have some parts I bought on ebay, but it sounds more like you have the British type.

[JAMESC41001]

That is the knife Glenn. I can reuse the old bushings but was hoping to find nickel silver or stainless ones. When I disassembled the knife I noticed some of the pins had bent slightly. So I'm thinking the new pins should be a stronger material. Thanx for the offer Dale I do appreciate it. Does anyone know where I can buy this hardware and the proper terminology. I think their is a name for this method of knife construction.

[orvet]

The nickel silver pins you can get from Jantz Supply. They have the best selection of nickel silver pin stock. I usually buy in the 12” lengths in the sizes I need.

For stainless steel bushings I usually make my own from stainless steel tubing. The best selection of stainless steel tubing I have found is at my local True Value Hardware store. They sell a variety of sizes. My local store has a better selection than I have found elsewhere. I have also found good selections in various Ace Hardware stores as well, though where I live True Value has a better selection of tubing in stainless & brass, and the Ace store has a better selection of brass pin stock. I think it just depends on what the individual stores stock.

You may be able to make a stepped shoulder bushing by using a small ring of the next larger size tubing around the end of the inside tube and then covering the end with a washer that has a small enough opening so that you could peen the nickel silver pin on the washer. If I could draw it, it would be easier to visualize. It would also depend on how much length you have to work with (how long the bushing needs to be) and how good you are at working with tiny pieces.

It would probably be easier to just use a tube, cover the end of the tube with a larger washer, (which would act as the shoulder), recess the washer into the handle and then peen a center nickel silver pin on each side to hold everything in place.

Even simpler, (depending on how large the existing hole through the knife is); just recess a washer in each side of the handle and peen a pin down on the washer. I have seen that construction method used on an old German sodbuster type knife.

Finding parts for old knives I have generally found to be an exercise in futility. If I don't have another parts knife, then I usually have to make the parts.

Good luck with this!
Please let us know what you do & how it works.

[JAMESC41001]

Hey Dale. Your the second person to tell me I should just fabricate these parts. I could use some bushings I've found and modify them a bit. The holes are threaded. Or I can just reuse the ones that came out of the knife. I'm still tooling up so I don't have everything I need which makes it frustrating. Also something called work is getting in the way of my free time. I still need that sting compressor. I will make some time to get to the post office tomorrow. This is a great site and the info that you and others are putting out is helping me and I'm sure many others.

[orvet]

A couple other thoughts:
Acorn huts & screws-
http://www.knifemaking.com/SearchResult ... nut+screws

Or you may be able to use corby rivets-
http://www.knifemaking.com/SearchResult ... rby+rivets

You just install the nuts or rivets and grind the top off flush with the handle.
That would keep you from having to make something or reinventing a fastener for it.
Both types of these fasteners come in brass, nickel silver & stainless. It might be a big time saver.


I find that there is a lot of stuff on the market that I am not aware of, and I just have to find them. I also find that a background in machine trades, like tool & dye maker would be very helpful. I have even thought of taking a couple classes locally just to learn some basic techniques & skills in machining metal. But I decided I am too old to go back to college, besides I graduated from college the first time at 49 years of age and finished a second degree at age 51. I am tired of college.

[JAMESC41001]

Here is a pic Dale. I'm just going to clean em up and use the same ones. No sense making this harder than it has to be.

[orvet]

Here is a pic Dale. I'm just going to clean em up and use the same ones. No sense making this harder than it has to be.

I agree! Not only is it easier it is original to the knife.
Unless I am doing a radical customizing job, I try to use original parts & fitments when possible.