seal porous antler pith
- tongueriver
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seal porous antler pith
What would be a good product to seal the end of a knife handle made of antler? I forged a knife and hafted it with elk antler which was not the best, as it has a porous place at the butt and another midway down the handle. I would like to seal it up and make it somewhat more smooth.
- Beavertail
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- edge213
- Gold Tier

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Re: seal porous antler pith
What about CA glue??
David
"Glowing like the metal on the edge of a knife" Meat Loaf
"Glowing like the metal on the edge of a knife" Meat Loaf
- tongueriver
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- edge213
- Gold Tier

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Re: seal porous antler pith
Yessir
David
"Glowing like the metal on the edge of a knife" Meat Loaf
"Glowing like the metal on the edge of a knife" Meat Loaf
- cudgee
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Re: seal porous antler pith
I already have some on hand, so that probably makes a difference, but would be using several light coats of Tru-Oil, and leave to dry overnight between coats, and leave it for 2 weeks to completely cure after the last coat. It dries rock hard, can be left shiny, or sanded back with 0000 steel wool to make a matt finish and will leave the surface area covered super smooth.
- orvet
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Re: seal porous antler pith
Depending on how porous the pith is, dictates the type of glue I use. If it is very porous I use 5-minute epoxy. Of course that usually requires sanding and a second application. Any remaining voids at usually fill in with zap a gap green, the medium viscosity see a glue.
If you want to dye the pith do so before applying any glue. Be careful, because the porous material absorbs to die very readily.
If the pith is very tight and not too porous, I would seal it with CA glue. Normally, I would use the zap-a-gap pink which is the very thin viscosity and I would allow that to run in as far as I wanted to to help make a good seal. They would do a second coat of the like pink CA and allow them to set up. You don't have to fill it up just a good coat down inside so you know the pith is beginning to be sealed inside. I think it holds things together a little better and helps to keep the med CA in place a little.
If you're still not happy with the results I would suggest a brass butt plate. It doesn't have to be brass oh, but I think brass would look good on it.
If you want to dye the pith do so before applying any glue. Be careful, because the porous material absorbs to die very readily.
If the pith is very tight and not too porous, I would seal it with CA glue. Normally, I would use the zap-a-gap pink which is the very thin viscosity and I would allow that to run in as far as I wanted to to help make a good seal. They would do a second coat of the like pink CA and allow them to set up. You don't have to fill it up just a good coat down inside so you know the pith is beginning to be sealed inside. I think it holds things together a little better and helps to keep the med CA in place a little.
If you're still not happy with the results I would suggest a brass butt plate. It doesn't have to be brass oh, but I think brass would look good on it.
Dale
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- tongueriver
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Re: seal porous antler pith
Thanks, guys; I appreciate the tips. I would like to inlet an old silver coin but I think I would mess that up. I will try the CA glue.
- orvet
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Re: seal porous antler pith
I like the idea of the silver coin, that is really nice.
The way I usually do something like that is to use CA glue to glue the medallion in the place I want it and then trace around it with a good sharp scribe so I know where I need to inlay the coin. Then a little tap with a hammer or piece of wood well usually knock the coin right off and you can cut out the area you need to inlay the coin.
When it comes to gluing the coin in place I use 5 minute epoxy.
The way I usually do something like that is to use CA glue to glue the medallion in the place I want it and then trace around it with a good sharp scribe so I know where I need to inlay the coin. Then a little tap with a hammer or piece of wood well usually knock the coin right off and you can cut out the area you need to inlay the coin.
When it comes to gluing the coin in place I use 5 minute epoxy.
Dale
AAPK Administrator
Please visit my AAPK store: www.allaboutpocketknives.com/orvet
Job 13:15
"Buy more ammo!" - Johnnie Fain
“Evil is Powerless If The Good are Unafraid.” – Ronald Reagan
AAPK Administrator
Please visit my AAPK store: www.allaboutpocketknives.com/orvet
Job 13:15
"Buy more ammo!" - Johnnie Fain
“Evil is Powerless If The Good are Unafraid.” – Ronald Reagan
- orvet
- Gold Tier

- Posts: 19901
- Joined: Tue May 16, 2006 6:23 am
- Location: Willamette Valley, Oregon
Re: seal porous antler pith
I like the idea of the silver coin, that is really nice.
The way I usually do something like that is to use CA glue to glue the medallion in the place I want it and then trace around it with a good sharp scribe so I know where I need to inlay the coin. Then a little tap with a hammer or piece of wood well usually knock the coin right off and you can cut out the area you need to inlay the coin.
When it comes to gluing the coin in place I use 5 minute epoxy.
The way I usually do something like that is to use CA glue to glue the medallion in the place I want it and then trace around it with a good sharp scribe so I know where I need to inlay the coin. Then a little tap with a hammer or piece of wood well usually knock the coin right off and you can cut out the area you need to inlay the coin.
When it comes to gluing the coin in place I use 5 minute epoxy.
Dale
AAPK Administrator
Please visit my AAPK store: www.allaboutpocketknives.com/orvet
Job 13:15
"Buy more ammo!" - Johnnie Fain
“Evil is Powerless If The Good are Unafraid.” – Ronald Reagan
AAPK Administrator
Please visit my AAPK store: www.allaboutpocketknives.com/orvet
Job 13:15
"Buy more ammo!" - Johnnie Fain
“Evil is Powerless If The Good are Unafraid.” – Ronald Reagan