Fixed blade Tutorial

[knifemaker3]

Hey all,
This Feb. I will have been making knives for 20 years. I primarily do fixed blades and utilize the stock removal method. So I thought for my 20th Anniversary I'd do a tutorial for AAPK. I contacted Bryan to get the go ahead and he graciously has allowed me to do this. Thank you Bryan!!

Now for the legal disclaimer: If you choose to make a knife you must realize the inherent danger of working around power tools. Booger County Outfitters LLC. nor it owner Craig Blankenship will not be held responsible should you try to make a knife using any method shown in this tutorial. This is only for purposes of showing how a knife is made at Booger County Outfitters LLC.

Sorry, but in this world we live in you have to cover yourself from lawsuits.

NOTE: This is how I make a knife. There are many different ways to accomplish a certain task. You may have another way to do the exact same thing I do a different way. Just remember that whatever works for you in your shop is the best way for you.

OK, Here we go. Please understand that I am no photographer. So the pics may not be the best. Also, if you have questions, don't hesitate to ask.

Here is a quick tour of part of the shop

[knifemaker3]

For this project I decided to make a new style of blade. I'm going to do my version of a wharncliffe (spelling right?) fixed blade. It will be from 440c stainless with a brass bolsters, 3 3/4" Blade, 8" OAL. I will probable use stabized walnut burl for the handle unless I change my mind.

First lets lay out all the parts needed. Steel, 2 sets of drawings, the original, and another to cut and layout the steel with. Brass barstock for bolster, brass pins, and handle materials.

[knifemaker3]

Next, cut out the paper pattern, keeping the original for reference, and either glue it to the steel, or in this case I painted dykem layout fluid on the steel and then scribed around the pattern.

Once the profile of the blade is on the steel, start cutting. I use a metal cutting bandsaw, but you can use a hacksaw and elbow grease if that is all you have.

Here is a pic of the starting cuts.

[knifemaker3]

I should have mentioned it but you only cut next to the scribed outline of the knife. Then, once it's roughed out you grind to the line on a grinder.

Here is one ugly fat knifemaker picture holding the rough cut knife.

[knifemaker3]

Next, refine the contour of the blade on the grinder. Here I am using the Grizzly grinder. I started out years ago with a homemade grinder, but then bought a grizzly. It's served it purpose well as long as you take into consideration it's limitations. Tracking is not very good with this grinder. Someday I'd like to upgrade to a KMG, but until then I will cripple along with the grizzly.

Grind right up to your scribed lines until the blade blank looks like you want it to look. Notice the safety glasses and respirator. REMEMBER TO WORK SAFELY!!! You only get two eyes and two lungs so take good care of them!

[knifemaker3]

That's all for today!

[Ringmaster]

Bravo Craig !

That cedar-lined shop must be a nice place to work. Keep up the good work, and continue to show your progress, please.

Take Care,
JR

[knifemaker3]

Good Day all!

Next thing to do before heattreating the blade is to drill any holes needed. Once it's hardened and tempered it's a real bear to drill the holes.

Here I'm finishing up a hole to hold for pins for the bolsters. I usually JB weld and pin the bolsters on. I used to solder and pin but have since found out that you can get the same thing with the jb weld and pins. This way you just wipe off the jb weld before it hardens and you don't have to spend any time at all cleaning up the joint.

For this knife I'm using 1/8 pins for the handles and 1/16 pins for the bolsters. TIP: Use the next size number drill to make the hole slightly larger to make it easier to push in the pins. The alternative to this is to ream the hole with the correct size reamer although occasionally I've found that it still needs to be slightly bigger for some pin material.

I used a size #30 for the 1/8 pins and #52 for the 1/16.

[knifemaker3]

Next, I flat sand the sides on 60 paper and a granite plate to remove any burrs left from drilling

Then, I apply dykem layout fluid and mark where the plunge cut goes on both sides. This gives me a good reference to go by when sanding. I grind freehand without the help of the rest on a grinder. So, it's easier to have a reference line to go buy at least for me.

I also coat the edge of the blade, measure the thickness, and mark the center line of the edge. I use my sherline mini mill and a dremel cutoff wheel to do this. Measure the thickness of the steel, divide by 2, and you now know where center is. On the mill lower the cutoff wheel to the table and then using the micrometer readings on the mill, raise to the center measurement. Don't forget to measure the cutoff wheel and adjust how far you raise it to ensure you are dead on center on not a few thousandths off. Then simply turn the mill on and run the edge of the knife against the cutoff wheel. I do it once, flip the knife over and do it again. This will help line it up should you be off just a little.

[knifemaker3]

Next, I rough grind the blade bevels in. I like doing it this way as soft steel is a whole lot easier to grind than hard steel. Belts last longer this way. The key is, leave plenty of sacrificial material for regrinding later. Here I'm starting to grind. Notice you can see the layout lines.

Grinding a blade freehand is a lesson all in itself. I learned this when first starting out as a necessity. My first homemade grinder didn't have a work rest.

I will try and explain how I grind:

I grind with the edge of the knife facing upwards like in the picture. This knife will have a flat grind, so here I'm using the flat platen on the grinder. If hollowing grinding I use the contact wheel. With either method I visualize a center line on either the wheel or platen. While grinding I try to keep the edge of the blade on that center line. With this knife it's easy because of the straight edge. With a curved blade it gets harder. Just try and keep the edge on the center line. Move the handle of the knife up or down to keep the edge on center.

Another thing I worry about is thumb placement. Depending on where I'm concentrating on grinding will determine where I place my thumb. The placements are this:

1. Towards the edge of the blade.

2 Midsection of blade.

3. Towards the spind of the blade.

When I first start out grinding, I place my thumb in postion 1. I also start at a 45 degrees angle. This starts the grind right on the edge of the blade. Then I start dropping the angle to start raising the height of the grind. I do this by thumb placement in #2 postion. Then, to keep the edge from getting too thin, I place thumbs in #3 postion. This will further raise the height of the grind. I hope this makes some sort of sense. I have a hard time explaining what I mean.

Keep the blade cool while grinding even thought it's not tempered yet. Grinding puts lots of stresses in the steel and there is no need to compound the problem by getting the steel too hot.

A note about the plunge cut. I start grinding a little ahead of the plunge cut area. This way I can work the blade backwards to meet the layout line for the plunge cut. This is easier for me. You can clamp a guide on the blade and use that to file in your plunge cuts. Whatever works the best for you is how you should do it. Sometimes I will use a file to refine the plunge cuts. But, I just do it freehand.

Also, a plunge cut with a small radius is better than a 90 degree angle. A sharp 90 degree angle looks cool but it gives a stress point that is likely to break should the knife be used to pry with. I know you ain't supposed to pry with a knife, but when doing some chores like field dressing an animal or something you pry a lot of times and don't even realize it. A radius at the plunge cut will help keep it from snapping there.

[knifemaker3]

Here is the rough ground blade ready for heat treatment.

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It has been ground down to a 100 grit. I have left plenty of sacrificial material to regind after hardening and tempering.

Next, the blade will be heated to 1860 degrees. It will be held at that temperature for 30 minutes, and then taking out of the kiln and air quenched. This blade is 440c stainless, so it can be either air quenched or oil quenched. Air is a lot cleaner of a quench so I air quench 440c.

After quenching, the internal stresses in the steel need to be relieved. I temper the knife at 400 degrees for 1 hour, let cool until you can hold it in your bare hands, and then temper again at 400 degrees for 1 hour. This should give me a blade with a hardness of 57-59 on the Rockwell C scale. For this steel this gives you good edge retention, and toughness in the blade.

[knifemaker3]

Hey Hot tempered steel, did you get the reply to your pm? Just wanted to make sure.!

[gmusic]

I'm gleaning some good stuff here.........................................keep-um coming!

[knifemaker3]

Hey Guys,
Took the day off today. Hurt my back yesterday and went to the Chiropractor today. Thought I'd rest it this afternoon so I don't throw it out again.

Will work again on the tutorial knife tomorrow.

Later!

[philco]

Take care Craig.

Hope you are feeling better soon.

Phil

[knifemaker3]

Made it to the shop this afternoon.

Here is the knife after heat treat and temper.

Next, I clean the scale off with a 36 grit belt. Then I test on my hardness tester. I have a hand held tester I bought several years ago on Ebay. Here I'm getting ready to test for hardness.

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This blade test at 59 on the Rockwell C scale.

Next, starting with 100 grit, I start finish grinding the knife. At this stage, I only need to grind enough material off to get the knife to it's final dimensions, clean off any remaining scale, and refine the plunge cut.

After the 100 grit, move to 220, 320, and 400 making sure to get the previous grits erased. I will grind at a slightly different angle to make certain I am getting rid of the previous grit.

[knifemaker3]

This is what it looks like when you let the thumb slip onto the 36 grit belt while grinding. The grinder eats fingerprints really well

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This happened while cleaning off the heat treat scale and before I tested the blade for hardness. A little Hydrogen pyroxide, rubbing alchol, a bandaid, some duct tape, and I was ready to grind again!

This is why I stress safety. It doesn't take but a split second and you can receive some pretty serious injuries in this business. So be careful!

Well, I also started the brass bolsters but haven't taken pics yet of them. I'll try and get to the shop tomorrow and work more and post tomorrow night. If not, see you all Monday! Have a good one!

[Rupe]

Great tutorial and on such a nice shop! Thank you much.

Next, the blade will be heated to 1860 degrees. It will be held at that temperature for 30 minutes, and then taking out of the kiln and air quenched. This blade is 440c stainless, so it can be either air quenched or oil quenched. Air is a lot cleaner of a quench so I air quench 440c.

Please forgive what is probably a silly question, but, could you explain "Air quench"?
Is the blade just allowed to cool or is a compressed air or gas used to speed the cooling process?

Thank you.

[knifemaker3]

Next, the blade will be heated to 1860 degrees. It will be held at that temperature for 30 minutes, and then taking out of the kiln and air quenched. This blade is 440c stainless, so it can be either air quenched or oil quenched. Air is a lot cleaner of a quench so I air quench 440c.

Please forgive what is probably a silly question, but, could you explain "Air quench"?
Is the blade just allowed to cool or is a compressed air or gas used to speed the cooling process?

Thank you.[/quote]

The blade is just allowed to cool after removal from the kiln. Some makers use a fan blowing on the steel to help it cool quicker, I've just never had to do that to get good results in my shop. Remember, anything you read is just guidelines. You may have to tweak them to make it work in your situation. What works for me in my shop may result differently if tried in someone elses. There is not just one way to make a knife. Experiment and use what works best for you in your shop.

To those who have been watching this tutorial, I apologize for not posting the last couple of days. I've been busy and haven't had time to get to the shop. Hope to make it out there today since it's turned cold here in Southern Missouri and I won't be able to work outside.

[Ringmaster]

Hey Craig,

Have you ever tried plate-quenching your 440 ? I've never done it myself, but some makers promote that technique, most often used with A-2, I think ?

Be careful today,
JR

[knifemaker3]

JR, I haven't tried that but I have heard about it. Like I said there are different ways to get the job done. I have even successfully hardened blades in my propane forge even though they say it can't be done because of the 30 minutes hold cycle at 1850 degrees. I done it with the forge, got it to temp with a tempil indicator stick, quenched in oil, tempered at 225 for 2 hours twice, and the blades test at 58C rockwell. But, I ain't going to promote that as I haven't done any testing to make sure they hold up as well as How I heat treat in a kiln. I have the book The Handforged Knife by Karl Schroen and he tells how to heat treat and temper stainless steels in a coal forge.

I'm a firm believer in the phrase "What work for you in your shop is the best way for you to do it".

The guys with science degrees may disagree, but oh well.

[knifemaker3]

Next, decide what the bolsters will look like on the finished knife. Take the brass barstock or whatever material used, and lay it out with layout fluid or sharpie marker.

Cut the pieces out and sand to shape. Also, I make sure that the back where the handle material will butt up against the bolster material is a perfect 90 degrees angle. This way there will be no gaps when fitting the handle material. Sometimes I use a 45 degree angle when using dovetailed bolsters.

Next, layout all items needed to attach the bolsters to the knife.

Here, I'm using the JB Weld and pins method to attach the bolsters. I also solder the bolsters with silver solder and pins, but I like JB Weld better as you don't have to worry about losing temper in the blade from the heat and it cleans up by simply wiping with a rag and acetone.

Prefit and clamp everything together to make sure everything is properly aligned and fits. Be sure to leave enough pin material sticking out on both sides to pean the pins later! Then, I mix the JB Weld per instructions, coat the bolsters, and clamp everything together. The JB Weld that oozes out from under the bolsters is simply wiped off with a paper towel. I let it stand in the clamps for 4-6 hours before working on it again.

That's all for now. Have to let the bolster dry!

[Redrummd]

What metal prep and cleanup do you do before adhering with the J B Weld? I am wondering how the epoxy get a good "bite" to grip to each side.

[knifemaker3]

Sorry, forgot to mention cleaning with acetone all contact surfaces. Writing this tutorial has made me realize just how hard it is to remember to put everything you do down in words.

Thanks for keeping me straigt redrummed!

[knifemaker3]

It's turned really chilly here, @5 above this morning and only in the teens right now. So, instead of warming up the shop to work out there today, I'm just doing what I can inside the house and making short trips out to the shop. So, there may not be very many pics, but I will explain what needs done.

I also forgot to mention that when sanding your bolsters to shape and before permenently attaching them, finish sand the front of the bolsters down to the grit you want. It's almost impossible to finish them once they are attached as you will really mesh up the finish on the blade. I sanded down to 400 grit. Brass buffs really easy and you can get a great mirror finish from 400 grit so I seldom ever take brass past this.

OK, now for today. Next, I take the knife out of the clamps, clip the pin material to where they are within an 1/8" from the bolster on both sides, and then pean the pins. I don't worry so much about chamfering the hole for the peaned pin as this is just to give added support to the jb welded bolsters. It may be overkill to pin with the jb weld but I don't want a knife coming back with a bolster knocked off either. So, this is the method I use. I also pin when soldering which makes a much stronger joint. If the knife is a heavy utility style or camp style blade that will be subjected to serious use, I will solder and pin to make as strong a joint as possible. NOTE: I only use the jb weld with pins method when using jb weld. I don't trust just the jb weld alone to hold the bolster. When soldering, you can just use solder and no pins, but I still pin just for added security.

Once that is done, I sand the pins flush and then prepare the handle material. In this case it will be stabilized black walnut. I sand the handle material flat on the bottom and also the front where the handle will meet the bolster. I check as I sand to make sure the handle material meets the handle and bolster with no gaps.

Then I lay out everything I need.

I dry fit and clamp everything together. Then lay it out to prepare for epoxying the handle on. I use Devcon 2 ton epoxy. I feel it holds a little better than the 5 minute stuff. Wipe all mating surfaces with acetone including the handle material, tang, and bolster. Mix epoxy per instructions, coat ALL surfaces and clamp.

TIP: I use disposable latex gloves when epoxying to keep the stuff off my hands. I hate cleaning epoxy off the hands!

I only glue 1 side at a time. I glue and clamp, let dry, and then drill all the holes in the knife handle. If it's not done this way you cannot find your holes to drill them out!

That's all for now. I have 1 side clamped and drying. After I have both sides done, I will start again with pin placement. Until then, have a good day!